Starter Problem Solved - Question about bolt

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Jcol

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My 83 Aspy project bike would not turn over when I tried it earlier in the month after sitting all winter. The starter was getting voltage but it was not drawing any current. There was no starter movement what so ever and there was high resistance between the starter's supply post and ground. Open starter. I found the removal guide here and had the starter out within about 30 minutes. More about the starter removal later. Anyway I disassembled the starter and discovered that there is a connection inside the starter at the brushes that connects a heavy copper wire to the brusher holder assembly. The connection is held in place by a small Phillips screw. There is a connection at each brush holder. Both of my phillips screws were loose. One was almost out of the threads. I tightened the screws and added some Lock Tight and continuity across the start was restored. Starter tested fine when I hooked it up to a test battery. I reinstalled the starter and it is starting the bike fine so I guess the problem has been solved. Just thought I would share. Any way back to the starter removal - when removing the starter I discovered that it was only being held in place by one bolt. The bolt near the drive end is there but the other bolt that goes through the slotted hole in the starter was missing and has been broken off flush with the case. I put the starter back in with the single bolt but I don't like the idea of only 1 bolt holding it in place. I would think that it will probably end up breaking off the remaining bolt. I have a set of Easyout bits and I am hoping that as I drill into the broken bolt it will spin out on its own and save the threads, I've had this happen before however if it doesn't come out I guess it's a drill and tap job. I am a little concerned about doing this as I don't want to go through the block. Has anyone done this before? Any idea how thick or how deep I can safety drill into this hole? I assume that the other bolt would give me an indication of depth? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Someone here had that exact same issue not too long ago....the starter bolt twisted off in the block. Can't remember who it was, but you might find the thread with a search on "Broken Bolt", or something similar...
Gotta get back to werk, or I would search for it for ya...
 
well I can tell you that the meat around that starter bolt whole is about non existence ...I have the same problem with hooch the 77 1200 mod bike ....when I seen that I didn't even try ....if that breaks it would trash the motor oil belly ...there sre much safer ways of holding the starter in ...im really good with stuff like that ...and I didn't ganble that no way
 
Image Description: This is the internal side of the forward (lower) starter bolt on an GL1100, I believe all years 1100 are the same.
Pictured here the engine case half is upside down. :)
image.php


As I remember, the other bolt has plenty of meat behind it.
 
That is the bolt that is broken off. Your picture makes me really nervous about drilling and tapping, not much material there. I think I will try to spin out the bolt fragment with the easy out and if it doesn't come out come up with a plan B. Thanks for the picture Dan.
 
Use heat and cold if possible to free the bolt, there are also some left hand drill bits that work really well. Good Luck
 
Yikes! I can see why you'd be askeert.

I've personally never tried it, but I've heard Bees Wax from the hardware store is the cats meow for loosening stuck bolts. Also, dry ice (used to chill the bolt) is sold at a lot of grocery stores around here now.

If you can find a way to center the drill bit, and drill straight, you can start with a small bit, and patiently step up one size at a time until you remove enough bolt material to just pick the threads out. Starting in the center is what's gonna help you.
 
Let's all think positive, and send good vibes to Jcol! Hopefully, the bolt was over-tightened and just broke - then the remaining part will just spin right out!

:beg: :beg: :beg: :beg: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:
 
I have been guilty of breaking that same :sensored: bolt!

To make things easier on myself, I took the left side exhaust off to gain easier access to everything. There was a substantial amount of distance between the end of the bolt and the end of the bolt cavity so I knew when I was through the bolt. Oh and every time I have tried to use an easy out on any broken bolt, I have only wound up with a broken easy out inside a broken bolt, so I do not use them.

Center punch the bolt to as near dead center as possible. I started with a small bit and worked my way up in bit size gradually stepping up in bit size, until you are still under the size of the bolt hole. I eventually was able to pull the broken bolt out of the hole like a ribbon, so there was no tapping of threads required.

Good luck!
 
I measured the depth of the hole, and it's about 24mm deep, and the bolt is 28mm long. If you were to drill through the case, there is nothing directly behind it but oil, so some sealer on the threads should prevent any leakage.
 
Steve83":wxji1x7y said:
I measured the depth of the hole, and it's about 24mm deep, and the bolt is 28mm long. If you were to drill through the case, there is nothing directly behind it but oil, so some sealer on the threads should prevent any leakage.
That's pretty much was I was thinking also.
 
Steve83":3491k1sp said:
I measured the depth of the hole, and it's about 24mm deep, and the bolt is 28mm long. If you were to drill through the case, there is nothing directly behind it but oil, so some sealer on the threads should prevent any leakage.

How thick is the starter? I seem to remember it being pretty thick.
 
Sorry I haven't been back in a while. The "solved" in the subject was for the starter and finding the loose inside screws at the brush assembly. I thought that might be helpful for someone else. As for the broken starter bolt I hope to tackle that this weekend and I honestly did not break it off - the bolt it was gone when I went to remove the starter. I have a set of reverse drill bits which I hope will do the trick. I'll report back either way.
 

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