stripped altenartor rotor bolt

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crowesnest3

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83 gl1100 interstate ....... picked her to rebuild last year, just got around to it couple of weeks ago, she did fire up after sitting for @ 3 years and ran pretty well done the road, tore her down to detail/ tune/ maintain/ sell, go to adjust valves by bringing to TDC with the rotor nut on the genny/stator .... it just spins but does not turn the crank! Thought things a little odd when notice that the "cover" had a hole in it and a 12mm bolt head stiking out of it, spun the cover off using a screwdriver to notch the edge and spin it. Removed to access the 17mm, the 17 ( going clockwise) just spins as if stripped, does nothing to the crank, the 12mm going into the 17mm shaft ( is this normal?) is tight against the 17mm nut and just spins the 17mm. Thinking I'll go to plan "b" to turn the crank to adjust valves, either rear wheel in 5th or pull the timing belt covers and use the crank bolt in front. Made no wierd noices running down road a couple of miles, guy I got it from only rode it a little but did have it serviced and knew of no problems other than getting left outside for a couple of midwest winters uncovered! ..... no beauty queen! but retrievable ........ so how big a problem do I have and/or is this a case of if its not broke don't fix it!? ......... Crowe ...... :Egyptian: ....... I'm back
 
I have a rear cover if you need one with a good plug,bolt in the hole like it is supposed to have. The bolt rotating in the stator is not good. :Awe:
 
.............. so its basically a stator replacement process without replacing the stator, so, if I pull engine out, pull cover off, is this just about replacing a stripped bolt, probably re tapping the threads or is it more? Now, excuse me for going to a fixed but not really scenario, BUT, what if the nut got stabilized/ locked in position from spinning by say a J Weld application? Not how its supposed to be done or thats just not even going to help? To be honest, not really interested in pulling engine out of bike I'm looking to pass on, already have my first 80/1100 with a bum stator that I'm pretty sure I'm going to fix one day cuz I really like that bike and had it since 99, have and am riding an 84 Interstate andI'm also working on an 81 Interstate I picked up to redo and flip, that one will be a nice ride when done in next couple of weeks. ...... nothing has changed I still ramble on ..... will a half ass repair work or is this just a parts bike? It did run down the road pretty damn well for not moving for 3 years!~...... Crowe .... :Egyptian:
 
Welcome back, Crowe!!

The 12/17mm bolt is a one-piece part, and yours is either stripped, broken, or the alternator shaft threads are stripped. It holds the heavy rotor in place, and is supposed to be torqued to 58-65 ft-lbs, it's a major fastener. The only way to do it right is what's been mentioned before, there's no way JB Weld will hold up here. Sorry for the sad news...
 
If it's a bolt into stator shaft n it needs to be torqued to @ 60lbs wouldn't you have to lock down the stator from spinning to torque it down .... Can't it be spun out with out pulling whole block? I've gotta look at a picture/schematic of this to better understand ... Always good to learn something new ... In this case thinking rather not have to learn something new! ... Crowe :Egyptian: bu
 
I don't think the bolt will fit through the hole in the cover. If it was actually poking through the cap plug, it might have simply backed out and can be screwed back in. Put the bike in 5th gear, have someone stand on the rear brake pedal, and torque it down. The bolt and shaft are hardened steel, so it wouldn't strip easily.
It's #10:
GL1100 80-83 Parts Manual Page 126

GL1100 80-83 Parts Manual Page 126

 
I'd get tap and die and chase the threads on both then use a magnet to assure no filings are left in side to interfere with the bolt.
 
