1100 vs 1200

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crowesnest3":2wmpmxnb said:
.........speaking of as things get older things can go bad .... **** I'm going onto 66 this June and still haven't found a good reason to trade myself in for a new one. No doubt there have been some times I'd like someone to direct me to that link that gives me a digital step by step process to build a "old man utlra sound" similiar to the one that will be found in my new "crib" hideaway for shaking down the crud out of those, ah, what do they call those things, ah, oh yea, carburetors! I know for sure there's some "residual chemicals" (?!) from my life back in the 60's ...( ok, my past life!) that are plugging up some of the passages in my cerebral cortex! ... not to mention a little arthritis! Personally, I'm just not so into all this new modern advanced better for you "stuff". I intentionally stayed away from "newer" wings just to avoid "digital" ....... try to answer your I phone with leather gloves on!
..........later............crowe ............ :Egyptian:
66 huh!!! You are as good as they come,DON'T TRADE :nea: ,you'll be losing big time :good:
 
detdrbuzzard":1fa13c8x said:
1060dsl":1fa13c8x said:
detdrbuzzard":1fa13c8x said:
all wings from '83 on got linked brakes and while the 1200 has tall gearing also it go a boost in hp and tq to deal with it. a 1200 aspy is about 20lbs heavier than an1100 aspy so don't strain yourself. the onyl electrical grimlin i know of is the stator, being that these are not new a poorboy kit will solve that issue

Aren't stator problems pretty much the same for 1100's as they were for the 1200's?

And you dont have to buy an aftermarket alternator from poorboy any small one that fits will work, Beaver made us up some nice pully's
not saying you have to get a poorboy kit but you'll need to make your own kit and at 20+ years old its probalyy time fro an alternator kit or a stator, how long do you think those stators will last. trunk and saddlebags are bigger on the 1200 compaired to an 1100.

ya I know I was just being a ***k - just makes me laugh when people think Poorboy invented the alternator conversion (couple of local guys might have something to say there)

Back to the stators - the new ones (I am told) last long enough that you shouldn't have to ever do another. Little (ok a lot) more work but they run quiet and you don't have to stretch out your radiator.
 
I have a Poorboy alternator setup, I installed, it, it worked fine, But now it is on the shelf.

I would rather use the stator. I Dont care for the Poor boy down grade

OEM Stator Lasted 20+ years, new one will do the same.

I dont run so many lights that i can be seen from space.

But if i do (LED's) i will do the relay mod. to remove load off electrical system.
 
westgl":32m8jlmw said:
I have a Poorboy alternator setup, I installed, it, it worked fine, But now it is on the shelf.

I would rather use the stator. I Dont care for the Poor boy down grade

OEM Stator Lasted 20+ years, new one will do the same.

I dont run so many lights that i can be seen from space.

But if i do (LED's) i will do the relay mod. to remove load off electrical system.
I would rather do Led convertion than alternator, prefering to leave bike stock :salute:
 
Another firm believer in reducing the electrical load rather than having an external alternator, which in the past was hard to do.
 
From what I hear the new stators last quite a bit longer. My bike is almost thirty years old if a new stator only lasts 25 more years it will be ok with me. Dont get me wrong there is a place for conversions (middle of the summer is not a time to change stators) . First alternator conversion i seen was in the eary 90's (full sized alternator hanging off the side ) kept the guy riding the rest of the summer that was about ten years before Don invented it.

Sent from my GT-I9100M using Tapatalk 2
 
When i had My poorboy on my totally Stock fully faired 86' GL1200.

It was Noisy, lots of belt noise no matter how the belt was adjusted.

It put a drain on the engines power, and i sacrificed Horse power & gas mileage for more electrical power

My engine during the summer ran hotter probably due to the extra load.

I have a poorboy setup if someone wants to buy it from me.

I bought a Ricks Stator, and it works very well and looks like a quality unit, with heavier gauge windings, and has a much thicker potting on the windings than OEM.
 
I don't know about the longevity of the stators now but if they were higher output I wouldn't run an external alternator.
I personally don't like all that has to be done to make them work. It changes the original bike too much.
Now if someone could come up with a 500, or even 400 watt stator THAT would be somethin!
 
