Gl1100 fork seals etc.

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dan filipi

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1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
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After I get the 1200 engine installed I'm pulling the fairing to check it over for cracks and going to do forks seals at that time.

What all do I need to do fork seals 'right'?
Trying to budget the cost also.
Seals for sure. Are there bushings that should be replaced? I Already have Progressive springs.
 
When I did mine, I replaced everything: bushings, snap rings, back-up rings, etc. I ordered it all so I had the parts on hand when I was ready to go to work on them because i wasn't sure what I was going to need. All totaled it cost me $120.00. Looking back now, I would not have needed to replace the back-up rings, snap rings, and bushings as these parts were still in good condition but I figured that since I had the parts, I may as well use them.
 
Each fork has an upper and lower bushing. If you see copper on the wear surfraces, they need to be replaced. You might also want to look at the TRAC boots, and there's a rubber-covered washer inside that gets distorted, which messes up the anti-dive function. When I checked last year, the parts were available at several sources. I haven't done mine yet...
 
If you look in the gallery at the 1100 workshop manual you will find the procedures and limits!! :smilie_happy:

If that fails Dan give Steve a call and ask for a hand :yes:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=113221#p113221:2dq2uurt said:
Ansimp » Wed Mar 26, 2014 4:16 pm[/url]":2dq2uurt]
If you look in the gallery at the 1100 workshop manual you will find the procedures and limits!! :smilie_happy:

That right there is funny!

I forgot you have an 83 with the anti-dive. Not sure how that stuff differs.

Reading through the manual again, I don't see any limits for the bushings or the sleeves. I know when I tore apart the forks on the 1000 I was working on, I knew they were bad without even looking anything up in the book.

Oh yeah, one is copper and one appears to be steel, so you can usually assume the copper slider bushing is the one that would need to be changed.
 
I just got me a set from Great Balls, i need to change mine too. If my seals are not showing a great deal of wear and maybe just a little surface wear, i'm going back with everything. I'm going to put progressives in mine as well. I'm just going to change the oil, put the new seals in place, and clean the tubes out( i got mine seals from Great Balls). I would check for pits on your slider tubes, you may have to do a little sanding in some spots..and use 5000 grit or something higher. The one thing i can tell you is, when you get ready to get that bottom bolt out under the fork tube...make sure you have a tight fit in the allen head with the correct size....and if you have an impact..i would use it to remove it as these are put in with lock thread. The first good jolt, should break it lose, then remove by hand. I'm just giving my 2 cents worth...you may find doing something different for yours is best.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=113221#p113221:3nxrjyfy said:
Ansimp » Wed Mar 26, 2014 2:16 pm[/url]":3nxrjyfy]
If you look in the gallery at the 1100 workshop manual you will find the procedures and limits!! :smilie_happy:

If that fails Dan give Steve a call and ask for a hand :yes:
Yeah I guess all the times I've looked up the info needed by others in the manuals has gotten me somewhat burned out at looking for it.
But like Brian said, he's not finding in the manuals what I was asking.
I'm just trying to gather all the info I can before starting it so I can go straight through tear down, pop out, install, to avoid any surprises.
 
Most cases the bushes are okay, you just need to look for excessive wear and check the condition of the tubes. IME you change a lot of seals before you change any bushes, just remember to polish up the tubes like mirrors for long wearing seals
 

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