Need a New Front Tire

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Ok, next dumb question.

120/90-18....how much variance from those numbers can I safely explore? I see 110/90-18 black wall S11 on the motorcycle superstore for under 100. can I fudge a bit, or should I stick with the size I am currently running???? I see that 120/90-18 is what is listed in the book.

(none of the cheap e-bay tires would ship to alaska) :rant: :rant: :rant:
 
check this one out, https://www.americanmototire.com they ship to AK by Express, The 110 would be a narrower tire by 10 mm than the 120. I personally use the Shinko 230 Tourmasters, lot cheaper and I've had good service out of them. This tire company gives great service also.

I don't know why that link is not displaying right, guess you will have to type it in if you want to check it out. Sorry.

(link fixed, df)
 
Am I going to need new valve stem??? I know I have to get a valve stem remover, dyno beads, tire iron/spoons,....what else????

Valve Stems.png


If so....which one???

Or...pay someone and skip the tire spoon expense...and then pay them again, and again, and again....
 
I would use a new valve stem, if you use dyna beads you need to use the special valve core for beads and get the bottle and tube to install the beads into the tire, tire bead breaker which you can build for a couple collars, I just built and used one today, rim protectors and at least two tire irons.
 
Not a special stem, it's the valve core that's made that won't let the beads blow out the stem if you have to adjust the air pressure in the tire. Dyna probably sells a whole kit that has everything needed. I'm running Counteract beads in mine and I bought the whole kit for 27.00 bucks which is everything needed for front and rear tire.
 
For my valve stem, I just bought one of these:
https://www.motorcycle-superstore.c...rome-Tubeless-Valve-Stem.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch
There isn't anything special about the core and I use dyna-beads.

As far as bead breakers go, a large C-clamp, a bottle jack and a car bumper, or any olther combination will do the trick: it just depends on how much aggriviation you want to deal with. There are a couple different options available commercially:

https://www.jcwhitney.com/stop-and-...tire-bead-breaker/p2004056.jcwx?filterid=u0j1

This is one that does the trick with the least amount of aggrivation...
https://www.harborfreight.com/bead-breaker-92961.html
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=90868#p90868:xzfhw72s said:
backlander » Tue Jul 30, 2013 1:03 am[/url]":xzfhw72s]
check this one out,>>> www.americanmototire.com <<<they ship to AK by Express, The 110 would be a narrower tire by 10 mm than the 120. I personally use the Shinko 230 Tourmasters, lot cheaper and I've had good service out of them. This tire company gives great service also.

I don't know why that link is not displaying right, guess you will have to type it in if you want to check it out. Sorry.

You have to set your link at least a space away from any other characters.
 
Brian, I'm not going to get into a pissing contest over a valve core but if you will check out the website for Dyna beads or Counteract you will see that there is a filtered valve core. Thank you.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=90941#p90941:rjejgclt said:
backlander » Tue Jul 30, 2013 10:22 am[/url]":rjejgclt]
Brian, I'm not going to get into a pissing contest over a valve core but if you will check out the website for Dyna beads or Counteract you will see that there is a filtered valve core. Thank you.

My apologize Mike. I wasn't trying to start one either. I know there are valve stems out there with filters, but for dyna beads (I have no experience with counteract), if you air the tire with the valve stem higher up on the wheel's rotation the beads getting stuck in the core really isn't a problem. It can be a hassel on full dress models, but it is do-able.

Again, a pissing contest was not my intention.
 
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