info needed on changing rear tire

[oldmopars]

Well, my rear tire is done, worn out completely. I am ordering a front and rear set and want to be sure that I get everything put back right. I pulled the tire off and kept everything together as I pulled it off, I think.
Is there a picture, diagram, how-to etc? I would rather know I am putting it back together right the first time then to have to pull it back apart.
I would like to clean up the spacers and shaft, but I am afraid I may mix things up and want to be able to put it back right.
Any help would be great. So far no luck finding it on any of the How-to lists.

 

[zman]

Well there is this from another forum, Hope it is OK to post here.
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=73

 

[dan filipi]

That's a good tutorial except I have lost all faith in Honda's 'Genuine Moly 60 paste' because after only a few thousand miles the splines on mine were dry as a bone and the stuff seems to liquify and run out.

A better grease in my strong opinion is this variety, some moly and sticky to stay put https://www.google.com/shopping/product ... OICEKkrMBE

 

[zman]

LPS makes some good grease, seems to have about a 50 degree higher rating then average moly. I would suspect the others were reaching their limts combined with the constant shocks of road travel and it just displaces the stuff.
Curious about other moly and synthetic greases out there, synthetic is about a 500 degree rating and says superior to moly.Need to do some research but it appears a higher heat range is going to give better results.

 

[sgq700]

because after only a few thousand miles the splines on mine were dry as a bone and the stuff seems to liquify and run out..... WOW, You dated her too :shock:

 

[Steve83]

D'oh!!!!

 

[brianinpa]

Maybe I get hung up on technicalities but I have note found a reference to moly 60 paste in the Honda Manual. All I find is:

Apply a lithium based multipurpose NLGI No. 2 (MOS2 additive) grease to the damper pins, the final drive splines, and inside the final driven flange.

GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 14-12

• WindNWing
• Oct 16, 2012

Could it be that Mother Honda wants to make an extra few bucks off of those small tubes of Moly 60 Paste?

 

[Omega Man]

Hmmm...I'm surprised Joel wasn't ALL OVER this thread, go figure. :headscratch: :hihihi: :whistling:

~O~

 

[brianinpa]

Omega Man » Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:53 pm[/url]":2me11z2c]
Hmmm...I'm surprised Joel wasn't ALL OVER this thread, go figure. :headscratch: :hihihi: :whistling:

~O~

Are you saying that he has more practice than others? :shock:

 

[Omega Man]

brianinpa » Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:57 pm[/url]":rsuj4fcc]

Omega Man » Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:53 pm[/url]":rsuj4fcc]
Hmmm...I'm surprised Joel wasn't ALL OVER this thread, go figure. :headscratch: :hihihi: :whistling:

~O~

Are you saying that he has more practice than others? :shock:

ayup! :smilie_happy:

~O~

 

[dan filipi]

brianinpa » Sat Mar 29, 2014 5:46 pm[/url]":6m6g7oni]
Maybe I get hung up on technicalities but I have note found a reference to moly 60 paste in the Honda Manual. All I find is:

Apply a lithium based multipurpose NLGI No. 2 (MOS2 additive) grease to the damper pins, the final drive splines, and inside the final driven flange.

GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 14-12

• WindNWing
• Oct 16, 2012

Could it be that Mother Honda wants to make an extra few bucks off of those small tubes of Moly 60 Paste?

Yep, and a contagious rumor that it's required.

 

[oldmopars]

Thank you for everyones input, this really helps.

 

[AApple]

Omega Man » Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:53 pm[/url]":3gdnn9cn]
Hmmm...I'm surprised Joel wasn't ALL OVER this thread, go figure. :headscratch: :hihihi: :whistling:

~O~

:cheeky: :cheeky: :cheeky: :smilie_happy:

Well alrite then...here's my take....
The link above shows pulling the entire diff/wheel assembly on an earlier model bike. I don't pull the whole shooting match just to change a tire.....thass just silly. First, let the air out of both the tire and the suspension. Remove the all of the tupperware stuff from the rear, and the trunk mount/grab bar stuff, since you'll need to swing the rear fender up. If you have a light bar around the trunk and/or saddlebags, you'll need to remove those as well as the center section of the rear "bumper". Once all of that is gone, remove the brake caliper & pads, then the one bolt holding the caliper bracket on the top. Then remove the cotter pin and the axle nut on the right side, and the pinch bolt for the axle on the left side swing arm. Wedge a large screwdriver into the slot on the left side of the swing arm to loosen the grip on the axle, then gently tap the axle out to the left. It will eventually stop when it gets to the exhaust. I use a large prybar to raise the swing arm enough to slide the axle right past, and out. There is a flat washer that sits against the caliper bracket that will come off, and a spacer that fits up inside the wheel. Once the axle is out, wiggle the tire/wheel to the left, and fish it out. Change the tire, and reassemble in reverse order, making sure the spacer and flat washer are in the proper locations. Grease the splines on the drive hub, before re-assembly, of course. Be sure to air up the suspension when finished, if your's does not have the on-board compressor. I change my own tires, too, using Dyna Beads for balancing. There is another thread here on how I change the tires, if your interested. Not really all that detailed tho, iirc, but it gives the basics.
What type of lube has been discussed already....the moly lube I've been using is crap...it slings off too easily. I'm of a notion that a heavy dooty wheel bearing grease would work just as well, and stay put.
:good:
There...that's how I does mine. It is still not a 30 minute job, but a naked 'Wing would be MUCH quicker....it's all the crap ya gotta take off just to get to the tire/wheel that is a pita..... :builder:

 

[mcgovern61]

No.2 marine trailer wheel bearing grease is all I use on my splines and shaft. Each time I have opened up the spline, the grease is still there and no slinging.

 

[Winger 82]

brianinpa » Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:57 pm[/url]":2x2zkhf2]

Omega Man » Sat Mar 29, 2014 7:53 pm[/url]":2x2zkhf2]
Hmmm...I'm surprised Joel wasn't ALL OVER this thread, go figure. :headscratch: :hihihi: :whistling:

~O~

Are you saying that he has more practice than others? :shock:

This could get ugly :hihihi: :hihihi: :hihihi: :hihihi: :hihihi: :hihihi:

 

[BP]

any reason why not to put this grease in the drive in place of genuine honda moly 60?

https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Perf ... 881&sr=8-1

 

[BP]

in the last rear tire change I did not put grease in the splines, how :sensored: am I?

Yep, and a contagious rumor that it's required.

does that mean I can make it until the next time I need to swap tires?

there was still a bit o grease in there but not slathered on like you see in these images https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=73 [image 38-41]
I left it just like it was [not cleaning what remained existing grease] and threw it back on because I couldn't source the moly 60 genuine honda locally.

also it seemed very clean, though admittedly a quite thin layer, nothing like that tar-stuff in image 31 from the above-linked page.

 

[brianinpa]

As far as the grease you linked to it isn'lt a lithium based grease so that would be my only concern.

How many miles do you expect to get out of the tire that you have on the bike now? 3000 to 5000 miles in one summer - you should be alright. 12000 miles over a 3 to 4 year period - I would pull the wheel off and apply some grease.

 

[dan filipi]

BP » Thu Jun 05, 2014 3:02 pm[/url]":3jtiwo40]
in the last rear tire change I did not put grease in the splines, how :sensored: am I?

Yep, and a contagious rumor that it's required.

does that mean I can make it until the next time I need to swap tires?

there was still a bit o grease in there but not slathered on like you see in these images https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=73 [image 38-41]
I left it just like it was [not cleaning what remained existing grease] and threw it back on because I couldn't source the moly 60 genuine honda locally.

also it seemed very clean, though admittedly a quite thin layer, nothing like that tar-stuff in image 31 from the above-linked page.

Well there is no way to know if there is even any grease on those splines as it is so the only way to get peace of mind is to pull the wheel, clean and grease it.
FYI, my post was in reference to Moly 60 being required on those splines.
As I find the stuff liquefies and runs out leaving the splines dry, and I am not the only one reporting this, I will not use it anymore.

 

[BP]

better choice do you think? I guess I have poor reading comprehension

https://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1918-Lit ... oly+grease

as much as I don't want to take the wheel off again, I definitely don't want to take it off again for the reason because I lost all the teeth in that final drive/hub. I installed metzeler me880 in the rear and I am not sure of the lifespan there... but since it doesn't appear that there was any generous amount of grease previously, I may as well just go ahead and remove/reinstall just one more time...