Stering stem bearing/race install

[Pony Ruiz]

It has been awhile since I worked on my 80 bike. time to get the stearing stem back together.

I installed the bearing on the stem - had a pipe that worked perfectly.

on to the races (no pun intended). I want to get it right the first time so checking in here for any input/tips/warnings etc.etc....!

I've come across and researched a few methods to get the races in.

I bought these https://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-b ... 95853.html
but not sure they are the ticket. one fits but only half way down in the race. wondering if it needs to bottom out so it is square. Or if when one hits/taps on it, it will seat in the race and not pull it to one side (bad).

I don't have the old races to use as a tool....

I've read folks using a two by four to get them in - but I'm assuming they need to go past the tube end to seat/sit flush - so that works up to a point. Then what? use a punch? not my favorite.

I checked out a few vids on youtube and one guy had a tool that pulled both races into the neck tube.
kinda like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Steerin ... +installer

kinda $pendy

I've heard some that use the stem/bearings to pull the races in tight - not sure this is good for the bearings though.

maybe i could make one up using the h.f tool like this
https://www.amazon.com/Jims-Steering-Hea ... +installer

I know about freezing the races and warming up the head tube.



thanks.

 

[joedrum]

sheesh im not sure pony ,,it one of those deals that seem to be different every time

 

[skiri251]

When I did mine (taper roller upgrade), I think I just used large enough steel pipe or socket to drive the races in. That way the stress is more spread than a punch.

 

[Ansimp]

skiri251 » Tue Oct 01, 2013 12:48 am[/url]":hs08s2e9]
When I did mine (taper roller upgrade), I think I just used large enough steel pipe or socket to drive the races in. That way the stress is more spread than a punch.

+1 :good:

 

[Steve83]

The races are not an extremely tight press fit, they come out and go in with light taps. I used a punch, a large socket and a small hammer, working around the race, and they went in easily.

 

[Pony Ruiz]

Ok cool.

I hope they go in easier than it was taking them out.!

thanks

 

[Pony Ruiz]

got them in. I used the harbor freight tool to tap them in.
just to make sure I used a pc. of allthread and the h.f. tool - one on each end - nut and washer and tightened it up.

now I have to do the tightening sequence on the bearing adjustment nut.
I don't have the proper tool so i reckon I have to make one out of a socket (?) There are two of the slotted nuts. Prob. two sockets.

Honda factory manual says tighten to the proper torque value(bearing adj. nut) but does not list the value in the discussion. I don't see it in the torque value list either.

how tight is tight?
anybody got a link to a thread regarding this procedure? gonna look now......

thanks

 

[Steve83]

The torque setting for the adjusting nut is 11 Ft. Lbs. The torque specs are in the "General Information" section of the Frame and Suspension chapter of the service manual.

GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 12-3

• WindNWing
• Oct 16, 2012

 

[Pony Ruiz]

thanks Steve,

lol, just before I read this I opened my manual to that very page. I was looking in the front of the book

onward and upward!

i am a little concerned about the bottom bearing on the stem. I drove it home pretty good. It doesn't spin as freely as on another steering stem I have. I am wondering if I jammed it against the dust washer -causing some friction. Or, is it just the fact that it is a new bearing and they are stiffer? Book says to seat the bearing - wondering if they mean pull it home on the stem by tightening the bearing adjusting nut. seems like that would be a lot of force....

if that is the case - maybe I have to redo / start over?

the whole thing just hand tight in the head tube does not spin on its own with a little help. I have to move it.....

there is a first / second time for everything.....

 

[Pony Ruiz]

tried the other stem I have. couple taps with the screwdriver on the bearing nut. same as the other one. there is some friction - will not spin freely.

I thought they were supposed to spin/drop to one side with a little push.

won't do that hand tight....

am i wrong?

thanks

 

[C5Performance]

I know it's too late to help you but I have a tool that not only presses out old races, but installs new ones using a threaded rod so the new race never is subject to stress from being pressed in crooked.
The tool comes with a big selection of pucks to fit any size bearing.

If anyone is performing this task in the future let me know.
This is a professional set of tools for a dealership and they work awesome.

 

[skiri251]

Pony Ruiz » Tue Oct 01, 2013 6:57 am[/url]":1celzkmt]
tried the other stem I have. couple taps with the screwdriver on the bearing nut. same as the other one. there is some friction - will not spin freely.

I thought they were supposed to spin/drop to one side with a little push.

won't do that hand tight....

am i wrong?

thanks

Maybe the "couple taps with the screwdriver on the bearing nut" is too tight?
What happens if you loosen it a bit?
If the stem rotates freely w/o a play, that's what you want. (Then I think you need to tighten it a bit from that point.)

 

[Pony Ruiz]

thanks anyway C5- there might be a next time...

I did a little more research and found this,
https://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorc ... cking.html

service bulletin says the final torque on the bearing nut (1st one) can be approximated by hand tightening after an over torquing sequence.

https://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorc ... SL126.html

i have not done the sequence yet but hand tight seems about right.

don't know where the honda manual comes up with 11ftlb. granted the manual is for an 80 bike and the other is for a 1000. Anything other than hand tight - the stem moves but is stiff.