gl1100 rear brake master cyl options "those are rare hard to find parts"

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lotsa folks seem to believe you must stick with original stuff but that would be one jumbo m/c change for the 1100 (from gl18) for rear braking only, no less and the ride report was fine, i could easily see how a change might be better, if not just for personal preferences, 'course could go the other way too

i'm not aware of any info regarding upgrading a linked 83 MC, though i have seen a few de-link and use earlier 80-2 MCs
 
The Gl1800 Rear Pedal Brake master cyl. Piston size difference is.

The GL1800 is only .050 larger than my 83' GL1100.

This should only be a very slight difference, in power, but will be a brake boost, if even detectable.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99733#p99733:1w6wt0tf said:
westgl » Sat Oct 12, 2013 2:17 pm[/url]":1w6wt0tf]
The Gl1800 Rear Pedal Brake master cyl. Piston size difference is.

The GL1800 is only .050 larger than my 83' GL1100.

but on the 83, the MC goes thru a Y splitter/pressure regulator proportioning gizmo for 1 front and back,

whereas the gl18 uses a primary & secondary MC something deal, i think they each work diff wheels

i'd certainly try out the gl18 MC on the 83 linked setup, i'd think that less a risk than using it only for the rear wheel that has been done and is in use
 
I rebuilt my Rear brake master on my 83' GL1100, but had the leak down, it was a very slow leak down, but if that M. cyl comes apart.

That would be a very fast leak down, that i probably would not be ready for.

I will switch out the Rear M. cyl. to the GL18 unit and leave them Linked, so that I can try to see if there are any negatives.

Brakes On my GL1100 are excellent, everything rebuild or new, including all S.S. brake Lines.

The thought of a safety part, coming undone, while riding.

Especially knowing how much faster my GL11 is with the new Single carb conversion.

A brake upgrade, for safety reasons is in order.
 
I am not going to touch the splitter, on my GL11

I will just take the s.s. brake line off the GL11 brake master, and connect that brake line to the new GL18 B. Master Cyl.


[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99734#p99734:ftndwzpg said:
82a » Sat Oct 12, 2013 11:23 am[/url]":ftndwzpg]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99733#p99733:ftndwzpg said:
westgl » Sat Oct 12, 2013 2:17 pm[/url]":ftndwzpg]
The Gl1800 Rear Pedal Brake master cyl. Piston size difference is.

The GL1800 is only .050 larger than my 83' GL1100.

but on the 83, the MC goes thru a Y splitter/pressure regulator proportioning gizmo for 1 front and back,

whereas the gl18 uses a primary & secondary MC something deal, i think they each work diff wheels
 
if it turns out to be too touchy, you can always go to something smaller or more suitable sizewise

the key here is that the mount problem has been solved and there are a ton of MCs out there that are similar, in that they have mounting holes only on one side, rather than both sides like the original
 
The main thing is to Make sure that you have a straight direct shot from master to Brake pedal.

You dont want any angles.

I want to take as much of the slop or slack out of the pedal as possible, while still being safe.
 
If to touchy

There is also the thought of changing the Brake bias of the brake power from the front brake to more rear bias
 
They do have residual valves also, they will only allow a small amount of bleed back by the brake system that they are hooked up to.

this keeps the fluid at the brake, with only a very slight bleed back, (so that the brake is not locked on) this is so you do Not have to push fluid a long distance, brake performance can be Enhanced, if to much bleed back is experienced
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99740#p99740:2anu77an said:
westgl » Sat Oct 12, 2013 2:34 pm[/url]":2anu77an]
If to touchy

There is also the thought of changing the Brake bias of the brake power from the front brake to more rear bias
i don't think the original 83 is adjustable but i have seen it for cars where it can be spliced in a steel line
 
I have a 2-LB residual valve on my GL1500 Trike, as it would have too much bleed back causing the rear brakes to be almost non existant
 
I guess, when i start this project.

I can do a write up on it.

If nothing else, to talk about the Pro & Cons.
 
Yep that is what I was thinking, you could change the front to rear bias, easily, if the front was too powerful.

But I think it will be fine.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99746#p99746:spg0m5jv said:
Dusterdude » Sat Oct 12, 2013 11:45 am[/url]":spg0m5jv]
An adjustable proportioning valve would be a big help with this
 
Ok just pulled off the seat and faux tank

Looks like I may have to change the Brake line in to GL18 brake master.

From the rear splitter, left side, front of rear wheel, to the new rear brake master

I have used the soft/ridged brake lines from Napa, they work Great!!

They are a ridged brake line that are soft enough to bend them by hand, without kinking,
You can make any shape ridged brake line you want.

I just have to measure the overall length, and verify the fitting size at both ends, they come in many different lengths and different fittings on each end.

They are very reasonably priced too.
 
Ok Bellboy just replied again showing a link to a diagram of the GL18 brake system.

And i am remembering more of that GL18 braking system than i want to.

I remember the secondary Brake master now,

That was a Honda abortion.

Honda dose not make a lot of mistakes.

But when they do they do it big.

I had to make a block off plate to disable a plunger that the secondary brake master, used for fork anti Dive, as it caused a suspension travel problem, and made the front suspension very HARD!! and uncomfortable, and handling would go to crap when that happened.

There is also a Delay valve built into the brake line, probably to reduce front bias brake power some.
 
The delay is on all braking from the Rear foot pedal, to all pistons going to the front brakes.

So i will have to see how much extra power it has going to the front.

If it is typical Honda, they go really safe, and may not be a issue.

But we will see
 

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