I'm back with a new PVC intake

[Dusterdude]

slabghost » Fri Mar 25, 2016 9:26 pm[/url]":1snkzf9l]
Could it be done in a flexible plastic that could be rolled and shipped in a tube? Shipping would be a lot less. And I expect the material costs would also be lower.

Anything that flexible couldn't be made by the method I used. BUT.... I can print a 1:1 template with dimensions on 18 x 24 paper, fold it, and send it. You can transfer it to plywood on your end. Would that work? That would only cost a couple bucks each and could mail first class.

Also, mine is steel but though aluminum costs more it's a third the weight. I'd have to run the numbers to see which is cheaper- steel and heavy to ship or more expensive aluminum but less to ship.

Good idea there

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[ekvh]

Stroke is 5mm longer, so width would 10mm longer, but I think it's actually only about 9 mm because the Pistons come out of the block about 0.040". I think the bolt pattern, or angle the bolt holes are drilled at, is slightly different too, but close enough.

 

[chuck c]

Now it really looks like plumbing parts. There is still a section of tube in there to hold alignment and for smooth flow but it's short and not tight so it can side a bit. I can already see it will be much easier to install this way. I will need to add something to brace the carb because the manifold won't be solid.

I picked up that rubber reducer thinking it might be helpful with mounting the carb flange. Not sure exactly how to do that just yet. For simplicity I may go with steel tube and flange and get them welded. I've been trying to stay away from welding and metal fabbing because my whole idea was to make something anyone with basic tools could do.

 

[joedrum]

looking good opcorn:

 

[chuck c]

I just ordered more parts. I need 2 more 45's to finish what I've done so far. While poking around I found an adapter that brings the 2" od down to 1.625" od. Guess what the id of the Mikuni boots is? @1.66"! They should fit perfectly and I won't have to make 4 special parts! :Egyptian: If they work it means it's all very easy to put together, just cut a few pieces of tubing to length. The only part that will require some fabbing will be the carb flange. When done I will include a full parts list.

 

[slabghost]

Probably easiest to just glue the carb flange on. cpvc will take both very hot and very cold and stay together.

 

[chuck c]

Not so simple. The flange for the Solex can't be much different shape than the carb's because parts of the Solex stick down below the plane of it's flange. That carb won't sit flat on a table. It has studs going down that use nuts from below to bolt it down. It has to be on a short straight section tall enough to get underneath it and get the nuts on the studs.

 

[chuck c]

chuck c » Sat Mar 26, 2016 10:16 pm[/url]":dldqd6f9]
Not so simple. The flange for the Solex can't be much different shape than the carb's because parts of the Solex stick down below the plane of it's flange. That carb won't sit flat on a table. It has studs going down that use nuts from below to bolt it down. It has to be on a short straight section tall enough to get underneath it and get the nuts on the studs.

Got me thinking now that if the plate the carb's screwed to is removable from the manifold, it could simplify things a bit. I could assemble the carb to it's flange, then plug that into the 2" opening of the manifold and seal it. It might work. The big negative is it puts the nuts inside the manifold, and if they fell off they would do great evil to my engine. It's possible to add a screen to catch anything loose in that area but the risk is still there, and I know my luck. If Murphy can get me, he will.

 

[chuck c]

The additional parts came today. Good news: the 2 45s complete the runners and that part is done. Bad news: the reducers that made me :Egyptian: will not reduce enough to go into the Mikuni boots. I will still have to do some lathe work to bridge that last inch. Hopefully I can knock those out tomorrow.

I also got an end cap which just might make mounting the carb easier. It's nice and flat unlike sched 40 caps. It seems to take all the space between the studs in the carb and doesn't leave enough room to turn nuts on them. It will still need a short neck to make enough room for that but it will be more solid than that rubber reducer.

 

[chuck c]

Refill your popcorn, boys.
While I really wanted to avoid using tools or skills that most people don't have access to, I also want to ride the darned thing, so I resorted to using a lathe to make the last parts and get this project moving.

These are the adapters from the 2" ID pipe to the Mikuni carb boots. The heavy part is an adapter that goes from the 2" id to 1-5/8" (1.625). I cut regular sched 40 pipe to press fit into that and the other side to the 1.57" to go into the boots. I even took time to taper them a bit to improve flow in the transition.

 

[chuck c]

For the carb, I bored the flat cap and turned a piece of sched 40 pipe to press in. I will cement the old flange from the previous experiment to that. Nice thing about this is I can bolt the carb to the flange on the workbench then just put the whole assembly on the manifold with a bit of sealant so it can be easily removed, too. Getting those nuts on the studs is a bit of a pain on the bike. If vibration and heat loosen it I will deal with that then.

That bit of metal you see is the throttle cable holder.

 

[dan filipi]

Looking good.

 

[Dusterdude]

Can i guess the mikuni adapters fit the head ok?

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[chuck c]

Dusterdude » Sat Apr 02, 2016 4:08 pm[/url]":a1z4xhm7]
Can i guess the mikuni adapters fit the head ok?

Yup. The Wing's bolt holes are slightly offset from the center line with the port by 1.5 or 2mm but the holes in the boot are in line. Luckily the bolt holes in the boot are for a larger screw than the wing's intakes use. With a flat washer it still works. The port diameter is identical. It's hard to tell they weren't made for the job. Those were a really good find.

 

[Ansimp]

+1 :good:

 

[Dusterdude]

I just might try those on my new intake build

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[chuck c]

Dusterdude » Sat Apr 02, 2016 6:06 pm[/url]":2r5l7vrw]
I just might try those on my new intake build

Here's the part number. Mikuni 002-053 VM34/200-1 60mm hole spacing 34mm bore 40mm/1.575" inlet. I've seen them priced from $23 to $33.

https://www.mikunioz.com/product/i-vm34- ... t-centres/

 

[chuck c]

I used the car/truck/motorcyle man's secret weapon- JB Weld- to attach the carb mount parts this afternoon. It's sitting in the warmth on top of the boiler where it's a cozy 90-95 degrees to help it cure since the house is a bit cool tonight. That stuff is impossible to keep neat but it can be sanded and filed to make it look better. Of course it would have done a better looking job if I had done one end and let it set fully before flipping it to do the other......

All parts are done. Tomorrow, first test assembly on the bike. If that goes smoothly, I may even fire it up. What am I saying!? Of course I'm going to try to start it!

 

[Denver]

Good luck :good:

 

[chuck c]

It's ready to go on! Note I raised the carb mount high and to the side so I don't need to worry about water getting in when fording a stream. The other inlet will be great for spraying in ether to keep it running so I don't have to adjust the carb properly.