......more details n thots ...... the " plug" which should have a 17mm cast nut on its face does not have that anymore, hence the reason I had to cut notches with a screw driver into the edge and spin it off with the screwdriver. It appears that the smaller 12mm bolt head ground its way thru?!? Its just aluminum. Steve didnt think bolt would come thru casing, that should be no problem. After checking on some specs, I find that in order to torque that bolt you need to use a " rotor holder", assume gotta use same to untorque it. Question: if engine is in gear will this be enough to hold the rotor to tighten or loosen that bolt ..... in the frame ......? Haven't tried it but maybe its not that it is stripped, which would be quite a failure for the entire hardened steel bolt to pull out all its threads and still remain seated, but, my trying to torque it and it seems to only spin is that the rotor face is spinning really since it is supposed to be locked down torque it .... the gears on the rotor shaft are to turn the rotor via the crank or are they also part of the starter/ crank sytem? Will putting it into gear hold the rotor? .......... somebody mentioned they had a spare rotor nut cover, think I might like to parlay with him for his spare ..... of course if this is kinda all for naught ..... gotta pull block out or its gonna blow .... not gonna be picking up any more parts for this one, it'll have to go "as is"? ....... Crowe ..... :Egyptian:
 
ok i had one just like you decribed it is not striped ... it wont beat hole through cap if it has place to go ... on mine i was able to retighten bolt and replace cap ... from earlier post i thought the bolt was broke ... you are probably fine do what ever but torque the bolt good ...it has been done many times the way people have suggested ...your good i think
 
The bolt screws into the alternator shaft, and its flange holds the rotor in place. The rotor is splined to the shaft, so it can't spin freely. The shaft is geared directly to the crankshaft, so with the bike in gear - 5th is best - and the rear wheel locked, you can tighten the bolt.

The "rotor holder" can only be used with the rear cover removed. Also, the rotor nut cover is the same part that is used on other Honda bike engines as valve tappet adjuster covers, and are easily and cheaply available.
 
.............. thanks all for the input, hope to get back to it later tomorrow. It does sound more hopeful than it did originally. I will post the next chapter and let all know how it turns out. Really haven't been enjoying the idea of walking away from a repair, I just don't have the time to get into a full engine pull right now, hoping to move out of state by end of summer and not looking to be moving with a parts bike in tow ..... got way toooooo much stuff as it is! ..... Crowe... :Egyptian:
 
.............. got back to the 83 this afternoon, not feeling very encouraged about the potential problem of this spinning stator rotor bolt, but not ready to give up yet! I started again by putting her in gear and spinning the nut with the rachet, still spun .... so then I tried backing it out, thinking if its shot what the hell, maybe figure out if its a snapped bolt or stripped, then come up with a plan B. Spun but wouldn't back out either!! So now I tried a vice grip on the 12mm nut and a small pry bar thinking I'll encourage it out? No such luck here either. Wondering if the nut base is larger than the cover opening by just a tiny bit? NOTE: I pulled the battery box out of the frame which really lets you get at all of this a little easier............. So now I'm speaking in lot of "french" terms and thinking how much too ask for a parts/project bike really torn down? One last ditch effort, WTF, got out my impact wrench, small one, and because the battery box was out I could get it connected with an extention and the articulated bendy thing on the socket. Damn if it didn't spin a little then drove the bolt home or at least it won't go any further and I gave it a real good going after! Took her out of gear and now I can spin the crank like I should! Proceeded to adjust the valves which is where all of this started! Happy day!!! MAYBE? seems all is good, BUT the bolt head 12mm protrudes further out of the case than it should. Cannot get an intacked cover on it, so going to put the cover that came off of it back on that has a hole in it which I suspect was cut into it by the 12mm ........WAIT ONE MINUTE, now thinking about it that hole is double the size of the 12mm nor is it perfectly round which if the result of the rotor bolt boring thru it wouldn't be any bigger than the 12mm and symetrically round. Previous owner told me the previous owner had done the stator, wondering now if he/they didn't get the rotor to completely seat hence the bolt head sticking out, hence he/they actually cut the opening into the cover/plug???? for clearance??? That would be a good one! .... Me, I'm going to continue with my intended rebuild and refresh for the market, should have a pretty nice 83 interstate available by the end of the month, its a plan anyway ...... Crowe .... :Egyptian: ....... thanks all for the input
 

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