OP
OP
yes it's completely stock ekvh
86 GL1200 Refresh and Mod project
- Thread starter backlander
- Start date
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 22,443
- Reaction score
- 262
- Location
- Van Nuys Ca.
- My Bike Models
- 1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
- My Bike Logs forum link
- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
Topic moved to Restorations.
OP
OP
Today was a good day to remove the rear end and start refreshing it, it was in the fifties and sunshiny so I jumped on it. Did all the usual to remove the rear wheel and tire, first problem, no frigging way it was going to clear the swingarm, :Awe: WTH, removed the rotor from the wheel, :Awe: WTH, still won't clear. Had to back off, drink coffee and study this situation. Don't make sense, so I was planning on taking the final drive out anyway to fix the front seal in it and lube the drive shaft so I took all that apart
and got down to taking the splined hub apart and it won't come out, :Awe: WTH, ended up using a gear puller to take it apart
and this is so NOT what you want to find.
Absolutely no lube, all rust. sharpened teeth and excessive wear :head bang: . Also no lube on the hub pins.
WTH. :head bang: :head bang: :swoon: Now I got to figure out how to repair all this and assemble it all as a unit and get it mounted back on the bike. :builder:
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 22,443
- Reaction score
- 262
- Location
- Van Nuys Ca.
- My Bike Models
- 1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
- My Bike Logs forum link
- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
It's a little hard to tell in the picture but the splines don't look too bad.
I would probably run with it.
I would probably run with it.
OP
OP
I think they won't look so bad when cleaned up, what freaked me out was that rear tire was put on about 15000 miles ago by the PO or someone he hired and I don't think anyone troubled themselves to do what should have done, lube the splines and the propeller shaft. I still haven't figured out why the tire and wheel would not come out unless it is the design of the tire, fat middle sidewall,( same problem I got :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: )
well mike ...it was tight before you pried it apart .... :smilie_happy: i dont think it will ever be that tight again .........
now the good i see is ...that it was locked up on the hub so bad that the 1200 weak wheel bearing and wheel problem that is so bad on 1200s ....yours looks perfect :mrgreen: but its kinda hard to see it good in the pics ....keep trucking one way or the other it will last awhile if cleaned and check out in the installing :clapping:
now the good i see is ...that it was locked up on the hub so bad that the 1200 weak wheel bearing and wheel problem that is so bad on 1200s ....yours looks perfect :mrgreen: but its kinda hard to see it good in the pics ....keep trucking one way or the other it will last awhile if cleaned and check out in the installing :clapping:
OP
OP
I got it cleaned up and it will be okay I think. The real issue now is why wouldn't the tire and wheel drop off. I'm running the correct size 150/90/15 in the Shinko 230 Tourmaster. The only other thing I can think of is the hub was not completely seated in the final drive even though it was locked up which made the pins stick out further to the brake side because the wheel would not clear the pins.
OP
OP
Not good news for the final drive splined hub. After a thorough cleaning and inspection of the splines on the final drive side and measuring the lash between it and the wheel hub splines, I have 500 thousanths lash, 1/2 inch. No wonder I heard an occasional clunk. I actually dug out hardened "rocks" of old lube that had formed in the bottom of the final drive side which over time had forced the hub side to ride higher than normal. Just my luck.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 22,443
- Reaction score
- 262
- Location
- Van Nuys Ca.
- My Bike Models
- 1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
- My Bike Logs forum link
- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
Bummer, Mike.
I think there are 2 variants of the 1200 final drive so careful of that when looking for one.
I think there are 2 variants of the 1200 final drive so careful of that when looking for one.
OP
OP
Yes it is. The 84-85 will interchange and the 86-87 will as far as wheel and hub swap overs, you can't use 84-85 wheel/hub on an 86-87 and vice versa. The 86-87 was beefed up to address the wobble factor they were having with the bearing wallowing out it's housing. I'm thinking I'm going to try to find a 1500 setup or use a complete unit out of one of these 85's I have.
