REPLACEMENT OF NEUTRAL SWITCH ON 1981 GL-1100I

[normlf]

Neutral light remains on, but dimmer, when shifte from neutral into any gear.

I gather that might be from some carbon deposit inside the switch and that shorting the switch out with 12 vdc can possibly clear it. Does anybody have any advice on this.

Also, replacing the switch looks nearly impossible with the engine in the frame.....is it possible? Any suggestions about how would be of great value.

Does anybody have any ideas?

 

[joedrum]

let dan answer this he has burned the carbon off the switch ...in his method he done

 

[dan filipi]

Shorting it "fixed" mine but I do find when the oil gets dirty the light starts coming on again. Happens after a few thousand miles when it should be changed anyway.

 

[normlf]

Thanks, just a momentary contact with 12 vdc I presume...as opposed to powering up and leaving for a short time....likely the arcing will do the trick. Will give it a try......my concern with that method was damaging the switch so it doesn't work at all......but apparently that does not happen. Please advise if you know!

 

[dan filipi]

Thanks, just a momentary contact with 12 vdc I presume...as opposed to powering up and leaving for a short time....likely the arcing will do the trick. Will give it a try......my concern with that method was damaging the switch so it doesn't work at all......but apparently that does not happen. Please advise if you know!

That's right, just a momentary connection to 12 volt positive with a jumper wire from the battery.

Disconnect the wire from the harness leading to the neutral switch. Don't do this with it connected into the harness because the 12v pos will damage the diode.
I tried shorting it a couple times while in gear but that didn't work, light stayed dimly lit.
After shorting it while in neutral, the light stopped coming on while in gear.
It's been a while but I think it took shorting it a couple times.

 

[roncar]

Yes they can be changed with the engine in the frame. https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14520 That's on a '78, but I've done it on an '81 as well.

Once out, the switch can be disassembled and cleaned. https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41432

Disclaimer: Your results may vary. :whistling:

 

[normlf]

Thanks Dan, I replaced a switch on a GL-1000 I had a few years ago and that was challenge, but successful. It is even more difficult to get at on the 1981 GL-1100I and I think I'll try the shorting method and also using an additive in the oil which will be changed with a new filter as soon as a dip stick kit arrives. What on earth was Honda thinking about with a sight glass....and in such an odd and hard to reach place. My VTX-1800 also has that as well.............hate it. Insane way of checking oil....and it is supposed to be when the bike is level...and the VTX doesn't even have a center stand...so it takes two people.....besides, I can no longer get any of the big bikes up on a center stand alone........some things disappear at 69.....or so it seems.

Thanks for the information...don't think I'll replace the switch until trying the fix first and several times.......and then running with an oil additive and fresh oil......at least for a while.

 

[dan filipi]

It's interesting in this photo you posted at NGW that while in gear the contacts are on an insulator in the middle part,

Do you remember if that center pin will rotate?

I'm just kind of wondering why shorting with 12 V while in neutral fixed mine.

 

[slabghost]

Arcing probably burns off the metal dust build up on the insulator.

 

[Steve83]

On an '82 and '83 the neutral (& overdrive in '83) switch is a rotary switch in the front cover. The '80 and '81 has the neutral switch in the case, and it also retains the shift drum. I guess a conductive coating could build up on either one, and the shorting you're doing burns it off. Lots of carbon in the dirty oil.

 

[mwbill37841]

:wave: i got the same problem ut rather than change the switch ,i 'm got to save up and just buy a new gw. or at lest that's how it was in my dream... :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

 

[wilcoy02]

Since I can find neutral i just pulled the light bulb out of the socket so the light does not shine anymore.

 

[scdmarx]

:wave: i got the same problem ut rather than change the switch ,i 'm got to save up and just buy a new gw. or at lest that's how it was in my dream... :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:

I bet the old one lasts longer than it takes you to save up for a new one! opcorn: :moped:

 

[normlf]

re: a neutral switch and light that remain on even when in gear.

I had the problem and asked on this forum about how to get the switch out. I learned that on the series of years that have the switch in the left side of the crankcase that replacement is possible. I've done it on a 1979, but it looks even tougher on the 81 I'm working on. First, if you don't have time and patience...don't take it on yourself. It is not a question of technical ability, it is a matter of accessing the part. Very poor design, but that's what Honda did. The only way to get the switch out is to pry the frame away from the crankcase and doing that with a metal pry bar would not be acceptable. I ended up on the 79 cutting two relatively long tapered wedges out of hardwood...and hard maple would be about the best. The wedges are driven in and the frame member is pried out to provide the clearance necessary. Now don't get the idea that you'll have plenty of room because you won't. Just enough to wiggle the switch with the wire still connecte is all you get and all you'll need....but remember you have to size up which motor mount bolts restrain the frame member. The less constrained the frame is at that point, the easier and safer this is to do. In doing a bit of research on this procedure, I learned that this is an approved method....and perhaps the only possible way to get that switch out.

