1982 GL1100 hugh RPMs while attempting to upshift

[simbaboy]

Hello All,
Turn signals installed working well. Thanks for all your help.
I went for a ride today-cold Michigan afternoon. I noticed something very crazy: if I had the smallest amount of throttle still on while up shifting the engine RPMs would go up like crazy and once the gear was engaged the bike would lurch forward. The only way to avoid this was to take ALL throttle off, press clutch in all the way, up shift, then apply throttle.
I had not noticed this in earlier rides. On my other bikes I just reduce the throttle a touch, up shift and reapply throttle.

What could cause this? I don't think the clutch is dis-engaging all the way. Sometimes when I try to up shift I can feel a scary chatter in the gear shift lever which forces me not to upshift.

I appreciate your help as always.
Simba

 

[joedrum]

wings are not the what i call good shifters ....seems like all my wings sweet spot where they shift good ..and shifts above and below sweet spot are always a little clunky...i think mostly this is normal ....

i think mostly there is a learning curve the winger has to through to get where your like your part of the clunky trans to smooth it out ....my 79 been like that from day one and is still like that but i know all the rpm now and when to shift depending on how hard im going after it

 

[slabghost]

Yep! What he said. :good:

 

[AApple]

Don't know about the rpms going up so much, but mine also has a "sweet spot" in regards to shift rpms, and the shifts are much better with the engine at full operating temp, too. If it's still a little cool, or cold outside, it takes longer to get to that zone.

 

[dan filipi]

These bikes need shifts with authority, down and up to get them in gear completely.
It took me plenty long to shift smooth and still sometimes I lurch it real bad.

The rpm's revving up like that I'm not sure but I find if anything is out of tune, carbs, ignition, carb sync, shifting is affected quite a bit.

 

[simbaboy]

I was hoping my clutch issue of poor shifts and the bike showing signs of INCOMPLETE disengagement with the clutch lever fully pulled would get better, but things are getting worse.

When I am in first gear at a stop and the clutch fully pulled, the bike still wants to go--- I have to apply brakes. Getting in neutral while the motor is running is impossible. Neutral is found only after the kill switch is applied. And even then the bike does NOT always stay in neutral.

I was hoping the use of MMO and oil changes would fix this, but I think the plates need replacing or as Dan suggested the scavenger pump needs cleaning.

Fixing one issue at a time. Also I need to order a new brake fluid reservoir---please link for 1982 GL1100. Thanks. I am also searching.

Tell me what you think.

Thanks All
Simba

 

[slabghost]

Check your book for clutch adjustment procedures. On my 81 there is an adjustment on the center of the clutch cover.

 

[dan filipi]

It's an easy check if too much oil back there is causing the problem by loosing all of the clutch cover screws and break the seal loose. Have a oil drain pan under it.
Once it's drained screw it back tight. Don't worry about a seal right now, it might leak but not much.

Note that evidently oil is delivered to that back area around the clutch by the primary chain and gears only while moving so idling after draining this oil won't pump oil back there.

Now try shifting while stopped and engine running.
If it's improved go for a ride.
Mine would start shifting very hard both up and down then impossible to get neutral, and the clutch would grab just like your saying within 3 miles. It would shift and go into neutral beautifully before that 3 mile run.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmm neat test dan :mrgreen:

 

[detdrbuzzard]

completely close the throttle leaving it open will cause an increase in rpms when you pull in the clutch lever, it has the same effect as slipping the clutch only you are slipping the clutch with every gear shift

 

[simbaboy]

completely close the throttle leaving it open will cause an increase in rpms when you pull in the clutch lever, it has the same effect as slipping the clutch only you are slipping the clutch with every gear shift

Thanks.
I had not noticed this earlier while riding this bike. I ride the GL1100 the way I ride my other bikes.
I may be wrong but I think the problem stems from the fact that the clutch is not dis-engaging completely.
Thanks All
Simba

 

[detdrbuzzard]

completely close the throttle leaving it open will cause an increase in rpms when you pull in the clutch lever, it has the same effect as slipping the clutch only you are slipping the clutch with every gear shift

Thanks.
I had not noticed this earlier while riding this bike. I ride the GL1100 the way I ride my other bikes.
I may be wrong but I think the problem stems from the fact that the clutch is not dis-engaging completely.
Thanks All
Simba

you are pulling the clutch in which unloads the engine and increaces the rpm because the throttle is open

 

[simbaboy]

completely close the throttle leaving it open will cause an increase in rpms when you pull in the clutch lever, it has the same effect as slipping the clutch only you are slipping the clutch with every gear shift

Thanks.
I had not noticed this earlier while riding this bike. I ride the GL1100 the way I ride my other bikes.
I may be wrong but I think the problem stems from the fact that the clutch is not dis-engaging completely.
Thanks All
Simba

you are pulling the clutch in which unloads the engine and increaces the rpm because the throttle is open

I have so much to learn---You are absolutely right. Today I went for a short ride and did what you suggested: I totally let go of the throttle and sure enough I did not notice any increase in RPMs when pulling in the clutch all the way.

(On my V-Star when I pull in the clutch all the way the bike slows down. I am not noticing this on my GL and that is probably because my clutch is not dis-engaging all the way).

I adjusted the clutch lever a little today to have a little free play. However, the bike would turn off when I would come to a complete stop. What should I do with the clutch cable close to the motor so I can get a little more "movement" to dis-engage the clutch some more?

I am very new to motorcycles in general. I bought my very first bike last year. Riding has now become a passion.

Thanks
Simba

 

[detdrbuzzard]

i'm not quite sure how to adjust the clutch on an 1100 wing, 1200 qnd 1500 clutches are hyd and self adjusting

 

[Retroyz]

As long as there is only a tiny bit of free play in the lever it should be adjusted just fine. It can be adjusted at the lever under the dust cover, 3/8 - 3/4 in at the end of the lever. If the clutch still doesn't work then adjustment is not the problem.

 

[simbaboy]

As long as there is only a tiny bit of free play in the lever it should be adjusted just fine. It can be adjusted at the lever under the dust cover, 3/8 - 3/4 in at the end of the lever. If the clutch still doesn't work then adjustment is not the problem.

I think I need a little more "throw" at the actuator close to the motor--hopefully, then the clutch will disengage completely. I am planning a sea foam/oil change treatment this weekend.

Thanks All
Simba

 

[dan filipi]

The lever at the motor doesn't move much and I can't see any way to make it have more movement.
The cable is a length and the lever pulls what it does.

 

[simbaboy]

The lever at the motor doesn't move much and I can't see any way to make it have more movement.
The cable is a length and the lever pulls what it does.

I came home from work and verified what you just wrote and you all have been trying to tell me! You cannot increase the clutch movement. I thought mine wasn't disengaging because I didn't have enough throw. Yes, I know I am an idiot. But I do learn quick.

Tomorrow, I am planning to do an oil change. But first I would like to drain some oil and put in some sea foam ( I have tried MMO without success in trying to free up my clutch plates). I would appreciate any input. After sea foam I will drive the bike for about 20 miles and change the oil to Mobil One and hope for an improvement in shifting. Maybe, a little voodoo prayer as well.

Two days ago my speedometer became erratic for a while and then totally stopped working. Please help.

Thanks
Major Needy Simba

 

[slabghost]

Check the speedo drive cable. Might be dry, loose, binding, or broken.

 

[simbaboy]

Check the speedo drive cable. Might be dry, loose, binding, or broken.

Thanks, a small project for tomorrow.

Today I changed the oil (2.5 qt and 1 qt ATF) and drove for about 20miles. No real change in shifting.
Early this evening I also added a full qt of Seafoam and drove it for another 20 miles. It is freezing cold here in Michigan. I kept the RPMs around 2K for the most part. No change in shifting, but noticed a benefit already : normally the bike will only start in neutral (otherwise the starter just spins). At a gas station aftr a fill up the bike started without any problems with only the clutch pulled in.

We will see where I am tomorrow. I may go for another ride and do a full oil and filter change.

When to buy some oil at Walmart---I could not find any oil for motorcycles. Punk kid working there says he has never seen mc oil there. I have been buying mc oil there for about 1 yr. I did not wanna argue. I'll just go to Autozone tomorrow and pay an extra buck per quart.

Thanks All
Simba