Fuse Box

Well I'm thinkin my 31 yr. old wiring is starting to act up, had the thermostat change this past week when she broke down ( over heated) on a road trip down towards Bedford ,Pa. last weekend finally got her back yesterday (Sat.) and after stopping for some lunch before the 3 hour ride home noticed that the turn signals would not cancel, which is also the fuse for the tail light. Hmmmmmmmm, so checked the fuse and sure enough she's blown, change her out turn the key to see if that helped and no tail light then all of a sudden the fuse gets hotter than :sensored: OK shut her down and take the fuse out and ride her home that way. thougt maybe they might have pinched a wire when they was workin on her but put another fuse in her today and still no tail light touched the fuse on the bottom and she was hot, the wife said hey the tail lights on , now it's off now it's on, well every time I would touch the bottom clip in the fuse box for this fuse I could move it back and forth at least 1/4 in. Guess my guestion is this, would that connection being that loose cause it to get that hot ? and has anyone else had to replace their 30 + yr old fuse box and can you even get a replacement ?
Winger 82 :hi:

yes many have changed to blade fuses ...no ebay is only source for old fuse box I think

I'm not real good with wiring, so how big of a job would it be to change to a blade style box ? or even change out with an original ? don't see alot of wires on this one , just the few that are connected to it on the right side ( sitting on the bike) unless there is a harness coming off the bottom that I can't see.

ive never done it but I think dan has ... theres really not many wires but let others that have done it advise more

Since the filament inside a glass fuse is designed to melt and break under heat and a loose connection where the fuse plugs in can make it get hot, the fuse can blow earlier than it should.

I installed something similar to this one to do away with the glass fuses,
https://www.powerwerx.com/fuses-circuit- ... QgodD1oAqA

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=92511#p92511:2zf9g8ux said:

Winger 82 » Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:45 pm[/url]":2zf9g8ux]
I'm not real good with wiring, so how big of a job would it be to change to a blade style box ? or even change out with an original ? don't see alot of wires on this one , just the few that are connected to it on the right side ( sitting on the bike) unless there is a harness coming off the bottom that I can't see.

Click to expand...

Wiring once was a big worry for me too, but the more you do it, the better you become with it and the more confident you become with your abilities. As long as you do one fuse at a time, or if you label every wire real well, changing a fuse block out is no problem. I would suggest solder connections and shrink tubing rather than crimp connections so that you do not need to worry too much about a poor crimp connection causing problems in the future.

GO FOR IT. You will be happy you did it, and it will eliminate a lot of future problems.

Thanks for the positive in put BUT I unbolted the fuse box and look underneath and sorry guys BUT way to many wires for this guy

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=92645#p92645:21fo3gl1 said:

Winger 82 » Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:38 pm[/url]":21fo3gl1]
Thanks for the positive in put BUT I unbolted the fuse box and look underneath and sorry guys BUT way to many wires for this guy

Click to expand...

You can do it!! Each wire is one circuit to one fuse. If you take your time, one wire at a time, you can do it!

^^^^^^ What he said! ^^^^^^^

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=92672#p92672:10d7o0w8 said:

brianinpa » Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:13 pm[/url]":10d7o0w8]
^^^^^^ What he said! ^^^^^^^

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Yes, and all the wires are color coded.
When I changed mine the wires were long enough to connect to the new fuse panel though I think I had to move the new panel some to the left.
Not a difficult job.

Take lots of pictures before and along the way and it isn't as hard as it seems.

Good advice on the pictures, no drawing diagrams and it sure beats my memory. :good:

Winger 82...I recently replaced glass fuse holder to blade type. Went to a 8 position to accomodate additional fuses needed for extra running lights...bought the fuse box from Summit Racing for around 13.00, and then removed old glass fuse holder and marked each wire set, drilled out new holes for fuse holder and used 3/16 rivets to attach. took a little time and i'm no expert, but cam out well. Here is a pic.

very nice work strapman

Here is a link to a "how to" that i used to get acquainted....

https://cx500forum.com/forum/general-dis ... -fire.html

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=92726#p92726:16arbp0y said:

strapman » Tue Aug 13, 2013 8:39 am[/url]":16arbp0y]
... took a little time and i'm no expert, but cam out well. Here is a pic.

Click to expand...

That looks like a professional job to me!

Very nice work :good:

tahing pics prior to rewiring is definatly a plus. I do this when i am working on PLC's

[url=https://www.forum.classicgoldwings.com/viewtopic.php?p=92753#p92753:1dsgi5h8 said:

brianinpa » Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am[/url]":1dsgi5h8]

[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=92726#p92726:1dsgi5h8 said:

strapman » Tue Aug 13, 2013 8:39 am[/url]":1dsgi5h8]
... took a little time and i'm no expert, but cam out well. Here is a pic.

Click to expand...

That looks like a professional job to me!

Click to expand...

This looks really good, I was under the impression that the new box would come with a harness already attached and I would have to trace wires and redo connections to my old ones. I guess what all of you are saying is to take the old box out and cut the wires at the old box and attach to the new box?? But there are a lot of wires coming out of that old box, how do you attach them to the new one ? I know that there are a few wires for each fuse, such as cancelling turn signals/tail light/gauges all on one fuse. I see wires on both sides of the box pictured :headscratch:
thanks for all the feed back, but first I have to try to find the short under the false tank that appeared after I had a Suzuki shop in Bedford,Pa. work on my over heating problem while we were on a road trip 2 weeks ago. I picked the bike up last Sat. (after a weeks wait on the part "thermostat") they had closed at 1:00 PM and I was 3 Hrs. away so they left the bike outside for me to pick up, realized I had a fuse blown when the turn signals would not cancel so after having some lunch I checked the fuse and yep it was blown, changed it out and still no tail lights but the fuse was getting very hot, pulled the fuse out and made the ride home without a tail light (had a brake light though) after getting home I got to lookin and tried another fuse and had tail lights but noticed a little smoke coming from under the false tank on the left side of the bike k: hit the key right away and took out the fuse so I should be able to find that short, insulation on that wire should be burnt or melted

Winger 82 :hi: