right fairing pocket hondaline

[BP]

is there any way to remove this?

I busted another lock, you might think I'm some type of lock abuser after I busted a lock on my trunk [busted in the 'unlocked' position, so the latch still operates] but the difference here is I can't get by with this lock broken. I have my proof of insurance and proof of registration and protective eyewear that I use when I'm not wearing the helmet, locked inside here. I really want this thing to work as normally, but I am wondering if anyone know a way to get this off so that I can service the lock without breaking anything?

I don't know what actually happened to this lock, it operated smoothly when I left Independence Day party, I rode home, and when I got home tried to open it up to return my glasses to that small storage area, and the key wouldn't go in the lock.

Shortly after this picture was taken, I forced the key into the hole, but I think I also forced a chunk of metal in there and now it won't open [not that it would have opened before].

this is probably related to the fact that the bike sat outside for a while... (previous owner)

and since ATF is the cure-all at CGW, should I coat my key in it and operate each lock a few times to prevent further locks breaking?

 

[Omega Man]

Well if that piece of metal that closes the opening for the key was forced inside ATF will not help. If the lock is toast you may have to just pry it open carefully.

~O~

 

[BP]

Omega Man » Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:46 pm[/url]":2ocraljq]
Well if that piece of metal that closes the opening for the key was forced inside ATF will not help. If the lock is toast you may have to just pry it open carefully.

~O~

I was talking about the other locks that are not broken (yet) for the ATF treatment. Prying it open carefully was already tried... it will require a bit more force than I'm comfortable using, but if it's what has to be done, then it must be done...

 

[dan filipi]

Roncar makes keys. Maybe he has an idea?

 

[BP]

dan filipi » Sat Jul 05, 2014 9:00 pm[/url]":t8pcexjv]
Roncar makes keys. Maybe he has an idea?

I PM'd him a link to this thread as soon as it was posted - just waiting for his opinion!

 

[BP]

I pried it off - just a tiny bit more force than I was using previously - didn't break anything else though.
It came off on the quick-latch side first, not the lock side as-per-usual.

I will now proceed to https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11330 for further lock repair. Doesn't look like I'll need snap-ring pliers. yet.
I'm sure there will be further problems. maybe if I say that then the next part will be easy.

 

[BP]

update

couldn't figure out how to get the lock apart [I brought it in the house] so I just probed a bit (read: stabbed the ever-living s--- out of) with that flat-head sticking off my multi-tool, trying to hold the lock upside down and get the shaving to fall out, rather than open it and manually remove it (my original plan)... I never saw the chunk of metal come out, so my guess is I pushed that metal shaving far enough down that the original key works once again. I figured if I have one lock that doesn't work, what can I lose by poking in it with a screwdriver?

I can only assume that this fairing pocket cover lock is the same as a shelter lock in that it is not made to be disassembled, because I couldn't figure it out, even grabbed that top lip with a pliers and no dice (you can see a few small scars in the image)

I'm comfortable that all it needs is a few drops of ATF and it's ready to go back in. After all I now know that in an emergency situation I can get it open again.

that ATF stuff is really better than duct tape.

if only I could create a water/dust-seal to replace the spring-loaded one which now lives in the bottom of the lock...
wrap the lock in a condom before re-install sounds good at first but the key would shred the rubber with time.
maybe a side-hinged cover (like some trunk locks on a car), using a bottle cap. another time for that though.
ok third idea - a magnet with a soft foam coating on the contact side. I think this will be the easiest way.

but that spring-loaded closer for the key entrance has so far been the death of two locks on my 82, but I'm definitely not doing the probing job on my trunk lock, because there is a clear path to disassembly for that one.

 

[Omega Man]

:good:

~O~

 

[roncar]

Lock construction varied through the years and there are at least 2 types of "doors." One is metal and hinges out of the keys way like most house doors are hinged. The 2 pocket/shelter locks I have, have a plastic door that slides to the side when the key is inserted (like a pocket door.)

Bits loose inside the lock is always a gamble. I have found several locks that locking wafers were mangled and needed replaced. I don't know if the damage was caused by loose bits being in the lock or just gorilla force being used.

I have taken those locks apart before but it ain't pretty. The chrome cap on the front has to come off and it is crimped on, much like the band on the tach and speedo. I'd try using a dental pick or scribe to get as much of the bits out as possible. You already know that you CAN get into the pocket if the lock fails again.

Note: I have a couple of new OEM helmet locks here (in pieces) and they have no door at all.

 

[Joep]

I have had a couple of locks that did that on my 1100... mostly on the trunk.locks... I used a nut meat pick like you get in that set of nut cracker.. and forced it sideways so my key would work the locks.. when it happens that is what I go get to free the slot...

 

[Steve83]

I got brave - or stupid - and took apart a couple of trunk locks to clean 'em up. I managed to get 'em back together, but man, those are some tiny springs in there! My bad eyes didn't help much, and those springs disappear into the cosmic void if they fall to the floor!