Starters - Rebuild them or leave alone?

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mcgovern61

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Location
Kingsport, Tennessee
My Bike Models
Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
Over the course of owning my bike, I have had three engines associated with it; the original seized '82 engine, the knocking '81 (sounds like a diesel) engine and finally the installed (running like a clock don't touch it!) engine. I have accumulated parts from the '81 and '82 engines and came across the starters the other day. The '81 had over 169,000 miles on it and the starter was still turning the engine over fine (just a little dirty). The '82 starter was on an engine that only had a little more than 23,000 miles on it, but sat out in the weather for 12 years straight.

I tested the '82 starter in the '83 engine and it worked! My question is, should I consider rebuilding any of these starters since they are all working good? I am thinking the '81 starter has the most wear and tear and the '82 might only need fresh grease. (I think it is good to have a backup in a pinch!)

The main question is for long term financial planning for maintenance since dollars are hard to come by.

What do ya think?? :headscratch:
 
Yes - rebuild 'em! It's cheap and easy. Kits are on ebay for about $27, and they have new bearings, bushings, brush plates, gaskets... I've done 2 of 'em, and they're working perfectly.
 
It certainly would be nice to have a rebuilt spare on hand. However if they work they might not need more than cleaned and greased. Only way to know that is open one up.
 
Me and starters generally don't get along.
Maybe I work them over too hard with the mods I do taking compression checks and crank crank crank with the carb mods.
This last one I bought new from Stockers, a heavy duty with 4 brushes has been VERY good and spins it over like the plugs are out but if I had spare starters sitting around I would definately crack em open and give them a good going over for spares.
 
I've got three waiting to be rebuilt. The problem is, the one I have on the bike now is supposed to be a different kind, so if this one goes bad, I'm not sure this one can be rebuilt. I better get to rebuilding so I have a spare ready to go when needed.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=111410#p111410:26frqmws said:
slabghost » Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:45 pm[/url]":26frqmws]
rebuild kit for 1100 starter works in the 1200 starter too. Joe did it on Hooch.

Aren't the 1000 and 1100 starter the same also?
 
Definitely worth the effort to rebuild/refreshen them. :good: Not that difficult of a job, either.

 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=111411#p111411:2ba1vj5z said:
brianinpa » Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:52 pm[/url]":2ba1vj5z]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=111410#p111410:2ba1vj5z said:
slabghost » Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:45 pm[/url]":2ba1vj5z]
rebuild kit for 1100 starter works in the 1200 starter too. Joe did it on Hooch.

Aren't the 1000 and 1100 starter the same also?
All the actual starters are the same for the 1000 thru 1200. 1200 has a bigger drive head on it that can be fitted to earlier starters. :builder:
 
If you have an original Mitsuba starter motor, you can do much worse than send it to Stockers starters, stockersstarters.com

They rebuilt my basket case and turned it into something perfect, even replaced the middle field wiring section, all for less than $100.

If you have any that are not Mitsuba, launch them as hard as you can towards the nearest trash can!
 
rebuild is easy and cheap..but if they are working I wouldn't open them up. The only real danger is when you remove the positive cable if you turn the stud at ALL it will break the connection inside..so you must use two wrenches one to hold the lock nut in place the other to loosen the top nut. You may have to grind down a 10mm wrench to get it on the lock nut.

Note even that break can be fixed but it's a PITA to get at and re-solder.

Also the 1000 and 1100 starters are almost the same I forget which one is a little longer, the center cylinder by a few mm's so one is easier to get out and install than the other but both can be gotten out w/o removing anything but the shifter arm..but dropping the rear inner exhaust stud makes it much easier but not required.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=111418#p111418:1ifevk3o said:
slabghost » Fri Feb 28, 2014 7:46 pm[/url]":1ifevk3o]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=111411#p111411:1ifevk3o said:
brianinpa » Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:52 pm[/url]":1ifevk3o]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=111410#p111410:1ifevk3o said:
slabghost » Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:45 pm[/url]":1ifevk3o]
rebuild kit for 1100 starter works in the 1200 starter too. Joe did it on Hooch.

Aren't the 1000 and 1100 starter the same also?
All the actual starters are the same for the 1000 thru 1200. 1200 has a bigger drive head on it that can be fitted to earlier starters. :builder:
This is NOT true.
I just pulled my 1100 starter thinking I could swap the gear head but the 1200 starter's armature is longer to reach the drive gears in the gear head.
 
slabghost":134wehrc said:
That's odd because I think that was Joe's fix on Hooch starter.

Well I don't know.
Maybe he swapped the armature also.
I'm going to see if that can be done.
 

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