my 78

I thought it was an 81.It is clearly marked 78.The valve covers say 1100.A guy who has rebuilt several says he is sure its a 1000 with 1100 valvecovers.I havent looked up the engine number yet.The bike is a mess.It sat for 16 years.It had no carbs at all.The carb holes, the entire bike sat out in the weather for who knows how long.Lots of rust,lots of work.If the motor was shot I was going to do something different.I had time to check it out a little today.Of course all the connectors in the back near the battery and solenoid are brittle,corroded,dried,fraying wires etc.I had a redhot battery from a 65o so I put it in.Way smaller than the goldwing battery.I put the key in,turned it on.The tailight works,the oil light came on, the fan came on which tells me it might be direct wired, and the horn works.The starter button did nothing.No surprise.That switch housing is so brittle it looks like it could break at any time.So then I put a screwdriver across the nasty solenoid.The motor and starter turns over like a mad dog.I am so happy about that.Lots more to do but it least it doesnt seem to be locked up.I had stuffed soft rags in the sparkplug holes and carb holes.It blew them all out.I figure by the time I get this thing running driveable and presentable i will have about 9 zillion man hours.A labor of love.Its a sickness for which there is no cure.

k: sounds positive for a sixteen year old sitter that's been left opened up like that.

Great news! Probably best to hunt down a better wiring harness. Post some pics when you can. Let us watch the transformation.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179886#p179886:3u0tesab said:

backlander » Mon Sep 05, 2016 9:33 am[/url]":3u0tesab]
k: sounds positive for a sixteen year old sitter that's been left opened up like that.

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+1 :good:

these probably will be annoyingly crooked.They arent in my computer but are when I post here.

Oh my those carbs look as attractive as 100 miles of bad road. Might want to consider a single carb conversion. Certainly will be a project to get her right again.

[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=179900#p179900:3au334sn said:

crusierlover » Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:56 pm[/url]":3au334sn]
View attachment 1View attachment 2these probably will be annoyingly crooked.They arent in my computer but are when I post here.

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thanks?

She's definitely a 78. I can tell by the gauge cluster on your top shelter. 77 did not have 3 gauges, and the cluster housing changed in 79. If the motor is original to the rest of the bike, she's a 1000cc. I know the 78 GL100 well. Below are pics of mine. The 1st is her condition as she was delivered to me. The 2nd is after I got her running and set up the way I like her. Pay no attention to the bad rubber. I replaced them before I put her on the road.





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I just realized this is the same bike that you were posting about in the other thread. So glad to hear that your engine is in good internal shape, as far as not being seized due to exposure.

My next question is this... Are you planning a full on restoration, or something custom and comfortable?

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180171#p180171:6f1f8qtt said:

MobtownMatt » Thu Sep 08, 2016 9:55 pm[/url]":6f1f8qtt]
She's definitely a 78. I can tell by the gauge cluster on your top shelter. 77 did not have 3 gauges, and the cluster housing changed in 79. If the motor is original to the rest of the bike, she's a 1000cc. I know the 78 GL100 well. Below are pics of mine. The 1st is her condition as she was delivered to me. The 2nd is after I got her running and set up the way I like her. Pay no attention to the bad rubber. I replaced them before I put her on the road.

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Thank you for the valuable input.I appreciate it.Also your bike looks great.What am i going to do with it? Good question.My dream plans and realistic plans differ of course.Right now get the carbs I bought cleaned properly and installed.get the motor running properly.I intend to after the motor is right to take it out of the frame which I might regret later.I am afraid of getting all the wiring apart and back together.But the frame and many parts have surface rust.plus once the frame components are more visible i may have more than surface rust and need repairs.I do know a guy with another frame.It would be easier to buy one of several bikes around here and use this one for parts.But the idea of bringing one back appeals to me.There is a car show whose motto is dont crush them,restore them.My thoughts as well.I personally do not like the appearance of the original mufflers.Probably I will replace, and I have heard they have rusted out many times.The seat is ugly but comfortable, so I will keep that.I intend doing some keith wright modifications like the fatbob tank shelter, and the frame modification.I can not find anywhere the how to on the frame mod. So most likely this bike will be a nonpurist restore.I do not like the giant turn signals and tailight.I intend replacing the signals with supernovas from revolution cycles in Austin.I want a flush mount tailight,might even recess the license plate.I have heard rivets come out of the mag wheels, but I do like them better than the comstars.Wright used Hurricane wheels on his.I am not smart enough to know how.My master cylinder looks like dirt clods inside.I want to retain the stock pieces, but will repair or replace if necessary.Since almost no pieces of the bike are painted I will want them painted bright red with a little pinstriping,not much.Instead of the plastic honda emblems I will have the word honda painted on the shelter.If I can find someone who knows how to help me do the wiring I will replace the old headlight with a modern style one where you just replace the bulb instead of taking it apart.I intend having just a small windscreen or fairing like yours.I really like the looks of yours.I might be able to figure out how to use your picture and make myself a screensaver of it.So,I guess restomod.

Sounds like you have your ideas mostly planned out. I can't wait to see more pics of her as you make progress. As for the wiring issues, since you're not doing a full on restoration, may I suggest a bare bones wiring system? Run independent circuits for your stater and rectifier, lights, ignition, and starter. Put each circuit on its own switch. Nice and simple. That's what I did with mine. Being as you have to use a key to open the top shelter, I chose to put the switches and starter button inside for security. Just a suggestion. Also, restomod is a great way to go. You can make her unique to you, and save you a big chunk of change if you do it right. Can't wait to see more of her.

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My bike has the following and for sure not unique issues.The gas tank had some gas in it,it smells like turpentine.I have to take it out.I read that requires taking off the rear wheel,right shock,pulling it out the back.My rear tire is flat and coming apart so I have to take it off anyway.I bought a por 15 kit to do the tank.I would be amazed if it isnt full of rust.I also do not have some of the things under the shelter I need.There is no tool tray.I dont need that.But there is also no plenum,aircleaner mounting apparatus or air cleaner element.I have a source for parts about an hour away.But until the bike is running properly, the carbs are correctly working I dont need those parts yet either.Someone just posted a link, I clicked on it and bought the coolest headlight.It has a black bucket, signals built into the headlight.Exactly what i would have designed if i could have.The mounting things inside the shelter is a key issue,great idea.So much to do.Every time I see a bike for sale on CL with everything done i am so tempted.But I really want to do this.

If you have the sense of pride that I do, you're going to.live every minute of it. Even the headaches. Why buy something that someone else has already had the fun with? Haha. I actually robbed my headlight bucket off of my CB500 project. I need to order another now for either the CB500, or for the GL, but definitely going to have to get one. But I'm thinking I'm going to leave signals off of mine. If I do put signals on it again one day, I think I might go with the little led bullets to keep the look as trimmed as possible. I have some sitting in the shop. Just not sure if I want them on there or not.

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I'm thinking about ordering these though.
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/like/261871 ... 0516258132


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I don't want to violate this forum's rules but I recently did what Mobtown said about switches inside the shelter. I put a main on/off switch under the locking lid, then a second on/off switch on top of the shelter with a start button at the right grip. This allows me to turn the bike on and off without opening the shelter but I still have the security of killing power behind the locked lid.

LED lighting is the way to go if not concerned about an original look. I use two 36W Cree headlights that individually only pull 3 amps! That's easy on the old charging system. A small resistor on the turn signal lines allows for all LEDs there, too.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180201#p180201:12pepx2n said:

MobtownMatt » Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:37 am[/url]":12pepx2n]
I'm thinking about ordering these though.
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/like/261871 ... 0516258132


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those headlights look good.

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180198#p180198:2sw21y7y said:

MobtownMatt » 29 minutes ago[/url]":2sw21y7y]
...But I'm thinking I'm going to leave signals off of mine. If I do put signals on it again one day, I think I might go with the little led bullets to keep the look as trimmed as possible. I have some sitting in the shop. Just not sure if I want them on there or not.

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I did a kz1000 bobber without signals. It does look cleaner but I get paranoid about the cagers not understanding hand signals and riding at night when nobody can see my gloved hands. If you zoom in on my previous pic, you can see the 3/4" led bulbs I installed under my high beam for turn signals. Again, minimalistic but very bright.

fivestring":33zv6wik said:

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=180198#p180198:33zv6wik said:

MobtownMatt » 29 minutes ago[/url]":33zv6wik]
...But I'm thinking I'm going to leave signals off of mine. If I do put signals on it again one day, I think I might go with the little led bullets to keep the look as trimmed as possible. I have some sitting in the shop. Just not sure if I want them on there or not.

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Click to expand...

I did a kz1000 bobber without signals. It does look cleaner but I get paranoid about the cagers not understanding hand signals and riding at night when nobody can see my gloved hands. If you zoom in on my previous pic, you can see the 3/4" led bulbs I installed under my high beam for turn signals. Again, minimalistic but very bright.

Click to expand...

I have 1/2 led bullets that I'm considering putting on. Or I might order the ones that I posted the link to. The hand signals do make me nervous at night.

fivestring":33zv6wik said:

I don't want to violate this forum's rules but I recently did what Mobtown said about switches inside the shelter. I put a main on/off switch under the locking lid, then a second on/off switch on top of the shelter with a start button at the right grip. This allows me to turn the bike on and off without opening the shelter but I still have the security of killing power behind the locked lid.

LED lighting is the way to go if not concerned about an original look. I use two 36W Cree headlights that individually only pull 3 amps! That's easy on the old charging system. A small resistor on the turn signal lines allows for all LEDs there, too.

IMG 20160908 175550228

• fivestring
• Sep 8, 2016

LED headlights

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"Restomod". My new favorite word.☺

I use little one inch marker lights mounted on the headlight ears as signals on my 1200 standard.