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Did you aldo read the warning to only LIGHTLY lap the valves? They are stelite faced, and too much lapping removes that, exposing soft steel.

You only need and want one resistor in the chain. Plug, cap, or wire. I use non-resistor plugs and wires with resistor caps, or non-resistor wires and caps with resistor plugs. Resistor plugs seem to be the most commonly available these days, so I have replaced the resistor in my caps with solid...

You have a popular publication, not a Honda service manual Burn the Clymer and get Honda's (usually available in downloadable pdf on many of the forums).

For comfort (and legal in Tennessee), the DOT 3/4 with impact-rated sunglasses or goggles should do fine. For safety, I go with full or modular. I may have a weak chin, but I'd rather not loose it.

I did a short experiment on my '79 GL1000 with Ford TFI modules triggered by the points. They modules handled dwell and coil current, placing only tiny current across the points. I felt this system would give great performance (well controlled dweel and long point life) but did not realize that...

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive low pressure fuel pressure gauge with tubing and connectors to T it inline while testing. You are only looking for ~3-4 psi, but you need to measure flow also (timed into say, a quart jar).

Yesm the GL1800s have O2, knock, phase-of-the-moon. Newer ones even more. At least you don't have to acknowledge reading the safety card on every start as long as you own it.

If the swing arm is still tight, just re-lubricate through the grease fitting. You really should pull the fork legs apart, clean, and install new seals and dust boots. There are no valuable shortcuts that help, really. The only hard part is getting the old seals out (and breaking loose that...

Gee, I didn't realize Dendo had been around since the '40s. By the ND on the board in one of your photos, I would guess that Nippondenso (Denso since the '90s) did manufacture and probably stuffed the board. But I'd bet Honda supplied pre-programmed EPROMs. I'm sure that you have searched...

Was Denso even a major supplier in '85?

The head bearings (unless they have been replaced) are ball bearings. The lower one gets abuse and often the balls dent the race to make steering "notchy". Most '75s require a special upper if going to rollers, but the upper sees little abuse so replaceing just the lower with a tappered roller...

Will they even admit to building them?

Yes, '79 Comstars used tubes. The tires can be tube or tubeless, but either will need tubes.

OEM (even used) float vaves, and fix the petcock so it doesn't leak.

What else is there to do in Canadian winter (unless you enjoy snow/ice sports)?

Welcome! Looks like you have one with all of the common "enhancements" - K&Q seat, fairing, alternate "grab bar", painted engine parts. Let me suggest that you do a rescue rather thatn a restoration. '77 was a good year - a few refinements of the original GL1000, while keeping its classic look...

Two big concerns here - traffic for Memorial Day and the big race combined, and northern roads (this winter's potholes won't be filled by then).

US1 & 1A from Jacksonville to Key West (17 from Savannah to Jacksonville). Also US70 from Knoxville to the Atlantic (we've ridden it West to Globe, AZ where it now ends.

I wonder how many years (decades) since Honda sold belts with their name on them. BTW, good luck finding a dealership that will touch your engine. They don't even want to change tires on them.

You might also try several loops of wire through a ferrite on the power feed. Larger ferrites can often be found on old computer monitor cables (you just have to carve the conformal coating off of the big knot you see in the chord).