The 86 sei is suppose to come with a 500 watt stator and I often wondered if it would interchange but someone told me it wouldn't. I guess the rear case would have to be larger to make it work. So I opted to go with the external.
 
Rick's Stators will custom build you a High Output Stator

Here is a blurb from their site;

Rick's Motorsport Electrics has been providing stators for over 30 years. Rick's manufacturers new and rebuilds custom stators for motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, off road, street bikes, & snowmobiles.

All rebuilt stators require a core exchange and come with a one year replacement warranty. Most new and rebuilt stators are built to stock specification, but we do offer some high output stator versions as part of the Hot Shot Series so you can get even more electrical power from your machine.

Call us at 603-329-9901 to inquire about a custom rebuild on your old stator.

*Please note that any piece listed as “20-custom” requires you to send your core to us. That is a custom stator rebuild job and we will need your old stator part to rebuild it.

We back our stators with a one year warranty.
Stators come with a wire harness, rubber grommets, and all end connectors for a more tech friendly installation.
Item is bike specific, may vary from image

Site Link;
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/aftermarket-stators
 
westgl":1z0r8zdg said:
Rick's Stators will custom build you a High Output Stator

Here is a blurb from their site;

Rick's Motorsport Electrics has been providing stators for over 30 years. Rick's manufacturers new and rebuilds custom stators for motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, off road, street bikes, & snowmobiles.

All rebuilt stators require a core exchange and come with a one year replacement warranty. Most new and rebuilt stators are built to stock specification, but we do offer some high output stator versions as part of the Hot Shot Series so you can get even more electrical power from your machine.

Call us at 603-329-9901 to inquire about a custom rebuild on your old stator.

*Please note that any piece listed as “20-custom” requires you to send your core to us. That is a custom stator rebuild job and we will need your old stator part to rebuild it.

We back our stators with a one year warranty.
Stators come with a wire harness, rubber grommets, and all end connectors for a more tech friendly installation.
Item is bike specific, may vary from image

Site Link;
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/aftermarket-stators
I believe the rotor is the limiting factor in increasing the 1100 stator output. Something to do with the magnet strength, quantity, or. placement.
 
To bad there is not something in the Honda parts bin that was used on another bike that would mount the same on our bikes
 
Calling them could answer that question,

Or Maybe ask the question if there is a higher output Honda part that could be mounted to our bikes.
 
A friend of mine had one wound at a local shop i forget how much he paid but i recall it was a lot less than OEM he used the bike two years sokd it to a local kid who used it a while untill i bought it for parts.
Finally got around to removing the stator a month ago. Looked like new I saved it for my 1200 just in case.

Sent from my GT-I9100M using Tapatalk 2
 
......... I stopped in at a place that has specialized in rewinding and rebuilding generators, alternator, starters etc for 45 years. The Stator was totally new to them and weren't interested?! Despite the reality of having to pull the engine to replace the stator I still favor replacing it with the best new one I can find rather than having all the extra external moving parts ....... something to get your boot laces caught up in? BUT another reason is and I asked abbout it much earlier and nobody has addressed it yet. Fine you've got this dead stator inside the block, dead cuz the windings or whatever have shorted or fused or whatever, you've still got a mechanical device spinning on bearings inside the block. In my mind I just can't believe leaving the dead stator "spinning" in the block is a good idea! My factless feeling is somewhere along the line that dead piece of metal is going to begin to fall apart and start spitting chunks of dead wire? blown bearings? fried eggs into the block! Just can't be good! OR is this just not any issue at all and is why the poor boy keeps showiing up? ...... excluding the fact that you don't have to pull the engine, JUST pull the entire cooling system which is easier without the "skins" on, fabricate a pully system, a bracket system, alter your wire harness, decide which automotive "generator you're going to use, cut down your cooling fan mounts and seems changing out the fan size to a KAW is poplular and be willing to look at a big old generator hanging and spinningt in front of your left Knee? ....... sorry I think I need a nap! .........Crowe........ :Egyptian:
 
I know what your saying crow and I agree to some extent but until there's a way to run my 4- 50 watt driving lights along with all the stock loads, I'll be running an external.

I've considered the led driving lights but those came along after I did the alternator and I haven't seen the LEDs running at night to compare with incandescent driving lights.
 

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