Why now the forks leaking

[Iggys]

O.k., getting frustrated again. New forks by Forking by Frank ( originals were pitted), new bushings, new oil seals/dust caps, and progressive springs so no air pressure. Pretty sure I put the seals in correct orientation but maybe not. What is the visual clue as to the orientation of the seals or am I missing something. After 70 miles today quit a bit of oil on forks and radiator shroud from the highway miles. 28k on bike.

Thanks for any advice..
Iggy "leaky and weepy" Scarpitti

 

[Ansimp]

Definitely not right if leaking after 70 miles

 

[Iggys]

Yeah I know. I installed the seals with the pvc split pipe like in the tutorial making sure the tool was even to itself ( the bottom edge that is). The circlip went in easily enough as well. I forgot to mention the last 1/2 mile home the tach quit abruptly with no warning. Found that the inner is broken in two a foot or so down. Whats the trick to pull the inner out from the bottom- pull the fuel pump or something?. I'm sure West Valley Instruments in Reseda, CA can replicate an inner cable for me.
Iggy

 

[Steve83]

The inner-most bolt that attaches the fuel pump adapter to the head also retains the tach cable. Remove the bolt, pull the cable up and out.

 

[carl62cycles]

O.k., getting frustrated again. New forks by Forking by Frank ( originals were pitted), new bushings, new oil seals/dust caps, and progressive springs so no air pressure. Pretty sure I put the seals in correct orientation but maybe not. What is the visual clue as to the orientation of the seals or am I missing something. After 70 miles today quit a bit of oil on forks and radiator shroud from the highway miles. 28k on bike.

Thanks for any advice..
Iggy "leaky and weepy" Scarpitti

The lettering of the brand should be readable on the seals when installed :yes:

 

[Iggys]

Carl,
Thanks for that. I thought thats the way I installed them..The one side didn't have much of a "face" and it went down in the lower. If thats the case and they are installed correctly I wonder why they both are passing oil.??
I did remove the inner bolt to release the tach cable. Now I see that unlike most cables I've seen with squared off ends this has a pressed on slotted piece. Not sure if my guy can make it. Will call Monday to find out.
Iggy

p.s. the only thing I can think to do is buy two new seals and do the whole job over?

 

[mcgovern61]

Hmmmmm....what forks did you end up with? Is it possible that they are way overfilled with oil? Was the oil added from the top or bottom?

 

[westgl]

I agree with mcgovern61, too much oil could cause you a leak,

You probably would have a Very firm ride if to much fork oil.

Especially with progressive fork springs, Hey that never happened to me, like at least to or three times.

Honda Realized there was a potential for early fork leaks that is the reason why GL1500 & GL1800 have a wind protector on the front of the fork, the road debre & Bugs hit that instead of your fork tube right above your seal & dust cover, bug dries out, and you go over a bump and now you have a leaky seal.

When i come back from a ride or if i am at a rest stop I look at my fork tubes just above the dust seal to make sure that area is clean

Not saying that is what happened but possibility

There is a flared wiper on the fork seal that goes toward the top, cant remember if that had a wiper on top and bottom or just top.

When I slam my new seals in I keep the old seal and put them on top of the new seals, that way when you are slamming the seals Home you are slamming against the old one all/any abuse happens to the old seal not the new seals, again New seal on bottom Old Seal on top.

Then just remove the old seal off.

 

[Iggys]

Gerry and West,
The forks are from Forking by Frank, a known person of quality fork tubes for many applications. I was really ( or tried to be) diligent in the oz measurement of ATF that was applied from the top of the tubes. They feel great on the road and are not stiff with the progressive springs ( no air). I ordered an upgraded set of seals and will do the job over I guess. The use of gators or guards is also an obvious advantage and I wonder if anyone has done a retro fit for these bikes. I would lean toward the classic gator application.
Currently having an inner tach cable redone since it snapped in the middle. Tested the tach with another cable off bike and it is not seized and functioned o.k. but will have it checked out by my speedo/gauge guy.
I wonder if the bike with 28k miles could have completely wiped out lower fork sliders that are causing excessive play? New bushings were applied as well when seals/forks were replaced.

And the beat goes on...
Iggy

 

[mcgovern61]

I was really ( or tried to be) diligent in the oz measurement of ATF that was applied from the top of the tubes.

When I did my fork seals 5 years ago, I added oil through the plugs in the bottom where they were drained from. I will have to check, but I do not think the oil goes in from the top.

 

[scdmarx]

I poured oil in from the top.

 

[dan filipi]

It goes in from the top.

Gerry, how could you put it in from the drain holes, wouldn't it drain some out before you get the plug threaded in?
I'm not saying this is the wrong way, any way to get the fluid in there but I'm curious how you did it.

 

[mcgovern61]

It goes in from the top.

Gerry, how could you put it in from the drain holes, wouldn't it drain some out before you get the plug threaded in?
I'm not saying this is the wrong way, any way to get the fluid in there but I'm curious how you did it.

Forks were off the bike and upside down after the seals were installed. (One of the manuals or tutorials I was reading at the time recommended doing it this way.)

Plugs were already out from draining. I then used the same baby syringe that I used to fill the back shocks to put the measured amount of ATF in and then put the plugs back in.

Have not had any leaks or problems since (going on 5.5 years). (I should note that the fork seals and assembly were done by my daughter :hihihi: )

 

[mcgovern61]

I checked and found the procedure in my Haynes manual that suggests (and shows) the oil being added from the plug.

 

[AApple]

:wave:

 

[Ansimp]

Nothing beats a photo :good:

 

[Iggys]

Thanks Joel and McGovern for the input. I've ordered some new "three" lipped supposedly better stiction longer life blah blah seals and will be more careful putting them in. From the photos I did install the right side up the first time. Not looking forward to doing it again. The first attempt in putting in ATF was actually from the drain but I had forgot to cover the the small hose hole in the cap and you know the rest of the story. After that I filled from the top. Still doesn't make sense that they both are leaking.
Thanks again,
Iggy