Need help asap alternator removal 97 olds fwd v6

[Omega Man]

So it's been a while since I've changed one of these, and things seem to have changed. I think what I see is 2 bolts one top one bottom, and neither of them are meant for belt adjustment. They are strictly mounting bolts. Below the alt is what seems to be a belt tensioner as I was able to move it forward a tiny bit for just a second.

Am I right? and if so, how do I remove this, lift the tensioner and remove the belt, then simply unbolt alternator?



Pointing to bottom bolt.



Pointing to tensioner(when I moved it the whole arm moved a tiny bit).



Any help would be appreciated!

~O~

 

[mcgovern61]

Randy, you are correct..that is the belt tensioner and a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar should fit in the hole at the pulley. I use a breaker bar and turn back against the spring to loosen the belt and pull off. Be careful...if the belt comes off all of the pulleys it is not always obvious how it goes back on. I always make a sketch of the pulleys and belt direction before I loosen or pull a belt. Good luck! (And don't use your back!! You don't want to end up horizontal!)

 

[dan filipi]

Yeah your used to the olden days Randy.
Alt is solid mounted along with everything else.
Tensioner does all the work on the belt.

 

[Omega Man]

Thanks guys, you teh bestest!!!

~O~

 

[AApple]

Yup...lever the tensioner away, and remove the belt from the alt. pulley. There should be a diagram under the hood somewhere that shows the belt routing, but if not, make a drawing as Gerry said.
Then disconnect the wiring, remove the two(or more...may have a brace on the back) bolts, and out she comes. Reassemble in reverse.
Definitely take your time, and don't overdo it and strain yer back!

 

[SteveA-wing]

Yup...lever the tensioner away, and remove the belt from the alt. pulley. There should be a diagram under the hood somewhere that shows the belt routing, but if not, make a drawing as Gerry said.
Then disconnect the wiring, remove the two(or more...may have a brace on the back) bolts, and out she comes. Reassemble in reverse.
Definitely take your time, and don't overdo it and strain yer back!

And don't forget to disconnect the battery leads before you start messing with the wires on the alternator.

It's not a bad job, I can think of lots worse things that I have had to do or procrastinating to do on one of my vehicles. Motorcycles are alot easier to wrench on.... :yes:

 

[Omega Man]

She a runnin again. I used the 3' long support you have to take off to get to the battery for a lever. The unit was good, new wally's battery was dead, but they gave me a second(actually the third) one free. After getting her all back together I found a dome light that wouldn't turn off, so I took the bulb out. There is still a chance the internal regulator is failing as it's charging high 13-14 at idle. We'll see what happens.

Cost of repair $0. :yahoo:

Thanks again for the help.

~O~

 

[dan filipi]

3rd Walmart battery?

I know where I won't go for a battery.

 

[SteveA-wing]

3rd Walmart battery?

I know where I won't go for a battery.

Most batteries sold at good ole' Wally World are generaly ok. You can get a defective battery anywhere. My experiance is that battery issues at the stores can usually be attributed to improper storage, i.e. if it was stored in the stockroom sitting directly on concrete vs. on a wooden or plastic pallet. If it was stored improperly and left in a partial discharged state, it will damage the battery and greatly effect the storage capacity of the battery or could cause a "dead cell". Usually this can be traced to a stock person with improper or no training or with the "I don't give a !@# attitiude". Walmart / Sams have always made good on a defective item when I have had one that needed to be dealt with.

 

[aslatk]

She a runnin again. I used the 3' long support you have to take off to get to the battery for a lever. The unit was good, new wally's battery was dead, but they gave me a second(actually the third) one free. After getting her all back together I found a dome light that wouldn't turn off, so I took the bulb out. There is still a chance the internal regulator is failing as it's charging high 13-14 at idle. We'll see what happens.

Cost of repair $0. :yahoo:

Thanks again for the help.

~O~

FYI, system operating voltage runs around 13.8 to 14.8 volts. That's the voltage you should see after idling a bit with the alternator putting out around 10 amps or less. If you checking voltage just after starting the car the voltage will be less but will increase up to the 13.8 to 14.8 volt range as the batteries energy is replenished from cranking the engine over. You can also turn everything on after (headlights on high beam, blower motor on high, etc) and look at voltage again. You should still see it around that voltage range as long as the battery is charged up. If ya do, charging system is operating okay at this time.
:laptop: