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Thank you for the welcomes.

The 'Wing' needs some attention...How to start? It has had a recent paint job, excellent chrome and metal finish, and, at speed, sounds. But when taking off from a standing start, the engine sounds like it is lugging unless it is revved up to about 1500 to 1800 rpm and the clutch is slipped out slowly. But when going down the road at above 3000 rpm she pulls strong. From what I have read, the cause could very well be mal-adjusted carburators. Am I right?

When the throttle is released, it does not snap back. Could this be bad cables, mis-routed cable, bad return spring, or sticky linkage?

The neutal light does not work. Does that mean the cases need to be split to fix it?

The speedometer is dead. Not even a waver. Is this fixable? Could it need only be cleaned, lubed, and the magnetic pickup adjusted for to be a working clock?

Has anyone had a bad experience with dyna-beads as wheel ballancers? I've found nothing but good. It seems too good to be true.

I do plan to replace the timing belts within the month. I'll also adjust he valves and replace the spark plugs at the same time. Will changing the timing belts affect the timing on the cd ignition as it does on a points ignition? If so, how may the ignition timing be adjusted?

Allow me, please, to thank you all in advance.
 
quite a plate full ...could be carb adjustment ..might also be clog up idle jets in all or some of the carbs ..once past to secondary fuel passes it go ahead and runs good ... could also be weak ignition spark all oldwing ignitions sould be gone through and brought up to par...like new wires ends and all ....put some aft drops in the cable at grip it will loosen ...sometimes the cables are routed to kinky to work right also .....im not sure about the nutruel switch never missed with one i remember....i do think its front cover access ...just as bad realy.....hmmm speedo could be broke cable if not its a bitch from there ....dyna beads i think are great and self adjusting.....replaceing the belts will and will not affect timing ...if there put on and not tension right it can lead to more play being in more vibration and just imporper installation ...when done right play is decrease to a very smooth running motor if everything else is as good as belts being right .....timing is set at factory on 1100s ...but there is a way to undo the fix to allow adjustment but this is motor out job mostly
 
There is no one answer for your bike problems, but...
i.candide":1j3xrea6 said:
But when taking off from a standing start, the engine sounds like it is lugging unless it is revved up to about 1500 to 1800 rpm and the clutch is slipped out slowly. But when going down the road at above 3000 rpm she pulls strong. From what I have read, the cause could very well be mal-adjusted carburators. Am I right?
I have seen a good carb sync make a world of difference.
i.candide":1j3xrea6 said:
When the throttle is released, it does not snap back. Could this be bad cables, mis-routed cable, bad return spring, or sticky linkage?
Yes. I'd say a good lube on the cables would be a good place to start. Also make sure the cables don't make any sharp turns in their routing.
i.candide":1j3xrea6 said:
The neutral light does not work. Does that mean the cases need to be split to fix it?
No. could be a bad bulb, the neutral switch, or anything in between. None (should) require splitting the case.
i.candide":1j3xrea6 said:
The speedometer is dead. Not even a waver. Is this fixable? Could it need only be cleaned, lubed, and the magnetic pickup adjusted for to be a working clock?
Don't think they have a magnetic pickup. Broke cable?
i.candide":1j3xrea6 said:
Has anyone had a bad experience with dyna-beads as wheel ballancers? I've found nothing but good. It seems too good to be true.
No experience, sorry.
i.candide":1j3xrea6 said:
I do plan to replace the timing belts within the month. I'll also adjust he valves and replace the spark plugs at the same time. Will changing the timing belts affect the timing on the cd ignition as it does on a points ignition? If so, how may the ignition timing be adjusted?
If you don't know the history of the belts, I'd put a priority on getting them replaced. Being an interference engine, if one goes the valves and piston may try to occupy the same place, at the same time. Should not affect the timing and IIRC timing is non adjustable.
 
The 80 has a mechanical pickip on the front wheel for speedo.coule be broken cable or bent or broken ears in pick-up, or sized up. un-hook the lower end of cable, you can check cable and wheel unit from there. Raise front wheel and spin it . out-put from wheel should turn.
 
My 80 had an issue with the speedometer. Once I got the cable up in it a few taps on it the clock itself got it working.
 
Hello,

1. Change your speedometer cable--cheap and easy and there is a write up with pictures on the web.
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2011

2. The Neutral light not working-- I have the same problem with my GL1100. The guys here helped me figure out the cause. Once you get the bike in Neutral can you start the bike without pulling the clutch? I opened the front bulb housing but the bulb was okay. Then, I shorted the Neutral switch wire and the bulb started working and I could start the bike when in Neutral without pulling the clutch. So for me this pointed to a problem further in towards the Neutral switch. Now this is a fairly big job (for me).

I will look for the links and post.
Simba
 

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