Q: What happens when you have a backfire into a PVC manifold

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I found I had the one spare pvc part that broke energetically (how's that for spinning "exploded"?) and was able to put it back together one more time. I'm now trying to find the right parts in steel to get one welded up with minimal metalworking. I have that turbo manifold if I'm willing to drop that much and elbows are easy to get. Making a "wye" is rather difficult and I doubt I can find a premade one that isn't godaweful expensive but I haven't given up yet.
 
ok with single carb set ups like yours chuck ....you have a strait section going side to side ...if you use the side stand on your bike for it to sit ...any gas charge can leak down into motor ...carb itself is up high ...if float height is normal ...it can spill over bowl from leaning and gas into manifold and into motor ..either of these deals can cause backfire with the wasted spark system for ignition....

on my bike i have the front ride off stand and dont really have problems with stuff like this ...

any strat section for manifold going with the bike ...front to back is less likely to leak in motor ....float level in carb should be lower than it is as info says so carb dosnt leak from lening to much...

you can also mount carb wher when it is leaned over it actually lessen gas to places it can leak ...so backfires can be something that can be eliminated to the smallest level if considered in build ....with the best thing being getting great gas charge dial in ...this is all opinion ...but it how i think in setting up SCC for oldwings.....
 
Not sitting level + drippy carb = greater risk of booms. But I've had it hydrolock on me on the uphill side, too. A straight cross tube will do just as you say but that wye under the carb has a kind of divider in the center and a drip will still go to the uphill side if it's only a mm off center that direction. There's no low spot to catch it between there and the intake valve, either.

In any case there is far too much liquid gas going down there. If I forget to turn off the petcock it will almost drain the tank. Now, I just adjusted the float valve to try to knock that out. I'm not sure if I got it right yet but I'm going to conduct an experiment before I put the manifold back on. The carb can hang right where it would if it was on the manifold and I will see if it will still drip.

The other thing is the accelerator pump. When on my very short test rides if I crank it, it bogs down. I have to ease off the throttle. I think that big shot of liquid gas from the accelerator pump is doing more harm than help. That relatively large carb doesn't need it. I am going to disconnect it for my next test ride and see if it helps.

I thought that wasted spark is what's setting it off but I don't see how. The gas shouldn't be getting to the spark. Both valves should be closed during both sparks. I welcome explanation.
 

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