Max won't start when her motor is cold, starts fine when warm? WTF?

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chrisbags

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Hey guys,

Maxine my gl1100i will not start when the motor is cold - but when I roll start her and hold the start button she fires right up. If the motor is warm she fires right up.

She cranks fine, no chargin issues - could it be the coils or plugs? Scratching my head here. Any input would be much appreciated!!
 
Check the battery. It sounds like it's weak. Too weak the power might be enough to crank but not enough to power the coils at the same time. Once warmed the battery is of course freshly charged and motor freshly lubricated so load is less and power in battery is a little better.
 
just wondering...have you done any work to the carbs since you've had her, if not, you may need to check the sync on them. Have you sprayed any type of carb cleaner in it. IF so this is a big NO_NO, carb cleaner will seep into your air pilot valves and melt the rubber off of them, thus making it harder to start. I would take all the spark plugs out first, then put them back into your wire, lay them against the motor, turn your key on, hit the start button and see how much fire you have. if that looks good, then you probably have carb issues.
 
Thanks guys. The battery is new and I keep it on a float charger. I have not done any carb work, and I haven't sprayed any carb cleaner in the carbs. I will check the battery anyway. There is a great carb sun tutorials section so I'll try and get my hands on a sync gauge set and give that a shot too. Thanks!!
 
Kinda new to wings but could it be the accelerator pump diaphram bad or accelerator circuit clogged.
I know on some vehicles the pump is vital to cold starts and has the same symptoms.
 
Just thinking, these chokes are a muliple linkage type and can stick. If it were that it seems if you covered the air filter opening briefly and it started easier that would settle it and you could look to the choke linkage.
 
That's the funny part. Once it's warm she's totally fine. One of the carbs seems to be running a bit rich as I get some smoke on some starts, it blows itself out in 10 seconds or so, only comes out the right side exhaust. (I think the accelerator pump is on that side, is it same side as fuel pump?)

To me the really wacky thing is that if I roll her, then pop her into gear and hit the starter at the same time she fires right up. Motor turns like butter. I can hand turn it with a wrench at the back of the stator cover in neutral with no problems. The only thing that coincides with this that strikes me as possible is that I added a trunk as you can see in the pics in the gallery, it has running lights and a 12V adapter in it. It could be possible that's pulling the current down below where the coils need to be to fire properly. I checked the plugs not too long ago and they were not fouled at all. I have kept the oil changed, averaging a change every 1500 miles just due to the time it takes to ride that many. I ride a lot but mostly short hops - I'm not all that deep into motor mechanics so I'm really scratchin my head on this one. Thanks for taking the time to look at the posts though guys!
 
That's my thoughts also chris, your not getting 12v to coils on start up, which could happen thru the starting circuit from the battery thru the starter button on to the coils. Once it cranks it's going to drop the voltage down to 7 or 8 volts and run fine. See if you have 12v at the coils with the key on. You got have 12v there to crank a cold engine.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98889#p98889:2vm7mlyt said:
backlander » Mon Oct 07, 2013 12:03 pm[/url]":2vm7mlyt]
See if you have 12v at the coils with the key on. You got have 12v there to crank a cold engine.

Also need that same 12v while cranking. That's the purpose of the resistor set-up...to provide a full 12v while starting, then drop back down after it's running.

It's strange that you are saying you can push-start it while holding the start button down...why are you doing that? It should start without holding the start button down when push starting. Have you tried without the start button, and it wouldn't start, or is there some other reason for that procedure? :headscratch:
 
OK so let me ask you this - suppose I re-wire the trunk and the outlet to a switch and keep that switch turned off until I get done with the cold start. That should reduce the draw, correct? Once it's started I can just hit the switch and turn on the running lights on the trunk and get the 12V power - does the switch make any difference? Recalling what little I do of basic electrical theory my ample gut says it should help - what do you think?

Thanks,
Chris
 
Thanks guys! Stupid question - which fuse in the terminal strip in the tank shelter is the one required to leave in? If I wire the trunk running lights and 12v to a switch that stays off except after I fire it up would that help? Is there a different method to conserve cranking power?
 
If removing all the fuses get's it to start. You might want to put the ignition circuit on a relay. A nice new wire to power the coils can help a lot.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=98983#p98983:1zrfgojt said:
chrisbags » Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:06 am[/url]":1zrfgojt]
Thanks guys - is there a tutorial in the references section? Not 100% sure how that works. I know what a relay is but not sure how that would be done.
I don't think we have a tutorial, we should. But for the time being we have a diagram.

"Trigger/Kill switch" battery positive wire on 1100's is the black with a white stripe at the coils.
It's the wire that's common to both coils.

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