Rear brake issue

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hondaman

hondaman

Active member
Joined
Mar 3, 2010
Messages
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Location
Methuen, Massachusetts
I have a 1980 GL1100 that I have owned for 18 years now.
It has 106,000 miles, and I do all my own maintenance.
Recently, over the past 2 seasons. While on a ride the first time,
I was traveling down the highway, and could detect that clutch, disc pad smell
around me. I thought it was a trucker or something, not me. I pulled to the next exit,
and the bike almost stopped by itself. On the center stand and the rear disk was smoldering.
I had to use my gloves to remove the caliper,( with a hammer ) and remove the pads to continue
with only front brakes. I replaced the rotor,pads,caliper with a real nice ebay Honda one, cleaned that up
and I had rear brakes, for a while. The problem returned, several parts gathered,rebuilt the caliper,
and checked the master cylinder, all back together good for a while.
This winter I got a good used master cylinder with a new rebuild kit, good rotor, good caliper, and rebuild kit for that.
The system bled great, good feel at the pedal, it appeared that the pads were returning when off the pedal. I thought I
had solved the problem. Last week just 12-15 miles into the ride, and after all that repair, the same problem happened again.
I used dot 3&4 synthetic fluid, and I have a Russell stainless steel brake line.
What am I missing here???
 
Try removing the caliper and use a C clamp to compress the piston in to force the fluid back into the master. Put it back on the rotor temporarily and pump it back up. Then compress it again. Now reinstall and check function.
 
I had the same issue with my '82 and it turned out that my brake pedal was sticking just enough to not let the fluid return via the return hole and it kept adding pressure to the pads. I also found the adjustment section of the pedal was making contact with the muffler which just made it worse.
 
gee wizz a for sure partly block return system ....back bleeding is the way to clear that...using piston to back push the fluid to clear return system ..so brake wont stick ...ride awhile under pressure and it heats up and gets even tighter....
 
I have had this same issue with my '83 Aspy. See ('83 aspy rear master lockup) sorry, I don't know how to post a link! After many tries and failures I measured the piston length in the master cylinder and found it was too long. The return hole was being covered up by the piston. My solution was to put the piston in the lathe and take off a 1/16" from each end. I haven't had the problem since.
 
It could also be the often neglected pivot shaft for the pedal itself.
My 82 did that and I knew the brakes were in good shape.
Turned out to be pedal not returning after depressing it.
Maintenanced it, relubed with waterproof grease and never had another issue.
 
Probably it's completely wrong but I had similar experience with my XS750.
It turned out to be a Vetter hard bag.
The mounting subframe was touching rear brake caliper.

So just in case..

DSCN_6606.JPG
 
My $.02. One of the things drilled into me when I started driving was to never leave my foot on the brake or clutch pedals. On the brakes it will cause them to drag and get hot and on the clutch it will burn out the throwout bearing and fork. To this day I still adjust my rear pedal so I have to take a very deliberate movement to even touch it. I agree with everyone else that most likely your pads are not disengaging from the disks. The possible causes are:
the return hole in the MS is clogged,
the pedal or its linkage is binding,
the calipers are not able to move freely on the pins,
the pedal return spring is too weak from age,
the rider's foot is touching the pedal without realizing it.
 
I would guess brake pedal adjustment as already mentioned. If the MC plunger doesn't return all the way it will not allow fluid to return to MC. You want a little free play on your MC, make sure the return spring is pulling the pedal up all the way.
A friend of mine had the exact problem but on a different bike, figured out he was resting his foot on the brake pedal and not allowing it to fully return.
 
My guess from what I hear out there is that I missed the return hole in the MC.
It makes so much sense.
All the other things have been addressed.
I'll let you know how I make out.
 
The weep hole the culprit.
It took several attempts to push the wire through.
Blew some air through, reassembled, and works great.
Thanks guys for all your help!
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=176806#p176806:folcybzp said:
chuck c » Thu Jul 14, 2016 4:14 pm[/url]":folcybzp]
Another win for Joedrum! He called that one!
Click to expand...
Yep! Joe calls a lot! He has been doing this for a long time! :yes:
 
Great that you got it fixed so easily, that rear master cylinder is a bear to remove and even worse to re-install.

Also great that it was on the back and that you only had a slight case of stopped up return hole.

I still have nightmares about my front brake locking on on I45 just north of Houston.
 

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