Need to replace front brakes, Need info PLZ

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Montecman

Montecman

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Jan 7, 2010
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Location
Alvin, Tx.
Ok, I need to replace my front brakes,....

1. Should I do the rear at the same time?
2. What should I expect to pay for the pads?
3. What is the best place to order the pads from?
4. Do the disks need to be turned?
5. Is there anything that I need to know before jumping off for the first time into doing my
own brakes?

:beg: :help: :beg:
 
80 to 81 brakes are probably easiest to deal with. if the brakes are working good and rotors seem smooth i'd just change the pads without bleeding. there's a good chance the back pads are ok but there easy to change compared to other wings. your bike is old enough that it might need more work if theres a stuck or dragging piston. i'd try just changing pads first. be careful brake fluid and plastic dont get along. all you have to do is squeeze the brake piston in so the new pads will be open enough to go over rotor.
 
Be VERY careful when opening the bleeders... I twisted 2 of the 3 off when i went to change my pads
When you put the wrench on the bleeder, Tap that wrench with a hammer lightly till it breaks lose

When i did mine i didnt do that, I just muscled it till they snapped off :head bang: :crying: :fiddle:
 
I did not open my bleeders when I last replaced my pads.. I just took a c clamp and slowly turned it until the puck seated.. watching to keep boot from getting torn.. I then took off the pads.. first set took both off and had to fight the clips that they slide on.. the other side I took one side off and replaced it and then removed the other half set.. work one side at a time and clean lube the sliding pins and the sliding areas for the brakes... then when you have both calipers and brakes back on and tighten back down.... pump the brakes many times to get the piston back on the pads... if you forget this ... what a surprise at first stop...!!!~! :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :sensored: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
if you decide to bleed them down or replace the fluid .. then take the bottom bolt out and rotate the caliper so the bleederr is pointing up.. this will allow the maximum air in the system to be bleed out.. (calipers have the bleeder not quite on top of the chamber..) the rotation puts it at the top...
 
Do you still have the seller from ebay that you bought your pads from? I've been looking and can't find a set for less that $25 per caliper. Which means I'm looking at $75 minimum unless I can source them somewhere else, not to mention that I need to rebuild all of my calipers.
 
I haven't dealt with them personally, but have been informed to steer clear if there is any way possible. I read some where about a question that was posed to them about a carb rebuild kit. It was a simple question that had a simple answer, but the guy ended up getting the third degree from them. I'm not trying to bash them in any way, as I say, I've never dealt with them personally, but read this for your self and you'll understand my reasoning for avoiding them.
https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=36980
 
Which is why I put in the disclaimer.. others on another forum (NAGF) have had both the good and the bad.. and there are those that seem to always have the good experience with them.. I have not tried buying from them... but was posting the possible source that Montecman may have gotten his from...prices are close..
 
sabercyclegoldwingparts is where i found them. I hope that I have a good experiance with them!
 
I went back and looked and the seller just doesn't say. Simply "1980-81 GL1100's"
So in the future, where should I look for these pads?
 
they actually had the best price.. and it looks like they have combined with or are using a front company.. you can order from bike bandit, denniskirk, jcwhitney, parts unlimited and others.. this one company name will start a flame war whenever it is used... so it is buyer beware.. BTW I also saw on craigslist here in texas either waco or another town that way some one was selling a set for 10$$ said had 1 box of them... wasn't sure if it was a set or a box of sets.. found it again.. it was Austin.. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/1555247784.html
 
I'll try cheapcycle parts next time.
The last set of pads I got from crescent moon labeled EBC lasted less than 5000 miles.
I would suspect the brake was dragging to wear that fast but not the case. This was rear pads which I practice using as little as possible. The fronts still have the pads that were on it when I bought the bike 30k miles ago.
 
I had cabercycle pads on my 1100 when I rebuilt her.....they lasted all of about a month. Every time I put on the brakes, I smelt burning brakes. There are many wing riders including myself that stay as far away from cabercycle as possible. They sell cheap products and have terrible customer service.
Since I changed them, I am back to normal wear.
If I may add a tip. You might want to get a 3" c clamp. Depending on how much the pads have worn, you might have to set the pistons back in the caliper to get the new pads to fit around the rotors. Just use one of your old pads and the c clamp and with gentle pressure, set the pistons back in the caliper. Its not hard. Also use a rag to cover the caliper to avoid scratching.
 
My bike goes through pads quickly but I don't think they are all the same. The last set that lasted only 3 months on my rear wheel looked very different from the 3 sets I just installed. The new ones have metal in the pad material, and I hope they last a lot longer. :roll:

~O~
 
Well, I'll keep track of my mileage on these. I ride ALOT. Anytime I go by myself and the weather allows it I'll take Melba so i'll find out pretty quick. This is my first touring bike as well as the first bike I have self-maintained so I'm learning alot quickly thanx to all of you
:clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:
 

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