GL1100 charging issues

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HEY CROWE!!! HELLO NEIGHBOR!!! If you travel through RLB much you may see me outside "tooling" on the Wing. I live right on Cedar Lake Rd. I've seen some threads on the 3 yellow wires testing, but can never find the one I want when I need it! Later neighbor!
 
rolson7560":3w3qyf2t said:
OOOO'TAY! I just checked the "3 yellow wires" from the stator. I'm pretty certain it was the stator connector since the ires went down and back, (the top connector went up and left). Anyway, I got 55.9 volts AC checking each blade, (wire in the connector). A>B, B>C, A>C. I then checked continuity, and got none from any wire to the engine block. I'm assuming this means the STATOR IS GOOD? Are there any other tests to do on the stator?
Sounds like the stator is healthy and the regulator is doing the job. On board meter sound a little iffy though.
 
Well, I rode her into work this morning, (42.5 miles). I was getting a steady 14.8 at 3,000 rpm, and 12.8 at idle. This is what I used to get when things were "healthy". (keep in mind, this is the readout from the dash volt meter). It's suppose to reach near 100 drgrees today in Chi-town so we'll see how the old girl fares on the way home.
NOTE: for novices like me using a multi-meter, I have a lesson that I learned yesterday. Most of you may already know this, but for those of us new at using the meters, there are 2 different VOLT settings. AC volts and DC volts. When testing the stator, you need to be using the AC volt setting. Reason is, the stator puts out AC volts, the Regulator Rectifier converts it to DC volts. Since you are testing before the R/R you need to test AC volts. The way you tell the difference on your meter is, the V, (volt icon) will be followed by 1 or 2 STRAIGHT lines, while the AC icon will be followed by a "squiggly" line, (symbol above the apostrophe on a keyboard).
I'll let you know how the ride home went later...thanks, rolson7560
 
Good point!! I was testing my R/R one day, was blindsided by something while doing so. Hooked it back-up, turned key on....POOF....FFFFFFFFFFFTTTTTTTTTT. I literally let he smoke out! Had aluminum shooting out from the spark units.
 
rolson7560":18iwmfn1 said:
NOTE: for novices like me using a multi-meter, I have a lesson that I learned yesterday. Most of you may already know this, but for those of us new at using the meters, there are 2 different VOLT settings. AC volts and DC volts. When testing the stator, you need to be using the AC volt setting. Reason is, the stator puts out AC volts, the Regulator Rectifier converts it to DC volts. Since you are testing before the R/R you need to test AC volts. The way you tell the difference on your meter is, the V, (volt icon) will be followed by 1 or 2 STRAIGHT lines, while the AC icon will be followed by a "squiggly" line, (symbol above the apostrophe on a keyboard).


click for larger image
 
Well...I made it home, and the old girl started right up after shutting it off in the driveway! WOOT WOOT!!! Leaving work I was getting 14.8, but after about 12 miles it slipped down to between 12.5 and 13.5, then eventually it stayed under 13. The heat is DEFINITELY a factor in my charging system. Now that I know thast, i'll throw a battery tender on it on the really hot days, otherwise, I should be good!
Steps I took...1...CLEANED ALL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS 2...REPAIRED BURNT WIRE ON THE R/R SIDE OF THE CONNECTOR. 3...REPAIRED THE STUD GOING INTO THE STARTER(loose and arching). 4...TESTED STATOR AND FOUND TO BE GOOD. 5... CLEANED THE GROUND CONNECTION TO THE FRAME, (noticed a steadier charge after this step). 6...(probably the most help), INSTALLED A NEW BATTERY. I DID NOT THINK MY AGM BATTERY WAS BAD AT ONLY 2 YEARS OLD, BUT IT APPARENTLY WASN'T PULLING IT'S WEIGHT.
THANKS AGAIN for all the help!!!
 

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