voltmeter-why such low numbers?

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wilcoy02

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gl1100-- I had the original voltmeter on the bike. It always read 10 v. Got a digital readout with an ambient temp on the side.

Hooked up the digital wires from where the old meter was run--fairing harness. I am getting almost the same reading as the old one.

With key turned on I get 11.5 volt on the digital _____checking the battery with a meter I get 12.16v
key on to start engine 9.8 ____________________ checking the battery with a meter I get 11.83
engine running @2000rpm 12.0 __________________ checking the battery with a meter I get 14.31


Any suggestions on how I can get the digital to read more accuratly?
I hate tro run a wire from battery throught the fairing hole to get wire to the gauage in case I need to take fairing off.

Thanks for any input.
 
First, check and clean the connection between the fairing and main harness, and make sure the grounds are good. There are also several more connections that could be causing a voltage drop, but the fairing must come off to get to them, they're behind the inertia weight. Check the fuses for tight, clean contacts.
 
Voltage drop! As Steve said all the connections are important to be clean and tight. 30 year old ignition switches do get tired as well, this is my main reason for doing relay circuit upgrades to these old girls.
 
Ansimp":1z3zdpyx said:
Voltage drop! As Steve said all the connections are important to be clean and tight. 30 year old ignition switches do get tired as well, this is my main reason for doing relay circuit upgrades to these old girls.

+1
 
from the battery it is reading good. So where can I run a wire from to the voltmeter that is in the gauge cluster on the fairing?

I have so many wires coming off the battery terminal I hate to put another wire there.

original wire from the bike, alternator, battery tender, haeted grips, and heated jacket.

5 wires already on the battery terminal.
 
wilcoy02":3mpb3mj8 said:
from the battery it is reading good. So where can I run a wire from to the voltmeter that is in the gauge cluster on the fairing?

I have so many wires coming off the battery terminal I hate to put another wire there.

original wire from the bike, alternator, battery tender, haeted grips, and heated jacket.

5 wires already on the battery terminal.
Can't say for sure, I haven't looked into it.

If your voltage really is that low at the gauge, it would be a good idea to find out why since low voltage could affect spark and lighting intensity.
Connecting a digital volt meter where the gauge connects would tell the story.
 
Lowered voltage also has the affect of causing the circuit wiring to draw MORE current which will make the problem worse over time as the wiring and connectors heat up and continue to corrode causing an ever loosening connection.
 
do you think replaceing the fuse box with a blade type fuse box would help this problem?

When the alt conversion took place I did go through the connections and clened them and used electric grease on all the connections.

At times I think it is time for a newer bike.
 
wilcoy02":54dccwbb said:
do you think replaceing the fuse box with a blade type fuse box would help this problem?

When the alt conversion took place I did go through the connections and clened them and used electric grease on all the connections.

At times I think it is time for a newer bike.
Just need to check the voltage at different places.
This way you can narrow down the problem.

On my bike, after replacing the fuse panel with blade type the lights got noticably brighter.
 
image.php
 
Nice install Dan. Did you use a relay to feed the fuse box from the ignition or is it battery fed and always on?
 
wilcoy02":22k6u3uo said:
Thanks Dan.
Looks like i will do the same.
I found a nicer looking fuse panel I might change mine out to eventually,

(Click on the pic for the web site link)
 

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