My first time to change my timming belt

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MCVinnie

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I have been reading littlebeaver's how to for changing the timming belt. It's an excellent article, in it he references Octane's and JoeDrum's how to's, as well. I have been searching for them but am unable to locate them. Can anyone provide me the links? Also, any advise, good, bad, ugly?

Thanks for your help
 
ok ...the 1200s are the hardest of the oldwing4 to do ... they have hydraulic lash adjuster heads and no adjustable rockers ....

take the timing covers off the front of the motor...this will involve taking the lowers fairing covers off ...to get at it belt covers....

take the valve covers off heads ...not mandatory but i do as way of checking things out good and i feel its mandatory to be ....

take the plugs out ... the rubber plug wire and caps fit right back in plug hole as cover

take the timing mark cap off top and back of motor ...rotate the motor to T1 position ..the timing mark on the cam pulleys sould be pointing at the timing mark on the back timing belt covers and the up marks on the cam pulley should be on the up side ... if marks on pulley and up mark are down rotate motor one turn around back to T1 .. this will make the marks right and up position on the top side ... check this out good ..being first time you can see how every thing lines up ...when putting new belts on T1 mark and belt mark should all line up .. up positinon on top side of pulley...

if all that looks good loosen idlers pulleys and take belts off ....

starting with inside belt ..this is the easiest one to put on .....it very easy to get the crank off T1 position so be careful... the cam pulley will have to move a bit to get belt on mark right and stay on T1 ....1200s are a pain over earlier yrs... the belt idler i usually dang near take off to get up enough to slip belt on.....

once the inside belt is on ..i usually take a jorgenson wood clamp .. and with crank at T1 clamp the cam pulley and back timing cover so things stay put and then do other side witch has to move quit a bit to get the belt on same as other side ...

of course idler pulleys should worked in place and bolted snugly .. not really tighten all the way yet ....

there is a spot on both sides where the cam is floating so to speak and is where idler should be tighten good then move motor again for the other side floating spot and tighten idler

from there rotate by hand with crank bolt clockwise ....slowly feeling for resitance .. there will be some ..but not much with plugs ... do 4 complete turns if everything seems fine ...DO IT AGAIN ...as many times you want till you are confident its not hitting anything ...check everything out good belt tension should be the same on both sides about a 1/4 " deflection

get that far post back .. and put up pics if you can ...
 
Thanks Joe, I've read everything I can find. Hope I don't miss anything, I'll let you know how it goes, might be a few days yet.
 
Thanks for everyone's help and all the great threads. The operation was a flying success! I assume I can probably find all the help for anyting I'm likely to need in the forums. Still, I think I should have a manual. I would have to buy an OEM online, are they worth the extra effort?
 
A flying success and you didn't ask about the two notches on the 1200 timing gears. You must have found info somewhere. I have a set of 1100 gears with the two marks.
 
It really wasn't too tuff to figure out, considering the different placement of the marks on the gears and how they lined up with the T1. Those type of marks are on some other vehicle timming gears, also. I don't know why they put them there, I guess theres a reason.
 

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