stator helllll...p!

[crowesnest3]

think last year posted a dead stator problem and was "mothballing" til a later time better to do tear down to replace stator ..... along comes this spring, needed to move her to a new address so I decided it wasn't but 10 miles away so I charged up battery knowing I could go that far just on battery. Fired up on the first push of the button, ran like a top ..... I had just finished a large list of tune up and maintenance projects just before the "stator" problem. Decided to "band aid" the situation by piggy backing a yard tractor battery to the system to up the amps in the bank so to speak, so now I'm getting some road time in ....... NOW, I decide to revisit the stator wiring and notice that my cheepy radio shack meter was giving me all sorts of off the wall readings! So went out and bought a new meter, better meter ... $25 anyway .... recheck the stator lines, the infamous 3 yellow fellows ... SO HERE IS THE QUESTION: new tester shows all yellow fellows pass the continuity test ( beep!), nobody fails the to the ground test and all but two combinations 1 -2 and 3 - 1 ( 17 - 20v ) show an out put of 55 - 60v @ 3000 rpm. Upon reconnecting the infamous three and checking for voltage input to battery @ 3000 rpm I only show 12.6 - 12.8, should be 13.5 - 14, yes? So, is the stator cooked? slightly overdone? or is there another place I should be looking to such as the regulator? Is there a test for the regulator? ..... or do I need to bother? I will add here, with some embarrassment, the yellow fellows all have "crimp/paddle type connectors. did do away with original white block last year. I did solder connect 3" extensions to receiving end and I did id the original connections to each other ......... am I at least getting a "trickle charge" to the point keeping the band aid connected will at least get me thru the summer? Got no plans to ride out to Sturgis anyway! :help: :doh:

 

[joedrum]

it could be rugulator rstifier yes but it could still be stator ...as joel stator was reading ok in the continuety test also heck his thread is here and you sould read it ...someone will post it im sure it will help you

 

[crowesnest3]

................. did just stumble across a test sequence for the reg/rec which I'll try to get to tomorrow ........ the low voltage input from the two combo's are a concern, but , me, I'm just another guy lost in the jungle! ......

 

[dan filipi]

Sounds like the stator has a bad winding with those readings.

 

[AApple]

nobody fails the to the ground test and all but two combinations 1 -2 and 3 - 1 ( 17 - 20v ) show an out put of 55 - 60v @ 3000 rpm.

You should have 50+ A/C volts on EACH of the three yellow wires with the engine running, checking from each wire to another one. However...in my case, mine were ALL putting out over 60v A/C with it running, but it still wasn't charging the battery. I had to replace the stator....so...in my opinion, even if you did have the full 50v+ on the yellow wires, that does NOT mean the stator is good.
You can ohm out the regulator...that's about it. You can disconnect the black wire from the R/R, and see if the charge voltage increases. If it does, the R/R is faulty(according to the Honda Service Manual). Check the connector at the R/R(under the top shelter..you'll have to take the shelter off), and make sure the terminals are in good condition.
If you haven't already, read thru my thread on this...it's only a couple of weeks old, and it has EVERY possible test there is to determine stator health. Mine was showing a short to ground, but all of the other tests pointed to the stator being ok.
Dagnabbit!!! (stator failure)

12.8 will not keep the battery charged for long riding...you're only putting in .3 volts.

 

[crowesnest3]

Dan ..... would that be the 2 low volt inputs of the low charge rate? Could it still be a reg/rec issue? ..... or am I still SOL? .....

 

[joedrum]

id read apple thread ...rugulator rectifier ...being bad is your only hope ....

 

[dan filipi]

Check continuity on all 3 yellows to ground.
There should be none.

 

[joedrum]

look for where the wires looks burnt ...that will indicate where the stopage is in flow of charging id say if everything else is reading good ..wouldnt hurt to try and upgrade all connections and give it a go first before final verdict

 

[mike in idaho]

Are you sure the rectifier is working? Here is a low buck work-around using Radio Shack parts, probably about Ten dollars including wire and connectors: https://home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb ... ifier.html

 

[AApple]

But that only takes care of the rectifier part...the regulator and rectifier are in the same component. How would the above "work around" be wired into the regulator part?

 

[dan filipi]

But that only takes care of the rectifier part...the regulator and rectifier are in the same component. How would the above "work around" be wired into the regulator part?

opcorn:

 

[mike in idaho]

I doubt if you could wire it into the original regulator. I would rather spend $10 on parts to verify that the stator was actually dead before I spent all that time and money to replace it. Here's a circuit for a three phase regulator: https://home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb ... Field.html

 

[backlander]

It's all very simple, the stator has one job, making 3 phase AC, that's it. It can't do anything else.

1.Cut the three yellow wires into, don't try to check thru connector, check voltage output between 1-2,1-3,2-3. should read at or near 50-60 volts each pair. If you get less than that, if you get say 40 volts or less it's started it's downhill decline and it's just a matter of time, and the stator is not going to get any better, only worse.

2.Check seperately each yellow wire to gound, if you get continuity, stator is shorted to ground. It's junk.

The whole moral of this story, is do the stator test first, if it test good, then it's good. The r/r is not going to make it good or bad.

 

[AApple]

Imma learnin here...
SO...if one was to build the rectifier, simply as a short term tester of sorts for the stator, what sort of DC voltage would it put out(IF it was in good shape)? Would it be safe on the battery, or would you still need some sort of regulator to keep the voltage from going so high it fries the battery? OR...are we simply looking to see if the stator is capable of producing a nominal(14?) amount of DC voltage after the rectifier? :thanks:

 

[backlander]

imma been doing the same thing. This is the best info I have found on the subject and answered all my questions. Go to www. rotordesign.com/goldwing/goldwingtech/electrical#stator and read these four short articles. It's really interesting and doesn't take very long to read.

1. Charging system diagnostic procedures
2. GL1000/1100/1200 Stator testing procedures
3. Permanent Magnet Alternator Fundamentals
4. Installing Aftermarket Alternator Assessories

I gurantee you will have a better understanding. It surely helped me. :laptop: