Saying Hello...New to Forum...Not New To Wings...

[normlf]

Glad to be with you.

This is my third Goldwing. I owned an 81 nearly 30 years ago and after all these years, just acquired a near duplicate bike a couple of weeks ago. In good mechanical condition, but needing painting, polishing and other TLC. Got a good start with all of the plastic off and in the process of being prepped for painting. A few very minor issues being fixed along the way. Will have it back on the road when warmer weather returns to South Central Wisconsin (Mazomanie).

I do have an issue that is a bit vexing. Neutral light dims but remains on when shifted into gear. I replaced a neutral switch some years ago on a 1979 I owned and though a challenge was able to be done. On the current 81, it looks like it will be much harder and I wonder if it is even possible with the engine still in the frame. Does anybody have any ideas about this problem and if and how the switch could be replaced with the engine in place.

 

[joedrum]

welcome to classic ...its a bitch to change ...and i would not for just a switch ...it wont hurt a thing like it is ....as on the other thread dan has a method

 

[backlander]

Welcome to CGW from southern Arkansas

 

[Placerville]

Welcome from California...

I would recommend putting the 'neutral light' issue on the back burner and move on to other tasks at hand. Your plans for painting sound very worthwhile and I'm sure there are other things that you're going to address, for instance, timing belts. Actually, these should be a priority. If they haven't been replaced in the past 5 years or 25k miles, they need your attention now.

Once you start getting things back together and are riding her regularly, there's a possibility that the neutral light problem may go away. I say that only because I'm guessing that this bike was not ridden much prior to your taking possession. GL's don't like inactivity. When they sit a lot, several minor things start getting gummed up from lack of use like your neutral switch, starter sprag clutch and the like, and it takes some daily use to get them back into proper working order.

After it's ready for the road, consider doing an MMO rinse of the engine. Drain 1 qt. of oil and replace it with one qt. of Marvel Mystery Oil. Then, go for a 100 mile EASY ride, meaning, nothing over 4K RPM. Back at the barn, drain the oil while hot. You might be surprised at what comes out. MMO has a cleansing action that helps remove crud from areas that cause general poor performance. Depending on the results, you may want to do it again. Regarding the neutral switch, continue to ride the bike and you may find that it starts working properly. After a few thousand miles, if the problem hasn't cleared up, you'll need to bite the bullet and swap it out.

 

[cooltech]

Welcome from Oregon

 

[normlf]

Nice to be aboard...thanks for the welcome.

Norm

 

[normlf]

The timing belt issue is on my mind already. I have no idea how long ago the belts were changed and was assuming that it would be wise to change them as a precaution. What is a good source for good quality belts?

Is there any decent way to determine through inspection if the belts need to be replaced....no sense spending the time and or expense of new belts if not needed. Any guidance on this matter would be appreciated.

 

[dan filipi]

I'm with ya, silly to spend the money and time if the belts are in good condition but unfortunately there's no good fool proof way to determine this. Even a belt with small cracks could run trouble free for another 100k miles but it could also break the next time it's started.
Once the belts are off the tensioners can be checked for smooth rolling also.

 

[backlander]

If your really lucky, the PO wrote the date and mileage on the inside of both timing belt covers with a permanent marker. That's what I do when I change my belts. Other than that, I don't know anyway to tell.

 

[normlf]

I'll have to read up on the procedure as I've not done that on the Wing. I can't imagine it would be all that difficult as there isn't a lot involved....but access is another matter......in any case, will pull the covers and have a look......I want to polish those in any case......not really all that bad, but in need of attention.......

Any special things to be concerned about.....I have a manual on disc and there are plenty of web sites too....... What's a good source that has good prices....no need to spend more than necessary.

 

[Steve83]

I got my timing belts at Amazon.com for about $12 each - Gates T-274. They're listed at $14.88 each now.

 

[backlander]

The most important part of a belt change is to check, double check and triple check the alignment of all timing marks during the procedure or your going to bend some valves or worse. Take it slow and pay a lot of attention to detail. Once your finished, do not start the engine without turning it thru several rotations by hand to make sure there is no interference felt.

 

[normlf]

Thanks for that information. I assumed those belts would be much more expensive. At that price, I'll just order them and put them on....good insurance as a broken belt means a broken engine and being stranded...... don't want either as an experience.

 

[AApple]

Welcome to the CGW Forums, normlf!!! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:
Neutral light? Who cares...you should be in 5th most of the time, cruzin down da road! :smilie_happy: :moped:

 

[normlf]

I am a bit fussy....things should work....that comes from flying as a sport pilot for a bunch of years and doing all of the maintenance on my own aircraft.....it it was on the airplane, it had to work as it was designed to do....not only to keep things legal and safe, but as a matter of taking good care of the aircraft.

Some call it PICKY....but then I enjoy the unhurried work on cycles this time of year as the first ride of 2013 is about 70 days in the offing...with any luck.......could be later too.... This one was purchased as a winter project...so have the time to be picky.....but I do get your point.......keep it on the road....garage queens are no fun at all!!!

 

[normlf]

Yours is a very nice looking bike......doubt mine will rise to that level, but being fussy gives me a chance. Also fussy is just another way of saying "paying attention to details". I like the word and the concept of craftsmanship. Often things can be considered well done, but not really fine craftsmanship. From years of woodworking and restoration work and more.....I've concluded that the 5% extra effort (fussy) can move something from well done to being considered real craftsmanship. I need to remind myself that "good enough" ususally isn't.

 

[normlf]

RE: Timing Belts.

I pulled the covers on my 1981 GL=1100I and took a look at the belts. They looked relatively good and no cracks were evident, but they were a bit looser than would be proper....and the idlers are fixed...so some minor stretching was evident. I had ordered the new belts and was going to change them in any case...so inspection was a matter of curiosity only. I ordered the belts from Amazon.com and they were Gates T274 belts..and only $14.88 a piece.....which is a really good price. I bought one 24 inch belt for my snow blower recently and that from an auto supply store....with a discount....and paid nearly that much for a simple V-belt. Also, I am a member of Amazon Prime relatign to a Kindle Fire tablet...and that offers free shipping .... so my net cost was less then $30 for both belts delivered in 48 hours....no hassle. And the belts are perfect for the application....and Gates is well known.... Very easy to change and the procedure is simple, but attention to detail is vital. Botch this up and screw up an engine. No worry as simply reading and following directions make this a no brainer.

Some say you can do this without removing the radiator...and I suppose you could, but the struggle is much worse with it in place. The few extra steps of removing the lower hose of the radiator and the mounting bolts all the way around allows the radiator to stay in the bike, but be pulled away to give much better access. I my case I ran into some excessively tight cap screw on the idler mounts and it was vital to get a very good bite on the inner cap screws....rounding one of those off because of slipping wrench would have been far more work to deal with than moving the radiator. So, I'd recommend doing what I did, but then suit yourself. I found that getting the cap screws that hold the cover in place was relatively easy with a gear wrench box end wrench......took time, but was possible......much easier with the radiator moved.

By the way, the belts from Amazon were much cheaper than from other sources......apparently if they make you think that they are specific to a Goldwing motorcycle...they charge more. Those belts are used for other purposes...so a "generic" is in competitive market and you benefit. If they were some off brand...I'd not risk it, but Gates belts are good quality and from an old line maker.

 

[joedrum]

there a nutruel spot on the cams ...and when timed right ..theres no pressure in this spot from valves this is the best way to tension the belt snugly taunt with about a 1/4" deflection each way ...then do other side ...sounds like previous owner didnt tension them right ..its amazing how this little thing actualy makes it run better

 

[normlf]

No way to be sure, but I sincerly doubt that the previous owner changed those belts....too many signs indicate that it has been many years since it was taken apart...but it has sometime in the past...as some sort of gasket compound had been used to hold the seals in place on the covers...... Besides he was most forthcoming about what he did and didn't do....and it was also evident that he was not much of a mechanic as a few things he mentioned needing attention were very simple to do...yet he didn's seem to know how. He is a college student and was clear that he decided he could not afford to own it.....but then he had a shop replace a bad starter with a new one....so learned quickly that D.I.Y. is a good alternative to very costly work at a Honda dealer.

Even timing belts stretch a bit over time...the slack most likely came from that rather than initial maladjustment, but that's my assessment and not a proven fact.

 

[slabghost]

Timing belts stretch very little if at all. They wouldn't serve their purpose very long or well if they did. I think it's most likely how Joe said. If the book is followed precisely they can easily be a bit loose once they've made full rotation and tension equalizes.