Need a hand again!

[TheRepoGuy]

Alright guys - Got my slave fixed and it appears to be working as it should; started the old girl up today and the light green with black tracer wire coming out of the ignition switch started to smoke. Killed the bike and pulled the connection. It’s almost burnt through the sheath.

Can someone post a wiring diagram for the Interstate or at least point me in a direction of what I need to look for or trace to get this solved now?! I’d figure it’s a ground or some sort but I don’t know where to look


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[mcgovern61]

Light green/black normally comes from the key switch to the accessory fuse. It is a positive wire.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

Light green/black normally comes from the key switch to the accessory fuse. It is a positive wire.

Thanks much! I saw that looking it up on the net but doesn’t tell me where it goes or what to look at to even start checking as to why it was smoking


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[dan filipi]

https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/galle ... m_id=10194

 

[GTC@MSAC]

It appears to supply a lot of things with power in the ON key position, and it is on a 10A main fuse, so there are a lot of possibilities.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/galle ... m_id=10194

Thanks Dan - much appreciated!
This light green/black if I trace the circuit right goes to the Hazard relay (which works fine) then to the 10a accessory fuse number 3 - from there it appears to go to the clock which is not connected off to the ignition switch dead ending at a red wire.

That makes little to no sense to me ha! I understand schematics and can follow wires easily but this one has me about stumped.

Here’s the pictures of the harness

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[TheRepoGuy]

It appears to supply a lot of things with power in the ON key position, and it is on a 10A main fuse, so there are a lot of possibilities.

If it’s the ACC fuse which is the first in my block, the diagram calls for a 10a and the fuse in it is a 25a [emoji848]


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[GTC@MSAC]

TheRepoGuy » 28 Aug 2019, 19:48[/url]":3u0w3b0w]

It appears to supply a lot of things with power in the ON key position, and it is on a 10A main fuse, so there are a lot of possibilities.

If it’s the ACC fuse which is the first in my block, the diagram calls for a 10a and the fuse in it is a 25a [emoji848]


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Ok, so something is drawing more than 10A, and the PO knew it. A 25A was put in there to keep from popping the 10A, but whatever it is, draws too much amperage, and without the 10A fuse the wire is melting! The ignition switch uses that circuit to power lots of things in the ON position, so start hunting.

 

[GTC@MSAC]

I'm betting it is the Fan motor overdrawing the current.

It's times like this where the ammeter wins over the volt meter.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

I'm betting it is the Fan motor overdrawing the current.

It's times like this where the ammeter wins over the volt meter.

Agreed - I don’t believe the fan even spins honestly - that was one thing I didn’t check when I rebuilt the old girl, just reconnected the plug and let her rip, I let the bike warm up a while back to about the midpoint in the gauge and it never kicked on - Good call on that one, I’ll unplug it tomorrow and see if I still have the same problem. Pretty sure you’re right the PO did the 25a for a reason [emoji849]


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[GTC@MSAC]

TheRepoGuy » 28 Aug 2019, 20:53[/url]":32x67j6v]

I'm betting it is the Fan motor overdrawing the current.

It's times like this where the ammeter wins over the volt meter.

Agreed - I don’t believe the fan even spins honestly - that was one thing I didn’t check when I rebuilt the old girl, just reconnected the plug and let her rip, I let the bike warm up a while back to about the midpoint in the gauge and it never kicked on - Good call on that one, I’ll unplug it tomorrow and see if I still have the same problem. Pretty sure you’re right the PO did the 25a for a reason [emoji849]


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Prior to "control modules" in cars, and now bikes too, I hear, You could simply unplug all the components on a bad circuit, and put a meter at the fuse junction, and re-connect each part that you unplugged, until the offender came on-line and exposed itslef. Newer cars and bike cannot be checked in this manner, and control modules are almost impossible to diagnose. Convenience device applications have turned a job like this into a virtual nightmare.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

TheRepoGuy » 28 Aug 2019, 20:53[/url]":2pfeupte]

I'm betting it is the Fan motor overdrawing the current.

It's times like this where the ammeter wins over the volt meter.

Agreed - I don’t believe the fan even spins honestly - that was one thing I didn’t check when I rebuilt the old girl, just reconnected the plug and let her rip, I let the bike warm up a while back to about the midpoint in the gauge and it never kicked on - Good call on that one, I’ll unplug it tomorrow and see if I still have the same problem. Pretty sure you’re right the PO did the 25a for a reason [emoji849]


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Prior to "control modules" in cars, and now bikes too, I hear, You could simply unplug all the components on a bad circuit, and put a meter at the fuse junction, and re-connect each part that you unplugged, until the offender came on-line and exposed itslef. Newer cars and bike cannot be checked in this manner, and control modules are almost impossible to diagnose. Convenience device applications have turned a job like this into a virtual nightmare.

I couldn’t agree more - however this problem seems simple. If the fan is shot and not spinning but is overloading the circuit then it needs to be replaced (though I’ll check it with a direct connection to the battery tomorrow and see if she spins) the only other logical solution to this would be to trace that wire like you’re saying to each component it dials into which doesn’t look like more than the left side switches and a few other things. Simple to replace if that’s the cause and it’s not the fan. Time will tell and so will daylight!
Nate


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[GTC@MSAC]

It is common in cars for the amatuer owner to wire a radiator fan directly to the car battery, rather than replacing the defective fan motor like he ought to. this is another reason I thought to suspect bad fan motor windings. Most owners will try to go for an "easy" fix rather than trouble themselves with the correct repair. I am confident that whatever you do find, someone else already knew before you, and thus the 25A fuse in the 10A slot, lol! Best of luck, and let us know your findings! -Graves-

Also one reason I have not converted my 82 GL500i to an electric fan like so many other people do. The shaft-driven fan may add a tiny bit of vibration, and may rob a tiny bit of power, but it is way more reliable as most low-tech items are. Inspecting my fan blades for cracking is far easier than chasing down and fixing a burnt out wiring harness, fan motor, thermal switches, etc.

I never can hear my GL1100 fan running, but I know it does from the copious amount of heat getting blown back on me while I ride, lol!

 

[GTC@MSAC]

TheRepoGuy » 28 Aug 2019, 19:47[/url]":3nosnmwa]

https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/galle ... m_id=10194

Thanks Dan - much appreciated!
This light green/black if I trace the circuit right goes to the Hazard relay (which works fine) then to the 10a accessory fuse number 3 - from there it appears to go to the clock which is not connected off to the ignition switch dead ending at a red wire.

That makes little to no sense to me ha! I understand schematics and can follow wires easily but this one has me about stumped.

Here’s the pictures of the harness

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It is amazing to me how the connection here is still almost identical to the GL1100. I don't have the blue/orange in my wiring diagram, but that appears to be the only difference. Honda has always had a consistency I find reassuring.

 

[joedrum]

It never makes sense to me ...that connection is where the problem is ...the switch connector just has to many wires to close together period ...like the stator connector used ...makes no sense period ..I guess cost is the big factor here to wire things up so stupid ...In my opinion

 

[TheRepoGuy]

It never makes sense to me ...that connection is where the problem is ...the switch connector just has to many wires to close together period ...like the stator connector used ...makes no sense period ..I guess cost is the big factor here to wire things up so stupid ...In my opinion

Which one - the fan connection or the ignition switch?


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[joedrum]

The ignition switch is what I was looking at ..but both could be bad ...to much heat evidence clearly seen ..I’m different than most ..and the switch connector is no longer a part of my bike ...nor the stator connector either ...it’s oblivious that whole connector is failure that just going to happen soon ...it needs totall redo period ...your bike probably needs much work on the wiring connectors to get good up to par system

 

[TheRepoGuy]

The ignition switch is what I was looking at ..but both could be bad ...to much heat evidence clearly seen ..I’m different than most ..and the switch connector is no longer a part of my bike ...nor the stator connector either ...it’s oblivious that whole connector is failure that just going to happen soon ...it needs totall redo period ...your bike probably needs much work on the wiring connectors to get good up to par system

I’m debating cutting that whole damn thing out and replacing it with those 3m waterproof connections without a doubt; still likely doesn’t solve the problem as to why it was smoking in the first place other than the fan not working though unfortunately


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[dan filipi]

I wouldn’t do a hack job like Joe suggests. Fix it proper for the next guy.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

I wouldn’t do a hack job like Joe suggests. Fix it proper for the next guy.

There will be no “next guy” I’m gonna be buried with this bike if they have to burn my ass and stick me in the saddle bag!


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