1100 jack lift plate adaptor

[tuna boy]

I have the Harbor Freight cycle jack that looks like a fork lift. I have used it and it does work pretty good. I don't like that it lifts the bike by putting the load on the exhaust pipes that are lower than the frame tubes. I want to build a wooden adaptor plate so I can keep the load off the
the pipes. The best option looks like a plate that would lift on the engine sump. Is it OK to lift the bike by the sump? It is a fairly large flat surface. The load would be on a smaller overall surface than the pipe lifting method and would be a little more tippy but it is strapped to the jack the whole time. OK to lift on the sump or not?
Thanks Tuna

 

[ekvh]

A 2x8 works pretty well. Lots of us lift on the headers with no ill effects. For what you're talking you might want a 2x8 to space the headers up and then a larger piece of plywood...??? to fit the forks.

 

[joedrum]

I would not ... it was never made for that and it really is not smart in my view .. whe the frame is right there ... if your going to build something to catch the motor ...might as well build it to catch the frame I my opinion ... but I have to admit ive done it to some degree at times but never for like long period or or anything like that ... around here there is no flat spot period

 

[Joep]

I have lifted my 81 interstate many times by the pipes... they seen to hold up well unless they are severely corroded then they might collapse.. yeah lifting by the frames would be more desired... the clearance on the frame sump and pipes when on jack is not a large one... Maybe make a plywood deck to slip on the lifting arms that would fit inside of pipes and hit the frame?

 

[tuna boy]

I looked at the bike again and picking the bike up by the frame is all but impossible because of the location of the pipes. When lifting with the pipes it looks like there is a lot of load on the exhaust flanges and back on the rear foot peg mounts. I think the jack pad under the sump is a better option.

 

[joedrum]

hmmm well just be carful ... your there we are not ... should post a pic of the jack ... I think yours is different than what I was thinking it was ... is your like one side is not accessible ?...around the edges of the bottom sump has to be the strongest places ...

 

[tuna boy]

My jack is the harbor freight model that comes in from one side of the bike. Think of a fork lift truck, similar to that style of lift. This is not the small roller lift that most use. The sump is flat and the surface area is about the size of a paper plate only rectangular. I keep looking for a spot that would give me a access to the frame tubes but the OEM pipes block all of that. I have lifted in the past over the exhaust pipes without a problem. Maybe I should just keep doing that. It sure looks like that way puts a lot of load on the exhaust flanges/system.

 

[dan filipi]

I would never put force on the exhaust or headers to lift the bike. There are lots of other places to lift from.

 

[mcgovern61]

I confess.......I lift my bike using a car jack under the engine all the time.........

 

[joedrum]

well I have too when taking motor out but not for lifting whole bike and working on it ... some of these oldwing are quite heavy with added stuff on them

 

[dan filipi]

I don't see any problem lifting under the engine, I do it all the time. The engine block aluminum is very strong. I tried taking a sledge hammer to a bad case and it wouldn't even dent.

 

[mcgovern61]

dan filipi » Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:35 am[/url]":1xqqdolw]
I don't see any problem lifting under the engine, I do it all the time. The engine block aluminum is very strong. I tried taking a sledge hammer to a bad case and it wouldn't even dent.

I agree! (Meaning with the engine is very strong)

When we were trying to open up the blown '82 engine, I was using a 5 lb maul and using all I had, we could not even make a dent!! Finally, with the case partially split but two pistons stuck, I gave up and whacked the daylights out of the side to get to the piston. Now, the piston was already broken before we started whacking.


This is what was found inside (look at the hole in the block on the side).

 

[tuna boy]

I cut 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood to fit between the exhaust pipes. The double layer of plywood gives me enough room to clear the pipes. I use cable ties to hold the plywood in place. The contact patch is 9" x 9" so I don't think it will be a problem lifting on the sump. The area is flat and uniform. I will let you know how it works out.

 

[tuna boy]

I just used my new adaptor plate to lift my wing with my jack. I have a plate that covers the entire sump. I noticed right away that the bike is more tippy some side to side but more front to back. When lifting by the pipes you have a bigger side to side contact area and a much bigger front to back contact area . This makes the bike less tippy. I think I am going back to the pipe lift method. P S always strap down you bike to the jack before lifting.

 

[toytender01]

AND YOU KNOW THIS BECAUSE??????????????? :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: