Proper compression testing

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quennc

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Jun 13, 2011
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Barrie,Ontario
Hey all, happy new year to all, been off the site for a while. Many projects on the go but now working on the bike again. Just a couple quick questions. Wanted to see if my compression was fine, being that it's -20 here right now , it's been alot of fun starting up the bike. Did a compression test while cold and right now i'm getting a reading between 120 and 130 across the board. Now i'm assuming once i get the bike up and running to proper temp that the readings should be higher. What is generally the right compression on these bikes? I'm aware that as long as they're all between 10 of each other on the reading, that that is good. Any info would be great.
 
Well first the reading should be done:

All plugs out
Full battery with good crank speed
Throttle wide open
Choke off

At -20 I couldn't say what the reading should be but I suspect it will definitely be lower than at say 50 degrees.

Mine will read pretty much the same cold test at 50 degrees outside as it will a warm engine test, around 160 pounds so I would run it til
it's warm but not so warm you can't handle the plugs to take them out, then get a reading.
I bet your 120-130 is ok.
 
Thanks alot for the info, wasn't aware of the throttle wide open part. I got it to start but being so cold i had a really bad knocking sound until she warmed up a little then went away. Now i know these bikes are known for massive noises when starting from cold especially this cold but didn't expect it to get this loud. But like i said it stopped once warmed up.
 
Being that cold will effect the cranking speed of the engine, fer sher. HOT compression readings are usually a wee bit lower than cold...what you wanna see is a similar compression on all cylinders, hot or cold. A 10% variation between cylinders is ok, but more than that might need some investigation.

btw...doing a compression test with the engine running is pretty much usless....too many variables, plus the running compression is always LOWER than cranking compression. :mrgreen:
 
Well there's a couple things i didn't do with the first compression test. I wasn't aware that all plugs had to come out unless i read that wrong. I pulled 1 plug at a time and also i never pulled the throttle all the way back. SO my guess is my initial test means nothing. So is running to motor till it's at least warmed up a little not going to give you a more accurate reading or is doing the test no matter how cold or warm it is wouldn't make a difference? Just curious cause if running it won't make a difference i won't. With the weather being cold the way it is it makes no sence to me wasting all that time to get the temp up for no reason. I know this can be a matter of opinion to many but i don't mind reading them all. So feel free to share your outlook on the matter.
 
Hot or cold isn't really the issue...what you're looking for is any major difference between the cylinders... :good:
 
I'd expect a cold engine to crank slower due to the thicker oil drag. Slower cranking speed might result in relative lower readings. But as mentioned before, consistency is what you're looking for. As a rule, a cylinder needs to measure about 100PSI cranking compression to fire. What you're attempting to measure with cranking compression test is a cylinders ability to seal.
To keep the test consistent for all cylinders, it's best to remove all plugs, have the throttle wide open, and a charger going on the battery.

For a running compression test, what you're attempting to measure is the ability to fill the cylinder - or volumetric efficiency. For that, here is my list of instruction that I keep handy:

Step 1. Preform a cranking compression test with all plugs
out and the throttle open.

Step 2. Record your cranking compression readings. Make
sure the charging system was up to snuff so all cylinders
were tested under the same conditions.

Step 3. Install all plugs but one. Install a standard
compression guage in the remaining hole with the shrader
valve in place.

Step 4. Start the engine. Yes, it will run but will be
missing on the cylinder with the compression guage. Burp
the guage and allow the reading to stabilize.

It will be bouncing around at about 50 to 60 psi. (the throttle is
causing a restriction and the piston is moving fast
compared to cranking speed causing only a partial fill of
the combustion chamber).

Step 5. Snap the throttle wide open and return to idle.
The guage will hold at the peak reading. This reading is higher
than idle because the peak comes at the instant the
throttle restriction is removed and the piston speed is
relatively slow.

Step 6. Record your readings for running snap compression
for all cylinders. The running compression reading should
be approx. 80% of cranking compression. (example: cranking
compression = 150psi running compression should = about
120psi)

If your running reading is below 80% of cranking
compression, the intake system is causing a restriction. If
the running reading is above 80% of cranking compression,
the exhaust system is causing a restriction. If the problem
is in one cylinder you either have a problem with a worn
camshaft, broken spring/rocker, carbon build up, etc. If
the problem is on all cylinders look for a restricted
intake system or clogged muffler.

The 80% spec is a ballpark spec and should be used as such. Remember that
cranking compression is a measure of cylinder seal while
running compression is a measure of volumetric efficiency
or the cylinders ability to draw the air/fuel mixture into
the combustion chamber.

Hope you find this useful. :moped:
 
When you've checked ignition and fuel delivery and come up blank, it's time to check mechanical integrity.
Suck-Squeeze-Bang-Blow. :Egyptian:

BTW, how come you were get'n 205(?)psi on one side and 160psi on the other? Anything new on that?
 
scdmarx":3gsr5kkd said:
BTW, how come you were get'n 205(?)psi on one side and 160psi on the other? Anything new on that?
Let it go Ron! We are just looking the other way on that one! :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

Just kidding, I remember a lot of discussion on the cam lobe differences between 1100 and 1200 and so on.

Hey, I really appreciate the compression test write up! I wonder if this could have been helpful in determining causes of the knocking in my old '81 engine? Either way, it is series of tests I will be doing on my '83 engine for a good baseline for the future. :thanks:
 

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