New C5 Ignition fits GL1000, GL1100, GL1200, and GL1500

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C5Performance

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I am proud to announce our newest ignition on ClassicGoldwings.

This new kit fits more models than ever before. With help and support from this forum and its members, we have made a commitment to support the Goldwing community long term.

The lack of OEM replacement parts for the GL1100-1500 concerns us and the increase in customer requests proves there will be a demand for quality ignition kits. Here is an over view showing the progression of ignition kits we've made in the past two years...

The Gen 1 ignition kit for Goldwings used an automotive based ignition called the D series. It was a great system but the electronics used a black plastic cover that some people did not like on the GL1000 engine. We designed the Gen 2 based on customer feedback.

The Gen 2 ignition kit put us on the map in the Goldwing world. The sleek billet housing and matching cover housed the C series module. With four ignition maps to choose from this was our most popular Goldwing kit. In fact we are now completely sold out!

The Gen 3 ignition kit was recently introduced using the new M series module. This ignition has only two timing maps but is less expensive and fits inside the stock GL1000 points housing. This was going to be the only Goldwing ignition kit in our line up.

So why is C5 introducing a Gen 4 ignition kit?

1. The M series has been slow to arrive. Limited production has made it difficult for us to meet customer demand.
2. The M series is smaller and less expensive but only fits the GL1000 housing. It cannot be used on the newer larger engines.
3. We did not want another kit that is limited to the 1000 engine. Increased calls/emails have forced us to think about providing ignition parts for newer Goldwings. Honda no longer supports the 1100, 1200, and 1500 engines with replacement parts. What is left on the shelves is all we have forever.

I wanted an ignition that fit more models and still be affordable. With the help of Louis Hallett we created a base plate that fits Goldwing engines from 1975 to 1999. Many hours went into this kit and several prototypes were made.
Now you can keep your C5 ignition if you change bikes. It will have a CNC machined billet aluminum base and cover with the C5 logo on it.

The GL1000 engine needs no modifications.
The GL1100 can use a 1000 cam or drill/tap the 1100 cam for an M6 bolt.
The GL1200 requires the cam be drilled/tapped for an M6.
The GL1500 will come with a billet steel post that presses into the end of the cam.


Once we complete the 1500 kit I will provide additional information. The ignition module and coils will be different on the 1500 because it is a six cylinder.

All 4 cylinder kits will come with the C series ignition (4 timing maps), QT coil and mounting spacers, spiral wound sparkplug leads, and color instructions like previous kits.

Retail price of the new Gen 4 kit will be $549 plus shipping. This is the same as our previous kit but the new housing fits 1975 to 1999 models (GL1500 will share the housing but not the electronics or coils).

To keep the kits affordable we must manufacture 25 at a time. For this reason we are going to begin production when four kits are sold. I am placing this new kit on our website so we can take deposits. Our machine shop has all drawings complete and they can begin production within 48 hours of my phone call.

For information or to place an order follow this link:

https://www.c5ignitions.com/honda-goldwing.html
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139307#p139307:20kascf0 said:
mcgovern61 » Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:20 pm[/url]":20kascf0]
Question Paul, is there still an option for the 1100 unit to be mounted in the old location rather than drilling the cam?

I no longer have the adapter piece for that kit, and have pulled it from our website. If you wish to keep your ignition in that location I'd be happy to share the adapter plans, or if there is enough demand we can make another run of parts.

There are several reasons why I don't "love" the OEM location of the 1100 ignition:

1) It's in a very hot area of the engine/bike
2) It's difficult to install the kit due to location
3) There is no way to download timing maps
4) If the bike has a wiring issue and/or the ignition needed to be re-formatted, you would have to remove your swingarm or engine to troubleshoot problems.

The advantages of the stock location are:
1) No visible changes to the bike
2) No swapping/drilling cams

We just had a cam drilled and tapped at our local machine shop for $35 which is far cheaper than having a shop pull your engine.

Are there other considerations I'm not thinking of?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139310#p139310:3j2vprif said:
mcgovern61 » Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:46 pm[/url]":3j2vprif]
Are there other considerations I'm not thinking of?
For 1100's, any 1000 cams from any year or is there a specific year that works better?

1975, 76, 77 cams are the same #14211-371-300
1978, 79 are #14211-431-300

Going off memory the early cams are better for top end performance. Don't rely on my memory though.

I would HIGHLY recommend when purchasing cams to also use the same rockers (in the same location).
Call me picky but having a matched set is the proper way to do it if you have a choice.

Drilling/tapping the cam is the most affordable option. I'm going to make a jig that sits in the end of the head so I can drill the hole without cam removal. I'll let you know if it works out.

Dan might be able to share a picture of his cam after drilling?
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139317#p139317:7e6m755u said:
Omega Man » Sat Jan 17, 2015 2:27 pm[/url]":7e6m755u]
Paul, if one can drill on a cam without removing it can that post be driven into the cam on the 1500 without removing it? I only ask because I have few mechanical skills.

Our plans are to install the 1500 post without removal of the cam. We are designing the post to accept a standard deep well socket to tap it into place. You will have to install a seal in the 1500 which might be easier with the cap loosened. I will post pictures as we install the first one.
 
This is the GL1500 head and cam.

Red arrow indicates the flat cam end surface that will provide a sturdy shoulder for the cam post.
Yellow shows the 10mm hole Honda bored to provide cross oiling at the cam journals.
Blue indicates where the new seal will sit (its the same seal that is already on the front of the cam).