OP
OP
This week's progress so far includes opening up the final drive, checking actual tooth dimensions versus external hub and I have approx. 35 % wear on the flange hub so I decided to run it a while longer, lubed it all real good, painted it and it's on the ready shelf when reassembly time comes around. Removed front wheel, checked bearings and seals, all good shape, no play or leaks, brake pads at 75% and rotors measure out like new. Now I have to order some tires so I can put both ends back together. Big problem right now is getting the crank bolt loose on the front of the motor so external pulley can be put on, it don't want to turn at all. Slowly but surely, I'll get there. I hope.
:smilie_happy: :doh: air impack mike ....only thing to use here without risking a lot ...blood also
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 22,443
- Reaction score
- 262
- Location
- Van Nuys Ca.
- My Bike Models
- 1983 Interstate
2018 KLR 650
2018 BMW S1000 RR
- My Bike Logs forum link
- https://classicgoldwings.com/forums/dan-filipi.122/
My air impact is tired and won't break the crank bolt loose so my wife stands on the back brake while I use a breaker bar and a pipe on the socket.
Decent quality air impacts are expensive.
Decent quality air impacts are expensive.
OP
OP
I need to buy a compressor, I already have all the air tools but you know how easy it is to keep putting off buying stuff that your not using at the moment, then BAM you really need it. I just made a new tool to get the driveshaft coupling back onto the output shaft, a 3/4 inch wooden dowel 24 inches long, just slid it thru the swingarm, line up the front of the coupling with you fingers and push it onto the output shaft,works like a charm. Ya'll may already know that but I just thought I'd pass it along.
Denver
Well-known member
Harbor Freight has a nice half inch impact,called earthquake.On sale for 69.99 with coupon in cycle world april edition as well as rider.Regular price 120.I bought one years ago,it's been great.New ones have more torque 700 ft.lb's lot's of power!!!
OP
OP
:thanks: Thanks for the info Denver. I got all the air tools I just need to replace my air compressor. Yeah, the torque on the newer models is unbelievable. :good:
OP
OP
Lot of cleaning and prepping going on with the wheels while their off, top of engine so I can paint before carbs are put back on. Got the tires ordered today, Shinko 230's on sale for 135. for the set & free UPS shipping, best price I've ever found on them. Now to order the dyna beads. Brake system calipers, master cylinders are next to be flushed and fluid changed. It's plum pitiful looking now.
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2013
- Messages
- 9,855
- Reaction score
- 34
- Location
- Brisbane Australia
- My Bike Models
- 1981 GL1100 “Rats Nest”
1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
backlander":32c5exg8 said:
Hi Backlander who did you get the 230s off and how do they perform? I am looking at the 712s and can only go off what I have read. Your advice would be appreciated.
k:
OP
OP
Hello ansimp. I ordered them fromCycle Parts Nation Aftermarket Motorcycle Accessories. https://www.aftermarketcyclepartsnation.com I ordered online and used paypal. Their phone number 269-385-1540. As far as the performance of the Shinko 230, I couldn't be more pleased, but I have only run the tire on the rear at this point. The wear and handling is fantastic in the wet or dry conditons. The Shinko 230 was designed for long distance touring and will carry a higher load than most others. Also the price is great. Shinko has been making bicycle tires since 1946, then got into motorcycle tires when they bought out Yokohoma's motorcycle tire division. They offer a lot of sizes that other manufacturers have stopped producing. I have not read any negative reviews on the Shinko 230 Tourmaster so I'm going with front and rear this time. I've never had problem with leak down, no flats and their are no cracks on this tire and it's got 16,000 miles on it. I read yesterday that it is the chose of drag racers also because of it's amazing gripping power.
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2013
- Messages
- 9,855
- Reaction score
- 34
- Location
- Brisbane Australia
- My Bike Models
- 1981 GL1100 “Rats Nest”
1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
Thanks for that Mike, it looks like Shinko will definitely be the tire choice for the "Rats Nest" :good:
