Wow!
I wish I could find 1200 engine.
I wish I could find 1200 engine.
1200 getting modded to accept ignition drive from cam gear
- Thread starter dan filipi
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OP
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Houston, we have ignition!
First start was surprisingly quick with very little goosing the throttle and no choke was needed.
I need to work on the C5 drive stud. I'm not comfortable with the way it looks.
I'll have one machined. This at least shows it can be done and I could make sure this new to me motor is good.
[video]https://youtu.be/Up0zTJuZZdM[/video]
Time for a beer!
First start was surprisingly quick with very little goosing the throttle and no choke was needed.
I need to work on the C5 drive stud. I'm not comfortable with the way it looks.
I'll have one machined. This at least shows it can be done and I could make sure this new to me motor is good.
[video]https://youtu.be/Up0zTJuZZdM[/video]
Time for a beer!
Sounds really healthy! Way to go, Dan! No problem programming the C5 I suppose...
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No problem at all.[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=113495#p113495:21i04v2a said:
All I changed was crank drive speed to cam speed.
I think your gonna need a new tach...
Very impressive. Great work Dan.
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:good:
Well... at least one thing is for sure Dan, you don't just write it, you do it too.
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It's the farmer blood in me, I can't help it.
That can be a good thing or a bad thing.
That can be a good thing or a bad thing.
OP
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Well I have a story to tell about what I experienced yesterday with this mod but I want to get the rear ignition hooked up while I have the time.
Will post my story later.
Will post my story later.
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Ruh Roh! 
opcorn:
opcorn:
my thoughts to, that dinit have a good ring to it.
Hmmmmmmmm. Inquiring minds yadda, yadda, yadda!
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It's not bad, actually it's sort of entertaining in a sick twisted way.
Definitely a learning experience.
Definitely a learning experience.
Mmmmmmm - sick, twisted entertainment!
My first thoughts...Will the 1200 pulsers work with your original spark units? There will be no advance - mechanical or vacuum. Or are you installing the C5 back there???
My first thoughts...Will the 1200 pulsers work with your original spark units? There will be no advance - mechanical or vacuum. Or are you installing the C5 back there???
Yes Dan... You are a Sick Man :clapping:
opcorn: ~O~
+1...You know what an impatient bunch we are...
+1
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Ok first to answer Steve....
I planned ahead for any problems by installing the best parts from 3- 1100 ignitions on to the rear of this 1200.
It's a bolt on deal with no surprises. Even the 84 output shaft is the same.
On to the story......and why I think there truly are angels among us sometimes keeping us from making bonehead mistakes....
My plan here has been to drive the C5 ignition from the front left belt cover.
Seemed easiest, and it was fairly simple by using some of the spacers used on the 1100 kit.
My first thought was to use the spacers but I short cut it by welding a nut on to the stud at the depth I needed.....
I'm not afraid to admit it was pretty damn ugly but hey, it worked!
This video is the result of that.......and it got the bike running so I could check the engine was good. I put a few miles on it this way.........
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Up0zTJuZZdM[/video]
The obvious wobble wasn't going to fly so I had planned to have a stud machined that would run straight and true.... but being the impatient sumbitch I am and nothing else to think about at work.......I set out to 'set this straight' :mrgreen:
So wondering why a bolt that WAS straight now spins crooked I had an idea.
This worked out really well.
I pulled the spark plugs and I had my wife push the start button while I used a felt tip pen to mark where the 'high' spot was in this stud.
After a few gentle taps it still was not straight so I thought, "hmm strong bolt, need bigger hammer".
A couple gentle yet firm 'love taps' on the end I got it to run like this.......
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jr4dg5W8u0I[/video]
All good right?
Well not quite......
A couple pics of the stud and how I got the spacing I needed for the encoder wheel......
I spun the engine over.....yeah baby so I put the cover and ignition in after applying loc-tite to the nuts thinking I may just have this licked and the first ever 1200 front cover drive was done.
Well surprise surprise, play this next video.....
[video]https://youtu.be/9b3Gjtoau50[/video]
You can imagine what was going through my head......
So I first think through......Ok check wire connections first......all looks good.
Check kill switch......it's ON.
Check +12 volts to ignition....good. Now I'm getting worried.
So I pull the encoder wheel off to check if while rotating it the LED light would come on.
(This is how the C5 is timed at TDC)
Well......it doesn't come on so i'm about to cry....especially after seeing that the spacer had made contact with the inner core of the C5 module......
Though it looks really bad in the pic, it looks pretty minor to the eye but I had no idea where the circuit traces are inside or how sensitive this part is.
Hoping (well actually praying) the programming got wiped out by static or something, I go inside and hook it up to the programmer.
Hmm, LED comes on when hooked up to a 9 volt battery. Interesting.
I go ahead and program and see that the encoder wheel DOES make the LED light come on.
Thinking I just dodged a bullet I go out and hook it to the bike.
Son of a ... :sensored: the LED doesn't come on!
So I'm thinking, could this have caused the C5 to work on 9 volts but not on 12?.....Nah that can't be it so I keep testing around.
I check for 12 volts again......got it.
Here's where I get sooooo lucky!!
Because the belt cover is mounted all around by rubber which prevents a frame ground, I had to run a ground wire to the C5's ground point inside the housing.
So I check for 12 volts between the ignition + lead and the ground wire........ NO GROUND!
So I connect the + wire to the C5 and touch the C5 ground point to the engine....The LED lights up!!
So wondering what the heck, I had ground then didn't.......hmmmm.
I check both ends of the crimp connectors on the ground wire......look fine.
Then I check for voltage from battery + to the bolt, NO ground.
This is one of the bolts that hold the regulator to the frame.....direct frame contact...WTF?
So I loosen the bolt, which was plenty tight, then retighten it......Have ground now!
Rehooked C5 up and all is good!
Evidently there was just enough paint in those threads to stop a ground.
Surprised me, and I know better being an electrician!
So.....I dodged a bullet and I'm now taking this as a sign from above that driving the C5 off the front cover aint such a good idea. Too much margin for error because even a very small movement in the cover is multiplied at the ignition core centering enough to make it rub.....and if I hadn't lost ground, the C5 would be trash.
This is how it's running at the moment on the rear ignition..........
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmuLBCjDQmI&feature=youtu.be[/video]
I'll be having the left cam rear end studded for a drive and use the FI housing I got from steve83 on the head to house the C5.
I planned ahead for any problems by installing the best parts from 3- 1100 ignitions on to the rear of this 1200.
It's a bolt on deal with no surprises. Even the 84 output shaft is the same.
On to the story......and why I think there truly are angels among us sometimes keeping us from making bonehead mistakes....
My plan here has been to drive the C5 ignition from the front left belt cover.
Seemed easiest, and it was fairly simple by using some of the spacers used on the 1100 kit.
My first thought was to use the spacers but I short cut it by welding a nut on to the stud at the depth I needed.....
I'm not afraid to admit it was pretty damn ugly but hey, it worked!
This video is the result of that.......and it got the bike running so I could check the engine was good. I put a few miles on it this way.........
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Up0zTJuZZdM[/video]
The obvious wobble wasn't going to fly so I had planned to have a stud machined that would run straight and true.... but being the impatient sumbitch I am and nothing else to think about at work.......I set out to 'set this straight' :mrgreen:
So wondering why a bolt that WAS straight now spins crooked I had an idea.
This worked out really well.
I pulled the spark plugs and I had my wife push the start button while I used a felt tip pen to mark where the 'high' spot was in this stud.
After a few gentle taps it still was not straight so I thought, "hmm strong bolt, need bigger hammer".
A couple gentle yet firm 'love taps' on the end I got it to run like this.......
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jr4dg5W8u0I[/video]
All good right?
Well not quite......
A couple pics of the stud and how I got the spacing I needed for the encoder wheel......
I spun the engine over.....yeah baby so I put the cover and ignition in after applying loc-tite to the nuts thinking I may just have this licked and the first ever 1200 front cover drive was done.
Well surprise surprise, play this next video.....
[video]https://youtu.be/9b3Gjtoau50[/video]
You can imagine what was going through my head......
So I first think through......Ok check wire connections first......all looks good.
Check kill switch......it's ON.
Check +12 volts to ignition....good. Now I'm getting worried.
So I pull the encoder wheel off to check if while rotating it the LED light would come on.
(This is how the C5 is timed at TDC)
Well......it doesn't come on so i'm about to cry....especially after seeing that the spacer had made contact with the inner core of the C5 module......
Though it looks really bad in the pic, it looks pretty minor to the eye but I had no idea where the circuit traces are inside or how sensitive this part is.
Hoping (well actually praying) the programming got wiped out by static or something, I go inside and hook it up to the programmer.
Hmm, LED comes on when hooked up to a 9 volt battery. Interesting.
I go ahead and program and see that the encoder wheel DOES make the LED light come on.
Thinking I just dodged a bullet I go out and hook it to the bike.
Son of a ... :sensored: the LED doesn't come on!
So I'm thinking, could this have caused the C5 to work on 9 volts but not on 12?.....Nah that can't be it so I keep testing around.
I check for 12 volts again......got it.
Here's where I get sooooo lucky!!
Because the belt cover is mounted all around by rubber which prevents a frame ground, I had to run a ground wire to the C5's ground point inside the housing.
So I check for 12 volts between the ignition + lead and the ground wire........ NO GROUND!
So I connect the + wire to the C5 and touch the C5 ground point to the engine....The LED lights up!!
So wondering what the heck, I had ground then didn't.......hmmmm.
I check both ends of the crimp connectors on the ground wire......look fine.
Then I check for voltage from battery + to the bolt, NO ground.
This is one of the bolts that hold the regulator to the frame.....direct frame contact...WTF?
So I loosen the bolt, which was plenty tight, then retighten it......Have ground now!
Rehooked C5 up and all is good!
Evidently there was just enough paint in those threads to stop a ground.
Surprised me, and I know better being an electrician!
So.....I dodged a bullet and I'm now taking this as a sign from above that driving the C5 off the front cover aint such a good idea. Too much margin for error because even a very small movement in the cover is multiplied at the ignition core centering enough to make it rub.....and if I hadn't lost ground, the C5 would be trash.
This is how it's running at the moment on the rear ignition..........
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmuLBCjDQmI&feature=youtu.be[/video]
I'll be having the left cam rear end studded for a drive and use the FI housing I got from steve83 on the head to house the C5.
