slabghost
Well-known member
Might just need a washer on the crank bolt to tighten it all up with the alt. drive pulley on there.
What should I do about the 83 engine?
- Thread starter wilcoy02
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Did all the checks that were suggested .thanks. All ok compression around 142 and all consistant.
Started checking with stethascope. sounded like a big crack at the left idler pully so off that came
idler seemed ok . Started messing with the cam pulley had a 1/4 in play with the belts on .and would clanck every time moved back and forth . The crank shaft pulley was loose. gave up and quit for the day. Not great moment
LWITZEL
Started checking with stethascope. sounded like a big crack at the left idler pully so off that came
idler seemed ok . Started messing with the cam pulley had a 1/4 in play with the belts on .and would clanck every time moved back and forth . The crank shaft pulley was loose. gave up and quit for the day. Not great moment
LWITZEL
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OP
Yes very strange the crankshaft pulleys are keyed and tight
Have to get in there and find out
Acts like the key has sheared
Off or bolt not tite and caused play on he ke y and shaft
This may cause problems n the valve train
LWITZEL---Wes's mechanic and life long friend of 60 years.
Have to get in there and find out
Acts like the key has sheared
Off or bolt not tite and caused play on he ke y and shaft
This may cause problems n the valve train
LWITZEL---Wes's mechanic and life long friend of 60 years.
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LWITZEL?
Hmmn! Me too!!
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By 77oldau » Yesterday, 9:13 pm
Got back to it today, the back crankshaft pulley was loose by a 1\8" play, pulled them off. The second pulley key was worn and the keyway was a bit messed up. Found another pulley with good keyway but still had some play, maybe a half a tooth, from keyway, so jb welded the pully on and that tighten it right up. No play hoping that centered the keyway and pulley with the timing, had to quit to let jb get hard. and torqed the bolt. Will check to see if timing marks and all lines up.
This is a gamble.
Got back to it today, the back crankshaft pulley was loose by a 1\8" play, pulled them off. The second pulley key was worn and the keyway was a bit messed up. Found another pulley with good keyway but still had some play, maybe a half a tooth, from keyway, so jb welded the pully on and that tighten it right up. No play hoping that centered the keyway and pulley with the timing, had to quit to let jb get hard. and torqed the bolt. Will check to see if timing marks and all lines up.
This is a gamble.
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There should be ZERO play in the pulleys. I have doubts epoxy will last long if at all. I expect the looseness will pound it out quickly. It pounded out steel after-all.[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=191791#p191791:30p3ewwo said:
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I had a Subaru key and key way that were damaged by a walking pulley ( common problem when they are not tightened correctly or new crank bolt not used). I used an air cut off grinder to cut an imperial slot for the next biggest key stock and that was successful.
hmmmmmm this is something you dont see often
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by 77oldau » Today, 7:10 pm
Tightened up the crank pulley after jb welding to 55 ft lbs, but did a little more . Got all timed back up and turned engine by hand and no knock. Put valve covers on and plugs back into the timing hole and clutch hole crank over still no sound. We got up enough nerve to start it.
It sounded sweet --no knock and just purred . I guess adjusting the valve clearance 3-4 times got it spot on. Lucky did not bend valves.
if jb doesn't hold I will spot weld the crank pulley to shaft.
Maybe
Tightened up the crank pulley after jb welding to 55 ft lbs, but did a little more . Got all timed back up and turned engine by hand and no knock. Put valve covers on and plugs back into the timing hole and clutch hole crank over still no sound. We got up enough nerve to start it.
It sounded sweet --no knock and just purred . I guess adjusting the valve clearance 3-4 times got it spot on. Lucky did not bend valves.
if jb doesn't hold I will spot weld the crank pulley to shaft.
Maybe
Hi Wes,
When you added the pulley for the alternator did you get a longer bolt to compensate for the added thickness? When I did my 78 I got a longer bolt and used lok tight on the threads. I think I would by an oversize key and grind it to fit perfectly. then just to be sure perhaps add some tack welds as a back uo and something you could monitor. If you see them cracked you know you have a problem that needs attention.
Good Luck,
OhioBill
When you added the pulley for the alternator did you get a longer bolt to compensate for the added thickness? When I did my 78 I got a longer bolt and used lok tight on the threads. I think I would by an oversize key and grind it to fit perfectly. then just to be sure perhaps add some tack welds as a back uo and something you could monitor. If you see them cracked you know you have a problem that needs attention.
Good Luck,
OhioBill
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1998 GL1500c Val
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:good:[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=191844#p191844:iu9n46x6 said:
