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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#31  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-02- 19:37

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Great effort :good: :salute:

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Quote:
Now you can keep your C5 ignition if you change bikes.


Brings up an interesting point......I suppose we should keep all of our old OEM stuff in the event we decide to sell our bike to move up to a 1200 or 1500 and want to take the C5 with us? :headscratch:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#33  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-02- 20:03

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Quote:
Now you can keep your C5 ignition if you change bikes.


Brings up an interesting point......I suppose we should keep all of our old OEM stuff in the event we decide to sell our bike to move up to a 1200 or 1500 and want to take the C5 with us? :headscratch:


The complete kit will interchange between all four cylinders quite easily because they all use a C2 ignition and the QT coil. To run the 1500 you'd have to purchase the C3 module and three DF coils.

C1=controls one coil
C2=controls two coils
C3=controls three coils

DF is a twin tower coil
QT is a quad tower coil that has TWO coils buried inside.

Since the 1500 engine needs 3 coils, we will provide different electronics but the housing/base remains the same.
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#34  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 5:45

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So let me understand this...

for the 1200, I can no longer get the kit that I got for the 1100 because you no longer make the big spacer ring. So if I want the C5, I can leave the stock pulse generator in place but disconnet it, drill a hole the cam shaft, and mount the entire C5 system on the back of the head. Is that the readers digest version?

Obviously I left out a few steps...

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#35  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 5:47

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i think that covers it brian

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#36  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 6:50

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So let me understand this...

for the 1200, I can no longer get the kit that I got for the 1100 because you no longer make the big spacer ring. So if I want the C5, I can leave the stock pulse generator in place but disconnet it, drill a hole the cam shaft, and mount the entire C5 system on the back of the head. Is that the readers digest version?

Obviously I left out a few steps...


That is correct. If you have a GL1100 or GL1200 your stock parts can be left in place.

We never offered a kit for the 1200 (Dan made his own) but the GL1100 spacers will no longer be available. All Wing ignitions will be mounted on the rear of the left cylinder with two screws.

Additional Modifications:
GL1000 needs no additional mods, GL1100/1200 require cam be drilled/tapped, GL1500 and Valkyrie require a press in cam post (we will manufacture once the 4 cylinder kit is ready to go).

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#37  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 10:05

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My Bike Models: 1983 Interstate with '84 1200 engine, Solex single carb, and C5 ignition.
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I would like everyone to know that we are not blindly excited about this ignition, there are very good reasons.

It is the only ignition replacement available for the 1100 and 1200.
It is the only upgrade to a 1500 ignition available.
It is the only ignition available with spot on timing and 3 full sparks at all rpm's.
It is programmable for nearly infinite timing at all rpm's.
Never before has all of this been available.

This is why we endorse it so highly.

Anyone that has ever worked on an engine and especially anyone that performance tunes engines, knows full well these features are needed to properly tune an engine whether it's to have the engine run the best it can, or to run with NOS or a blower for specific reasons. Denying this is simply saying they have some other agenda like some kind of dislike for this forum or its members, period.

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#38  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 10:24

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Drilling/tapping the cam is the most affordable option. I'm going to make a jig that sits in the end of the head so I can drill the hole without cam removal. I'll let you know if it works out.


I was really disappointed in this deal(no more factory location conversions on the 1100) until I saw this... :clapping: If you can devise a jig so we(I) don't have to remove the cam, and re-time the belts and all, that would be the only way some of us would be able to do this upgrade. I totally unnerstand the reasoning behind the idea...no pulling the engine to do the conversion and such, heat aspects, etc. For me, changing the cam(s) would be a deal breaker. Being able to "modify" the cam without removing it(and the associated hardware) would be SWEEEEEET! :good:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#39  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 10:46

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well joel ..i cant think of a easier drill on the motor ...crank it up and hold the bit still ...it is already centered punched :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: it wont take long ... and if you cant drill a strait hole like this ... :fiddle:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#40  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 11:02

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My Bike Models: 1981 GL1100 Interstate - 71,000 miles

1984 GL1200 Standard - 25,000 miles

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We never offered a kit for the 1200 (Dan made his own) but the GL1100 spacers will no longer be available. All Wing ignitions will be mounted on the rear of the left cylinder with two screws.


Paul,

The 1100 kit I have on my 1100 would have worked on my 1200 also as the 84 motor is unique so I was going to use an 1100 kit for my 1200. Looks like that won’t be necessary any more. So I no longer need to pull the engine to change the ignition. Now, could you figure out a stock stator that doesn’t require the motor to be removed also????? :shock:

:smilie_happy:

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Brian
Retired US Navy 1983-2003
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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#41  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 11:13

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Location: Hortonville, Wisconsin
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2012 Yamaha Super Tenere
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CB175


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Drilling/tapping the cam is the most affordable option. I'm going to make a jig that sits in the end of the head so I can drill the hole without cam removal. I'll let you know if it works out.


I was really disappointed in this deal(no more factory location conversions on the 1100) until I saw this... :clapping: If you can devise a jig so we(I) don't have to remove the cam, and re-time the belts and all, that would be the only way some of us would be able to do this upgrade. I totally understand the reasoning behind the idea...no pulling the engine to do the conversion and such, heat aspects, etc. For me, changing the cam(s) would be a deal breaker. Being able to "modify" the cam without removing it(and the associated hardware) would be SWEEEEEET! :good:


I can provide dimensions if you want to manufacture the old 1100 kit but I've previously stated why it has little to no advantage and plenty of disadvantages.
To drill/tap into the 1200 cam (which has a pilot hole already from Honda) I would personally make a jig to hold the drill bit, and use a depth stop. If you destroy the cam that's on you :)

It does not take much time to pull the cam, and for many people, is a great time to change that timing belt they've always "wanted" to do. Maybe we'll find someone willing to make a video of a cam swap?

As for endorsement of our product by this forum, don't think it came easily. Dan, Joe, and several others have challenged me extensively during the past two years via phone, email, PM, and personally at Joe's Meet & Greet.
First Joe slaps the thing on a radically modified bike and asks me to set timing crazy high. Dan designed the first 1200 kit for testing with virtually NO input from me "Hey Paul...guess what I did?"
Now Slabghost is installing our Gen 3 & Gen 4 on two different bikes...I am sure he will give it a proper flogging as well.

I appreciate the support and feel I owe it back to the forum to continue pushing forward with more Goldwing products.

As for Joe's suggestion on cam drilling, who runs the throttle and who holds the drill bit? :popcorn:

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsjTrvH26j1bkF_uDZu1qnw


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#42  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 11:14

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We never offered a kit for the 1200 (Dan made his own) but the GL1100 spacers will no longer be available. All Wing ignitions will be mounted on the rear of the left cylinder with two screws.


Paul,

The 1100 kit I have on my 1100 would have worked on my 1200 also as the 84 motor is unique so I was going to use an 1100 kit for my 1200. Looks like that won’t be necessary any more. So I no longer need to pull the engine to change the ignition. Now, could you figure out a stock stator that doesn’t require the motor to be removed also????? :shock:

:smilie_happy:


I understand the CX500-650 engines are just as bad.

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsjTrvH26j1bkF_uDZu1qnw


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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#43  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 11:49

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:BigGrin: well i dont think it would take anything more than idle to drill the hole :builder: to drill a hole crocked in a spinning strait piece is impossible without divine intervention :music3: :mrgreen:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#44  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 11:51

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well joel ..i cant think of a easier drill on the motor ...crank it up and hold the bit still ...it is already centered punched :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: it wont take long ... and if you cant drill a strait hole like this ... :fiddle:



I think the cam is turning the wrong direction for that Joe, Dang It! :0fftopic:

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Share Post: Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on TumblrShare on Google+Share on MySpace  Post Number:#45  Unread postPosted: 2015-02-03- 11:56

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Drilling/tapping the cam is the most affordable option. I'm going to make a jig that sits in the end of the head so I can drill the hole without cam removal. I'll let you know if it works out.


I was really disappointed in this deal(no more factory location conversions on the 1100) until I saw this... :clapping: If you can devise a jig so we(I) don't have to remove the cam, and re-time the belts and all, that would be the only way some of us would be able to do this upgrade. I totally understand the reasoning behind the idea...no pulling the engine to do the conversion and such, heat aspects, etc. For me, changing the cam(s) would be a deal breaker. Being able to "modify" the cam without removing it(and the associated hardware) would be SWEEEEEET! :good:


I can provide dimensions if you want to manufacture the old 1100 kit but I've previously stated why it has little to no advantage and plenty of disadvantages.
To drill/tap into the 1200 cam (which has a pilot hole already from Honda) I would personally make a jig to hold the drill bit, and use a depth stop. If you destroy the cam that's on you :)

It does not take much time to pull the cam, and for many people, is a great time to change that timing belt they've always "wanted" to do. Maybe we'll find someone willing to make a video of a cam swap?

As for endorsement of our product by this forum, don't think it came easily. Dan, Joe, and several others have challenged me extensively during the past two years via phone, email, PM, and personally at Joe's Meet & Greet.
First Joe slaps the thing on a radically modified bike and asks me to set timing crazy high. Dan designed the first 1200 kit for testing with virtually NO input from me "Hey Paul...guess what I did?"
Now Slabghost is installing our Gen 3 & Gen 4 on two different bikes...I am sure he will give it a proper flogging as well.

I appreciate the support and feel I owe it back to the forum to continue pushing forward with more Goldwing products.

As for Joe's suggestion on cam drilling, who runs the throttle and who holds the drill bit? :popcorn:

Idle or throttle lock a little above. Try a big half inch drill as a bit holder. That way if it binds at all it just turns the drill motor. Should be a one man job that way. :good:

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Sadly, Slabghost (Vince) passed away earlier this year (2019) of cancer. He will be missed dearly for his help to others, a forum moderator, and as a true friend.
Rest in Peace Brother.


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