stator connectors

[jerseydogg]

I have a new stator that I put on the bike (82). the stator (of course) has the plug, but the other plug (from the bike) has been cut off. (the old stator was hard wired to the bike). I am looking for the "stator plug kit". Does anyone have any suggestions?

All I have to do is put the motor back into "the blue goose" and see what happens.

 

[Ansimp]

I would just use a 3 pin FM or quickcrimp plug kit

 

[brianinpa]

My opinion would be to soldier them back together. Bad connectors are one of the biggest causes to stator failure, so getting rid of the connector rules that out.

 

[AApple]

brianinpa » Sun Jul 05, 2015 6:32 pm[/url]":391oiuy9]
My opinion would be to soldier them back together. Bad connectors are one of the biggest causes to stator failure, so getting rid of the connector rules that out.

+1 I cut the connector off my new stator wires, and soldered them to the harness wires.

 

[jerseydogg]

I'll be pulling the motor back out at the end of the summer, pulling everything off the frame, cleaning, painting and going back up with everything.

 

[mcgovern61]

Since I installed my new 3 wire plug and filled it with dielectric grease, it is working like a champ and not overheating. I too pull the engine when needed and can't stand cutting the wires each time. The plug I used is the same as OEM from Vintage Connections.com:

https://vintageconnections.com/

 

[Denver]

Look up European electrical type connectors, they fasten with screws, & can be taken apart easily, break to the size you need. If you use five instead of just three, you can leave a space in between for cooler connections, a HUGE problem with ANY three wire plug. Wired mine with expensive solid Brass connectors, locking plastic plugs, just like the factory ones, & dielectric grease, to stop any corrosion, looked FANTASTIC, just like stock, only brand new, & the brass connectors were better than the stock ones. Melted just like the factory ones which looked great when i bought the bikes, so far the E C connectors, have worked well for several hundred miles, or more, on my latest purchase.4-5 hundred miles at a time gets them VERY hot, & cooks ANY other type connection but soldering, which i've done on my other two, but haven't done the stator on the newest one yet, so tried the new to me connectors.

 

[aussiegold]

mcgovern61 » Mon Jul 06, 2015 2:06 pm[/url]":3ijkdgly]
Since I installed my new 3 wire plug and filled it with dielectric grease, it is working like a champ and not overheating. I too pull the engine when needed and can't stand cutting the wires each time. The plug I used is the same as OEM from Vintage Connections.com:

https://vintageconnections.com/

this really is how to do the job properly. in my opinion. :BigGrin: soldering the wires together does away with any chance of plug connections corroding, but so does dielectric grease. also , easier to test a stator ( using the multimeter points on the plug terminals ) and also removing the engine is a matter of unplugging it. no need to re solder.
i use that grease on every plug i can find and have no problems. its the ducks guts..... :Egyptian:

 

[Ansimp]

The heat that everyone mentions is not caused by lack of cooling or wiring too close together. 20+ year old crimp connections eventually get tired and dont make as tight contact as originally, once the connections get loose ittermittent shorting or sparking through jumping a minute air gap causes the connections to heat up. As time goes on this gets worse and you eventually get melting of the housings. I use these types of connectors all the time with higher current flowing through them than a GW stator phase produces without any problems. I have also replaced many of these connectors over the years when they are failing, corroded or loose and have never had problems with the new replacements. I do solder the roll crimps to the wires which reduces poor connections and cuts down on corrosion in the wiring ( old marine habits ) :good:
Dialectic grease or a lanacote barrier ensures low corrosion connections :yes:

 

[Denver]

All great advice, did every thing mentioned, & made sure everything was CLEAN!!! This was with a brand new stator installed. Mine had plugs like factory ones, thought this will take care of the problem, the one silver colored & others copper was the reason the thing had issues to begin with. WRONG damn thing did it all over again. Do you often run through a full tank of fuel, & one or two fill ups in a single ride? AS EVERYONE of my plugs looked like new as far as melting when bikes were purchased, just dusty inside. Cleaned, packed with dielectric grease, thought all was well, WRONG, melted both my 1200's plugs twice, soldered & shrink wrap after that with good results. Tried the euro type connectors that a friend of mine gave me, said they worked well if you wanted to take apart. Didn't need it then, but used it with my newest standard, as have not changed it's stator yet.

 

[aussiegold]

Denver » Mon Jul 06, 2015 10:38 pm[/url]":21gm078h]
All great advice, did every thing mentioned, & made sure everything was CLEAN!!! This was with a brand new stator installed. Mine had plugs like factory ones, thought this will take care of the problem, the one silver colored & others copper was the reason the thing had issues to begin with. WRONG damn thing did it all over again. Do you often run through a full tank of fuel, & one or two fill ups in a single ride? AS EVERYONE of my plugs looked like new as far as melting when bikes were purchased, just dusty inside. Cleaned, packed with dielectric grease, thought all was well, WRONG, melted both my 1200's plugs twice, soldered & shrink wrap after that with good results. Tried the euro type connectors that a friend of mine gave me, said they worked well if you wanted to take apart. Didn't need it then, but used it with my newest standard, as have not changed it's stator yet.

cant explain any of this. i just know i have had no problems. if the soldering way works for you then that is good. :good:

 

[Denver]

Couldn't explain or understand myself why other than the fact the stator puts out way more than needed power to charge battery & run everything, & sends a huge amount of current to ground. :headscratch: Checked current years ago & think each leg of stator produced 6 volts, x 3 =18 volts A C, then changes to D C if memory is right & had it right in my understanding, = TOO much heat, for plug :heat: . Never understood electricity & all very well, just enough to get by, & often just a lucky guess. :thanks:

 

[ekvh]

I had one soldered as suggested. Checked my other bike and it was clean and gahgeous, no sign of corrosion or heat. Used dielectric grease and reassembled. Working on something different a month later, it looked like it was getting warm. Pulled it apart and it was close to melting through. Not sure why, but it may have been that I used dielectric grease in the joint tabs, not just on the wire entrance sides of the connectors. I have since read that the grease only goes on the outside to keep water out. It may have been that pulling the connector apart to check them, stressed the copper strands where they go into the connectors?.? I await collective wisdom.

 

[slabghost]

connections need to be tight. Maybe if you had tightened the female connectors the issue would not be present. For some reason the best metals for conducting electricity are all pretty soft.

 

[Denver]

Gold is supposed to be the best

 

[dan filipi]

slabghost » 37 minutes ago[/url]":3b5kal85]
connections need to be tight. Maybe if you had tightened the female connectors the issue would not be present. For some reason the best metals for conducting electricity are all pretty soft.

Being a commercial and residential service electrician for over 35 years I can tell you that many many problems can be avoided with periodic service of electrical connections.
Especially true in high amperage circuits.
Motorcycle DC circuits are expected to carry amperage with relatively small wire and really not very good connection points with the plug in pressure fit connectors.
Any time solder on and clamp down connections can be used, is that much better but even then they require periodic maintenance.

 

[Denver]

That's what my friend told me about the European type connectors, they work pretty well, solder is better, but if you want ability to disconnect, this is your best bet. :clapping: He also told me some very BAD news, new stator will eventually suffer the same fate as the old one!!! :Awe: The reason is all stators are in a hot & pretty dry place, splashed by, but not IN any oil, little more friendly place than an air cooled motor, but still way too hot. :heat: Long rides are especially hard on them. :doh: That's why 1500's have alternator like a car, out in the air, even if it's inside of plastic body panels, still a lot better for its longevity. :yes: Miss his council, passed away in March, he had a good shop, & he was too honest for his own good. Great guy, really enjoyed our times together spent working on bikes in his shop, way too short a friendship. He was only 60, guess the good really do die young. :cry God Speed My Friend :salute:

 

[slabghost]

Denver » Wed Jul 08, 2015 5:40 pm[/url]":1t4ccqku]
That's what my friend told me about the European type connectors, they work pretty well, solder is better, but if you want ability to disconnect, this is your best bet. He also told me some very BAD news, new stator will eventually suffer the same fate as the old one!!! The reason is all stators are in a hot & pretty dry place, splashed by, but not IN any oil, little more friendly place than an air cooled motor, but still too hot. Long rides are especially hard on them. That's why 1500's have alternator like a car, out in the air, even if it's inside of plastic body panels, still lots better for its longevity.

I suppose that's a debatable point. Many of the stators have lasted over 30 years and still serve well. On the other hand the alternators need repair or replacement within ten years mostly. It's generally easier to replace an alternator because it's external but longevity I think is with the stator.

 

[Denver]

also easy to replace brushes, & bearings, to make like new again, & lot cheaper most times. you don't run the bike all year, so multiply alternator years by at least 4 oh2:

 

[ekvh]

Another theory contributing to their demise is oil byproducts adding to heat build up. Regular oil flushes, or MMO, or ATF right before oil changes might help.