Upgrading the 1983 Rear master cylinder

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=126048#p126048:1k94pob0 said:
dan filipi » Sat Jul 19, 2014 10:52 am[/url]":1k94pob0]
I have the old MC out.

Rod length is the same.
Total travel is about the same at 1/2".

Bolt up to frame is all together different but I expected that.
My plan right now is making an adapter plate from 1/4" steel.

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First up, pull the muffler for working room.....
From here it looks like a "V" shaped steel or aluminum plate would work well. Point of of the V facing down and using the 2 existing holes to mount it to, then 2 new holes on the plate to match the new MC...
Nothing is ever as easy as armchair repairs though.
 
Finally found some time and got somewhere on this.

Had a new braded line made with a banjo end to a new fitting on the splitter end.
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Test fit:
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I went with a new line because the hex head fittings on both ends are chewed up from prior removals and if this $11 master cylinder doesn't work, most others use banjo on that end anyhow so I'll be ready.

Next to mount up the mc.....
 
Oh btw, this line cost me $35 plus tax custom made and I had the local hydraulics shop I used write down the fittings, orientation, and length to keep on file if anyone should want to go this route in the future.
Let me know and I'll have one made up for you and sent out after you send me $35 plus tax and shipping. Probably about $45 total.
 
Can you tell me the type/size/thread pitch on the fitting that goes in the proportioning valve or splitter or whatever its called please. There are some eBay sellers which make custom lines which might be cheaper for me to order from since we have no sales tax, but I'm not sure of that fitting. I need to order a custom line from rear caliper direct to proportioning valve, had to take out the hard line there.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=128629#p128629:3fzo0oll said:
dan filipi » Fri Aug 15, 2014 3:44 pm[/url]":3fzo0oll]
I don't know the fitting sizes since I just brought everything to the guy and he set me up.
Sorry.

" I had the local hydraulics shop I used write down the fittings, orientation, and length to keep on file if anyone should want to go this route in the future."

What did they write down then? You don't know? :crying: I tried hardware stores for a brass 90, they didn't have the right threads. I bought one but if I use it, it'll trash these threads.
 
its amazing how they thread things now to keep regualar people from doing stuff ...i find this as just plain dirty play ... by the most stupid and ignorant people ... it has taken a month or so to get a line in the hole .... who knows how much good stuff gets trashed thats easily fixed ... over this kind brain dead thinking people of the do nothing and no value to anything crowd
 
Your local machine shop supply will have thread gauge's to read thread, metric & S A E #. Harbor Freight for micrometer to read bolt size, & you too can know what size bolt & thread,you have. Hope this helps :popcorn: :wave:
 
If you guys are talking about the banjo bolt,its 10mm,dont remember the pitch,but its common for jap applications.iirc it can be bought at auto parts stores
 
I wouldn't risk using any sort of 'hardware store fittings' on brake line stuff.
Hydraulics are under high pressure and the fittings are designed to hold up.
I have seen brass fittings in plumbing installs split under much less pressure.

For reliability personally I'll pay the extra $ for the right part from a reputable supplier.
Online China cheap has no place here IMO.
Save money somewhere else on the bike besides brakes.
 
"Online China cheap has no place here IMO."

It's kind of what this thread is all about isn't it? OP's master cylinder made in China...cost less than $20...

Its not about saving money for me, its about getting her on the road with what little money and limited resources I've had.

I can't afford to go buy more tools just to see the size bolt i need, and its not drveable to where i can take it in to get measured.

I found a seller that makes custom Goldwing lines, he'll know...waiting on his reply.
If it failed I have a front brake on its own line also. I've ridden full time on bikes with only one brake so it's not going to freak me out or cause a crash if one failed. I cruise safely, not racing... At the speeds I go most of the time I could ride with only engine braking, all three could fail and I'd still be OK.
 
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