starter spins wrong way

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duanes7

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Feb 20, 2010
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georgia
Just got a 76 GL1000 that someone else was working on, plus spare engine, wiring and such from 78. He had the engine rebuilt and said that once he got it all together, the starter would spin but the motor wouldn't. Got mad and told me to "just come get it". I have the engine out, have cleaned the clutch, and spun the start using the battery and some jumper cables. The starter spins the wrong way. I did a search and saw the one string on it.

Can we verify/build a list of the numbers on these starters so we can reference which are correct and not? The end cap of the one I have says Mitsuba SM-243 and it definately is not correct for the GL1000.

There are a few for sale on ebay. Both the sm243 and sm245 are listed as being for the GL1000. Is the 243 wrong and the 245 right? Many other starters are listed but don't actually say what the numbers/manufacturer are.
 
hmm, the spare one I have is a Mitsuba SM 224. It's the one my '83 had on it when I got the bike that turns the correct (clockwise) rotation. You have a good idea but I'm not sure how to go about building the list of numbers that would turn the right direction since the cover could be swapped from other starters.

Welcome to the forums btw. :salute:
 
Thanx.

Yeah, and I was thinking that building a list by number could be trouble if we have correct numbered starters that were rebuilt incorrectly.

Oh well, will ask orginal owner if he has the one from the spare engine as it wasn't attached.
 
Thanks for the welcomes.

Although the starter I have is a SM-244 (the correct one for my GL1000) the brush plate is incorrect.

Both plates have two brush holders - one that is isolated from chassis (positive) and one that is riveted to the plate (negative). Both also have one large notch for the positive terminal wire to pass through. This precludes the idea of extending the wires and swapping the brushes to reverse the motor. Swapping the brushes merely puts the positive brush into the negative holder connected to chassis. Ask me how I know... Direct short anyone... Wow, look at the pretty sparks...

I have my incorrect brush plate out and have compared it with pictures of the correct plate. If you take my plate and orient it with the notch in the plate for the positive wire to the right, the brush holders on my plate are on the bottom with the positive brush being on the right. The correct configuration is with the brush holders at the top and the positive brush on the right.

Since the positive brush is bottom right instead of top right the positive to negative flow is CW at the rear of the starter (CCW at the front) vice CCW at the rear (CW at the front).
 
Just got correct bruch plate. Starter spins CW now and the engine rolls over as well. Yeah!
 
I found a couple of sites that have it listed...
https://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/str ... mtrkit.htm
https://www.nationsautoelectric.com/moto ... ation.html

But ended up getting whole rebuild kit off ebay for about what cyclewareables has the brush plate listed for.

Now the engine spins, but no fuel from the petcock.

Bike hasn't been run in years. One owner ripped it down to use for a trike mod then decided not. Second owner put it back together but couldn't get it to start. Now I have it... getting close to running.
 
duanes7 your realy getting the treatment from a been sitting eo long to move iettis thats taken down two previous po . maybe rig a feul supply up to start it , theres proably carb issues , gas tank issues,spark issues, these things are common on waking a sleeping wing hang in there seems like your doing great!!!!!!!!!
 
Had some other riders at work saying to "just kick start it." I figure if it won't start with the starter, there's no way I will get it to kick start. I also have a fairly steep drive, but if it rolls down and doesn't start I'd have to tow it back up. No thanks.

The engine was supposed to have been rebuilt by the trike project owner (has 37000 miles). All the gaskets, belts and such look new. Pulled one plug and it does spark (it's also brand new). Should probably ensure they all do. The battery was new 2 years ago, but sat around dry and now the plates are toast.

I'm sure I'll at least need to sync the carbs. But I'd like to hear it fire.

Will re-drain the tank tonight and clean the petcock and pickup tubes and peer into the tank to see what shape it's in. Had a little over 4 gallons in it when I got it, but I drained that and put it in my car along with the a top off of premium and a bottle of fuel cleaner. Then put fresh gas into the goldwing tank.
 
I read to pull the plugs, spin the engine for 15 seconds, wait a minute, repeat 2 more times, put the plugs back in and it should fire. She does fire. But only runs for a second or so. Had to "rotorooter" the tank lines just to get the petcock to flow.

Still think it's fuel starved. If I let her sit for 10 minutes or so, she'll fire again.

Guess I need to search on fuel pump prob's. Anyone know how far the pump is supposed to draw fuel up a line? I don't have a pressure gauge.
 
If you had rust problems in the tank then chances are very good that super fine rust buggered the carb jets.
I think you'll have to pull the carbs and clean but the tank problems should be fixed first so more rust doesnt plug them up all over again.
 
i bet its not the fuel pump ,its great that it started your getting close,if i were you id change all the fuel lines, change fuel filter, and realy go over the tank flush it on my 79 theres a drain on the right side. id would proably rig up a alternut fuel supply to the fuel pump and try to start it again first that would answer a lot about whats going on wether its before the fuel pump or after, you just about got it!!!!!!
 

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