I also learned that clean oil and the addition of a carbon cleaning additive may help too..rather than rushing to replace the switch. The nature of the switch is such that the contacts slide onto a portion of the internal plunger that is insulated....and that occurs when the transmission is in any gear....and apparently some conductive grunge deposits on that insulated section. Perhaps carbon or some brass rubbings tranferred from the contact wipers inside. What is not certain to me, but it does make sense. That being the case, the idea of shorting out the switch and "shocking" it with a momentary dead fault of 12 VDC works. I am working on a bike now...and had the problem on my list of things to do. I decided to try the oil w/ additive method as well as the shocking method.....and to my delight, I now have the thing working properly. I drained the oil and refilled with new oil with the prescribed amount of Seafoam additive as on the products label which is 1 1/2 ounces per quart of oil. I premixed the oil and additive prior to filling the crankcase....and then poured it in.......I then worked the shifter a number times...with a volt-ohmmeter connected to the neutral switch at the connector under the "tank" on the left side. Amazingingly, after shifting in and out of neutral quite a few times the meter started to respond to the switch as it was supposed to be. Not 100%, but indicating that things were changing.......for the better. Then, as long as the switch was unplugged from the rest of the circuitry, I decided to give it the shock treatment. I shifted it into gear. That seemed logical as leaving it in neutral would not seem to make good sense....in that position, there should be continuity at all times...at least when working......so shocking it there would no remove anything...so put it in gear and made a connection....just a quick touch.....it sparked the first time...and then would not spark again.......the meter showed no continuity after shocking it only once. I shifted in and out of neutral and shocked it again...and nothing! This may be only one battle and war may restart, but for now, the advice I receive here saved me time, aggravation and money...and in the process I learned something valuable.

No expert here...but now have had one more successful experience and at least temporary success..................good luck.

 

[joedrum]

cool

 

[normlf]

Good mechanics in every field do much more than remove and replace parts....

In fact, as I saw on a printer's business card many years ago....."We think as well as print!"

As complex as things are today....and even an old Goldwing is a fairly complex mechanism, knowledge and careful thought an analysis are necessary to do things well. I flew airplanes for over 20 years and though "supervised", I did 98% of all my own maintenance and life hung in the balance...so thinking and double checking a analyzing were more important than the work that actually was done. I'm still here and the airplane I sold is still flying and that's been 36 years since I first bought it.......

We think as well as fix....and that IS COOL!

Sometimes odd how non-technical types thing mechanics are neanderthals.....I have been involved in technical things all my life, but made a living doing administrative and people work.....been in both camps and have more respect for a craftsman than a stack of degrees...and I have those too.......

 

[dan filipi]

Agreed.
My wife's cousin has a few degrees and needs assistance changing a light bulb. But then again.......she's retiring at 55, I'll most likely be working til they bury me.

 

[scdmarx]

With such rapidly changing technology, any degree devalues in short order. It represents that you have achieved the knowledge available on the date it was issued. To most mechanics, this means the degree is yesterdays technology by the time he gets to apply that knowledge.

I can not do assembly line work. That is a slow death for me. The challenge of a continuous learning curve is what kept my interest for 30 years. I wish my body would've lasted another 10.

 

[slabghost]

Agreed.
My wife's cousin has a few degrees and needs assistance changing a light bulb. But then again.......she's retiring at 55, I'll most likely be working til they bury me.

Same here my retirement will likely be a burial. :head bang:

 

[normlf]

I've hired and fired PhD's and others with loads of degrees. There are educated people and learned people...and I'd rather have the learned kind every day....I don't care what you did as much as I care what you can do...........results count more than a paperwork trail...

Don't get me wrong, a degree can be very good and valuable, but all education is for is a shortcut to experience.... There is almost nothing that can be learned through experience, it's just that it takes more time. Even doctors and people like that spend a lot of time with ON THE JOB TRAINING....true, they give it a fancier name...but that's exactly what it is.

I've known people of all kinds and I'm not at all impressed with a fancy diploma.....I value productivity and application of common sense that solves problems and gets the tasks done and in a timely manner with a minimum of wasted effort.

Now if you give me someone with a well earned degree who has experiene coupled with common sense...wow...that is powerful...but two out of three just doesn't cut it !