Start button / headlight experiment help

[chilidawg]

I need some help with a wiring diagram Fellas.

See, since going HID, I now realize that the ballasts can't take the on/off/on thing that occurs every time you start the bike, often not coming back on at all for hours.

So my plan is to jump the wires, switch side of the red right hand switch plug. This will effectively keep the light from going out when the button is pressed, that's why I'm calling this an experiment.

However I don't think I'll have any overloading problems because it starts up real quick thanks to the Webers accelerator pump and the HID is only 35 watts.

I have a good alternator and it goes on a tender whenever I put it up, plus starting ought to be easier anyway when the C5 goes on.

The deal is, my old eyes only "think" it's the Blue/White and Black/Red that I have to jump.

Can someone please confirm this for me, many thanks.

 

[dan filipi]

Hmm, really not coming back on for hours?
Makes me wonder now if that's what was going on with my HID.
Interesting that it DOES come back on later. I gave up on mine thinking it was a bad bulb or ballast.

What you're describing to try is worth a shot.

 

[chilidawg]

I am still on the original bulb and I have tried numerous ballasts, they all do the same thing after a few starts.

First I thought it was getting too hot in the fairing, that could still be the issue but I'm trying this before I attempt to place the ballast in the left air vent.

So how old are your eyes?

 

[dan filipi]

I'll have a look at the diagram which wires you'd jump to bypass the start switch.

 

[dan filipi]

To bypass the start button from turning the headlight off when the button is pressed, red/black and blue/white would need connected together. That's per the clymer wiring diagram.

 

[chilidawg]

Perfect, that's what I thought I saw, I could swear to it, at least I thought I could!

I shall get back to you guys tomorrow with the result of my experiment.

Thank you Dan, for your assistance!!

 

[dan filipi]

I'd be curious if that has a good effect on fixing this so I'll try it.

Oh btw, I added the C5 badge to your profile.

 

[chilidawg]

All I need now to install the C5 is, to be able to hear that welcoming "crack" from the three remaining screws surrounding my old coils.

I'm sure that that is the case but.....

I've spent the last 2 years perfecting the Weber, so why do I get a badge for something I haven't done yet, before I get one for something I have!

Hmmm! Just an observation.

I'll get back to you with my findings anyhow!!

 

[dan filipi]

I thought you got a C5. If not then my mistake.
Thanks for mentioning.
You are running a single carb, right?
No way I can keep track of everyone so ya'll gotta let me know.

 

[chilidawg]

I did buy one, but as yet am having difficulty removing my old coils, in order to use it.

But I do feel my entry into the "single carb club" should be affirmed, you can ask Joe or the Brian's, they all know! You just don't ask that kind of questions without having one!

I missed one of the Brian's by yards in NC last year.

It don't appear I have a movie camera that can prove it, or the computer skills to covert what I do have into something this website will accept.

But it really is a done deal.

 

[dan filipi]

Off topic but, you do know you don't need the old coil mounts to mount the C5 coils, right?
They mount with new brackets to the frame.

 

[chilidawg]

That's way beyond where I am right now!

I am, at this point, having real trouble, removing 3 of the 4 old screws that secure the old coils to the frame.

That's where I'm at right now!!

 

[dan filipi]

Hmm, there are 2-10mm bolts that hold the coil aluminum assembly to the frame. Those 2 bolts removed will let the entire coil assembly come out.

 

[chilidawg]

Well I thank you for that, and the badge.

I figured this was something I didn't need to drop the fairing for, but maybe I do, no problem I got the whole Texan Winter to do it

That's the whole reason I hit the bike with 75 cams ain't it, to do it all the easy way, right!

Well after 15 years, about $20,000 and the death of at least 100 GL1100's, I guess I could go that far!!

 

[joedrum]

:BigGrin:....well it best to be a fairing off deal ....trying to do things in limited space also seems to take longer and not be as possible to get right as easy ...i hear ya paul ..been long road for you ...it was for me also ...but that tells the story too ...your no quitter at all ..... :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[dan filipi]

Fairing off to replace coils? No!
There must be more to this story than I remember.

 

[chilidawg]

Okay, getting back on track with this thread.

Initial results are, encouraging.

It #uck!ng works is what I really mean to say!

Hooray! Yahoo!! Git-R-Done!!!

 

[dan filipi]

Let me see if I can understand what's happening here.

In it's stock form, when the key is turned on the headlight comes on.
When the start button is pushed, power is removed from the headlight so it turns off.
Once the button is released, the headlight comes back on.

These actions mean an HID has to re-strike to start after releasing the start button.
Is this re-strike where the problem lies?

 

[chilidawg]

You bet! That's it!

And the ballast can't handle that.

That's where I was going all along.

I really appreciate your additional pair of eyes.

 

[dan filipi]

Ok I see.

This wouldn't apply to the problem I was having because I have a time delay on my HID coming on the first time but useful for others going HID without any timer delay.