GL1100 tear down

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mr moe

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Oct 24, 2016
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Location
Cambridge, Ontario
Tank's out. Cap and seal seem all right.
Sending unit looks good and tests out OK.
Screens are rusted off the pickup tubes.
Poured about a cup of rust and debris out onto floor.
This tank will need some serious cleaning.

Got the rest of the plastics off
Long day
 
Yes indeed good days work. Product called Evaporust works well. Some prefer vinegar or muriatic acid.
 
Love the way my 1200's tank's looked , & still look years later, with the muriatic acid treatment. Make sure you wear good eye protection, as well as breathing protection for the acid treatment. When the yellow fumes stop, all the sides, as top well are boiled clean. Dump,rinse very well with HOT WATER, dump all the hot water, dump in several ounces of trans fluid to coat it well till it's back in and full of fuel.Stored mine full of treated fuel every fall for the winter, & the tanks still look great inside.
 
Do you need to fill it full of acid, or just a bit and shake it around?


Did compression test -- 75, 79, 80, 95
Leak down test tells me that all valves are leaking.

Heads came off next.
Valves are all pitted and rusted, one exhaust is seized.
New valves and guides.

And the guy told me it just needed battery and a tune up to get it started :good
But what do you expect for$300.00.
Later
 
That's a pretty good indication it may be an "ALL ORIGINAL, NON MOLESTED BARN FIND" :hihihi:The same gallon of acid did all three of my 1200 gas tank's :good:
 
Hey Mr. Moe! Looking at your pictures, I want to give you a heads up that your stator plug is melted in this picture. You have have already seen that, but I would not want you to miss this. With the plug in that condition, your stator will not work correctly, battery will not charge and the electrical system will be compromised.

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Many will suggest to cut the plug off, solder the three yellow wires and heat shrink wrap on the connection. While that is a very good choice and it will solve the issue, it becomes a new issue if you have to pull the engine for any reason and cut the wires again. I replaced my connector with a new 3 wire connector and filled the back with dielectric grease to keep the moisture out (which is why these plugs fail in the first place).

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Good eyes Gerry:
I had all ready found that, when plug would not separate.
Lots of challenges on this bike.
More to come i'm sure.

Valves, guides, seals, timing belts and gasket kit on the way.
Will be another busy weekend.
 
Electricly the stator checks out, we'll get a new connector on it out and hope for the best

Two questions:
Should there be plastic caps on these?
 

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We all know what a hose clamp looks for our bikes looks like.
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Have you ever seen a rubber cover that covers the mechanical components?
 

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=186757#p186757:1k8hmtat said:
mr moe » Wed Feb 08, 2017 10:07 pm[/url]":1k8hmtat]
Have you ever seen a rubber cover that covers the mechanical components?

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Yes! That clamp should be the top hose clamp on the radiator. The rubber cover protects the clamp from contact with the frame and vice/versa.
 
None on my 1200's, or any of the 1100's i've owned, or worked on. :nea: Nice feature to put onto the clamp, :yes: never saw them before. :read:
 
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