I hope this clarifies things a bit.
We cannot tap the hole because there is a cross drilled oiling port just 9mm inside the cam end.
 

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It has been a crazy busy week, but there have been several emails about this new kit. One thing I will need help with is a GL1200 coil mount.
Can anyone tell me if the stock coils hang from the top frame tube (like the 1100) or do they mount to the front like the 1000?

I would greatly appreciate help on this so I can design a set of coil mounts that work on all models.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139316#p139316:3rw5bzbn said:
C5Performance » Sat Jan 17, 2015 2:16 pm[/url]":3rw5bzbn]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139310#p139310:3rw5bzbn said:
mcgovern61 » Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:46 pm[/url]":3rw5bzbn]
Are there other considerations I'm not thinking of?
For 1100's, any 1000 cams from any year or is there a specific year that works better?

1975, 76, 77 cams are the same #14211-371-300
1978, 79 are #14211-431-300

Going off memory the early cams are better for top end performance. Don't rely on my memory though.

I would HIGHLY recommend when purchasing cams to also use the same rockers (in the same location).
Call me picky but having a matched set is the proper way to do it if you have a choice.

Drilling/tapping the cam is the most affordable option. I'm going to make a jig that sits in the end of the head so I can drill the hole without cam removal. I'll let you know if it works out.

Dan might be able to share a picture of his cam after drilling?

Your memory was correct. 75-77 are the "hottest" cams in a goldwing. After test they began thier evolution of touring and torque improvements.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139749#p139749:3ax3kvg1 said:
C5Performance » Sun Jan 25, 2015 1:07 am[/url]":3ax3kvg1]
It has been a crazy busy week, but there have been several emails about this new kit. One thing I will need help with is a GL1200 coil mount.
Can anyone tell me if the stock coils hang from the top frame tube (like the 1100) or do they mount to the front like the 1000?

I would greatly appreciate help on this so I can design a set of coil mounts that work on all models.

Lucky for you i took my 1200 apart today to rebuild the carbs. Im not sure what an1100 looks like but the coils appear to be as you described. Hanging under the front frame tube. I snapped a couple pics.

This is from a 1984 aspencade
 

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139786#p139786:2d3kg1nz said:
bronko37 » Sun Jan 25, 2015 8:06 pm[/url]":2d3kg1nz]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139749#p139749:2d3kg1nz said:
C5Performance » Sun Jan 25, 2015 1:07 am[/url]":2d3kg1nz]
It has been a crazy busy week, but there have been several emails about this new kit. One thing I will need help with is a GL1200 coil mount.
Can anyone tell me if the stock coils hang from the top frame tube (like the 1100) or do they mount to the front like the 1000?

I would greatly appreciate help on this so I can design a set of coil mounts that work on all models.

Lucky for you i took my 1200 apart today to rebuild the carbs. Im not sure what an1100 looks like but the coils appear to be as you described. Hanging under the front frame tube. I snapped a couple pics.

This is from a 1984 aspencade
file.php

file.php

Holy wiring mess Batman!!!

That appears to be similar to the 1100 but I'm thinking a bit more wiring to clutter it up.
I've got a bare 1000 and 1100 frame head compliments of GLWrench but we dont have a 1200 to slice and dice.
The 1100 frame tabs are 118mm center to center best I can measure. If anyone can access a 1200 frame I'd appreciate measurements.

Thanks Bronko37 those photos scare me. We might need to use a different coil for those models (twin coils instead of our QT coil).
 
Its not nearly as fun to work on as the 76 thats for sure. Luckily, i dont have to mess with that wiring. I was just tryin to get the carbs out. Note to self, stick to 75-79 models for future reference.
 
Its a little intimidating Steve. I didnt sleep very well last night thinking about it all. Just gotta tell myself to go slow and process through it. Sheesh, i thought the76 was complicated.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=139811#p139811:3pkji6tb said:
bronko37 » Mon Jan 26, 2015 6:29 am[/url]":3pkji6tb]
Its a little intimidating Steve. I didnt sleep very well last night thinking about it all. Just gotta tell myself to go slow and process through it. Sheesh, i thought the76 was complicated.

1000 coils are VERY easy to swap with our kit and use the stock aluminum "T" mounts with 10mm spacers.
1100 coils require different mounts that I've been making by hand, but have ideas on a universal mount that could also fit the 1200 frame.
1200 coils I have never done because we never made a kit for them.

The worst coils are those of a GL1500. It takes several hours just to get them out (our kit will leave them in place).
We plan on mounting coils in the right side fairing, in front of the storage compartment, and providing a wire harness to bypass all Honda OEM wiring.
I'm trying to find a Valkyrie owner locally so we can figure out that mount as well.
 
Today in between a million other projects I sat down and figured out coil mounts. The GL1000 uses the stock mounts and we send 10mm spacers that work very well. On the GL1100 It requires a funky offset coil mount and I am not even sure about the GL1200.

The 1000 coils sit vertically behind the steering head and the 1100/1200 coils are almost horizontal.

By modifying a coil mount I use for another kit, I had success with the 1100 frame. It also fit my GL1000 but the airbox snorkel would have to be trimmed off. Now if someone can send me a free GL1200 frame I'd be set.

My plan is to have one kit for all three models (1000, 1100, 1200) so we don't have to mess with knowing which frame you have.
 

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