Replace head gaskets?

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canuckxxxx

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Seems to be a lot of references to blown head gaskets on oldwings. I get the impression that my old head gaskets will eventually blow and that maybe I should change them as a maintenance item. Do they deteriorate from contact with coolant?

The reason I am asking is that I have never had the heads off of my '82 since I bought it 2 years ago. No sign of trouble with head gaskets. Have 150 psi on all cylinders. Put a lot of work into getting it running real nice but would hate to have a head gasket blow mid-ride.

What do you guys think?

Brian
 
leave it brian till trouble ... seems the head gasket today are crap quality for sure honda or not is my experience ... the gaskets today are 99% goop an 1% metal and i think the older gaskets were much better ... todays gaskets if they get hot one time the goop melts and it is over with
 
My opinion? I would leave them alone! I am under the opinion that these head gaskets fail because of other un-addressed issues that get overlooked. Most of the threads I have read about head gasket failures are almost always framed with other coolant system issues including leaks, engine sat for years unused in changing weather, timing belts incorrectly installed, not changing oil and carb issues.

Change the pressures or thermal characteristics of the engine by missing these items and the head gaskets get prone to failure.


Me? My '83 engine has the original gaskets and they are not coming out unless I have a problem.
 
I wouldn't change them but I feel after getting almost a full turn on all the head bolts on this used 1200 that periodic retorque might be a good idea.
How often I could only guess.
Maybe every valve adjustment? 20,000 miles?
 
I take the attitude, "if it's not broke, don't fix it." but that is just me. With that said, I agree with Dan, warm the engine up, pull the valve covers and torque the heads, then adjust the valves.
Just a thought on torque wrenches, make sure yours is accurate. Also don't miss the 6mm bolt on bottom of head.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=128401#p128401:3jbyyod8 said:
mcgovern61 » Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:02 am[/url]":3jbyyod8]
My opinion? I would leave them alone! I am under the opinion that these head gaskets fail because of other un-addressed issues that get overlooked. Most of the threads I have read about head gasket failures are almost always framed with other coolant system issues including leaks, engine sat for years unused in changing weather, timing belts incorrectly installed, not changing oil and carb issues.

Change the pressures or thermal characteristics of the engine by missing these items and the head gaskets get prone to failure.


Me? My '83 engine has the original gaskets and they are not coming out unless I have a problem.

yes gerry but brians bike is performing perfectly and has 2 yr record of good operation to be considered of no problems what so ever
 
I got responses from the best minds in the oldwing world IMO. Thanks for all your learned opinions and to be honest that is the answer I was wanting to hear. I don't like messing with things that aren't giving trouble.

But that is a good suggestion to retorque the head bolts. I'll probably do a bunch of maintenance on it when I can't ride any more this fall including checking the valves.

BTW, I want to do some cosmetic improvements this winter which might involve removing engine and at that point I would like to replace/fix the vacuum advance thing. Wish I could afford C5 too.

Nice thing about oldwings is that you never run out of projects.LOL :builder:

Brian
 
In my experience, changing the stator will cause the head gaskets to fail..... :hihihi: (not really, but that's when mine took a doo-doo)

I also agree to not mess with them until you see signs of an impending gasket failure. Someone here mentioned just the other day that the head bolts on these engines are "torque-to-yield", meaning they stretch when torqued, and should not be re-used. I had not head of this before, and don't even know if it is true, but if it IS, that could be the reason a lot of folks are having repeat gasket failures, on top of the aftermarket gaskets being crap. :headscratch:


btw...if you're looking for a "never ending project"....buy an old Corvette..... :head bang: :hihihi:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=128441#p128441:2gfkl2rn said:
AApple » Fri Aug 15, 2014 2:59 am[/url]":2gfkl2rn]
In my experience, changing the stator will cause the head gaskets to fail..... :hihihi: (not really, but that's when mine took a doo-doo)


btw...if you're looking for a "never ending project"....buy an old Corvette..... :head bang: :hihihi:


:smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 
One thing about replacing head gaskets is most people do not have the heads surfaced unless they know they are warped. I will not replace a head gasket on anything without the heads being surfaced.

As for the head bolts, good point regarding "Torque-to Yield". Here is the thing, it may be very hard to find new head bolts, but I don't know. So I would use the old ones after running a tap down each hole. When back together warm the engine up to operating temp then re-torque the head bolts and double check valve clearance. I know it is more work, but it is well worth the effort.
 
:smilie_happy:
I know new head bolts are prolly non-existent, but wonder about IF the bolts ARE t-t-y, how much they actually do stretch in service, and if that would contribute to early, repeat failures. I know when I did my heads, there was one bolt that I thought might be questionable as I torqued it down. So far, so good(it's been well over a year since I did mine), but I wasn't about to tempt fate by doing a re-torque after running it thru a few heat cycles... :beg:
 
I'm gonna have to think about this for a minute......the head bolts are steel? (Right?) The block that they thread into is aluminium? (Right?) I'm gonna go with the aluminium THREADS will stretch before the steel bolts tension out?? :roll:
 
well I have no doubt that the bolts used in all goldwings are TTY, but what their torque to yield point is unknown, may be greater then the torque listed in the manual or could be right at that torque. The manual says nothing about them needing replaced or does it say that a torque angle meter is required for final torque which is a mandatory procedure when torquing a TTY bolt..
I would say at the very least these bolts should be inspected carefully for stretch and fit by measuring them with calipers against each other and any found longer should be inspected carefully or just replaced with a better matching used one, and always replace a bolt that doesn't feel smooth when threaded into the block...Think the stock length is 115MM and 90MM on these bolts. Sourcing studs is another option.
A little information on TTY bolts
https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/a1_4.html
 
Great article Jeff! :thanks:

Now I have to "Yield" from my previous comments......(I was wrong, I admit it) :hihihi:

I also have my '81 engine head bolts in a box! Might have to go and check their length to see if they have stretched.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=128612#p128612:25wiprcr said:
mcgovern61 » Fri Aug 15, 2014 2:00 pm[/url]":25wiprcr]
Great article Jeff! :thanks:

Now I have to "Yield" from my previous comments......(I was wrong, I admit it) :hihihi:

I also have my '81 engine head bolts in a box! Might have to go and check their length to see if they have stretched.
FYI!!!....I pulled the head bolts from my old '81 engine. (Everything was worn out in that engine.) BUT, the head bolts all measured exactly 115 MM or 90 MM in length! No stretched bolts in that set!

(Anybody interested in some good 1100 head bolts?)
 
NICE!..I`ll keep you in mind when I need some, be sure and roll them on a flat surface for straightness too, an edge of a bolt can rub in the through hole and affect the reading.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=129083#p129083:1z6e9s6s said:
zman » Fri Aug 22, 2014 2:10 pm[/url]":1z6e9s6s]
NICE!..I`ll keep you in mind when I need some, be sure and roll them on a flat surface for straightness too, an edge of a bolt can rub in the through hole and affect the reading.
Will do Jeff! They are just sitting in a box looking for a new owner! (Unless, of course, I blow a head gasket...) :hihihi:
 

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