1983 GL1100A 'Aspencade'

[FlyingKOW]

I have a 1983 Honda GL1100 Aspencade. The other day while riding it, the temperature gauge went almost to the red, yet the engine was not overheating.

I parked the bike on Thursday night. When I put the key in to start it Friday evening, the temperature gauge was half way between cold and hot, yet the engine had not been run in nearly 20 hours.

I started it up and rode about 35 miles, and once again the temperature gauge went to the last LCD segment before the red. But still was not overheated.

Does anyone have any ideas as to where to begin looking; sending unit, wiring, digital gauge,...? Is there a way to test the sending unit? How about the gauge?

The sending unit is part number 37510-MB9-871 and is no longer available from Honda. I have located a brand new one, but due to the cost, I would like to diagnose and test the system because the sending unit is far from cheap.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

The red arrow in the image below indicates where the gauge shows when the engine is cold. After warming up, it runs up to the last segment before the red 'HOT' mark.

Thank you! :thanks:

 

[mwbill37841]

does it have the 7 volt rec to make it work like the 79? mine was acting crazy like that and it was just that 7 volt rec,. evrything works like it should now.

 

[Ansimp]

You could test the sender circuit by substituting resistors to check the calibration of the gauge.

Temperature sender specifications

• Ansimp
• Jun 1, 2013

 

[Ansimp]

The information in the manual may not be suitable for your sender as it may only apply to the standard single pin sender and not the dual pin on the Asplencade.

 

[backlander]

You can test the voltage stabilizer and the gauge by unplugging the temperature sensor and making a jumper to bridge the plug in. Make the jumper where you can disconnect it quickly or you could fry your LCD gauge. Insert the jumper, turn ignition switch on, watch gauge to see if it climbs to HOT, pull the jumper, turn key off, gauge should return to full COLD. You can test the actual sensor the same as you do the thermo switch for the fan,with pot of boiling water and a volt/ohm meter. If the gauge doesn't operate properly during the test, then either the voltage stabilizer that controls the gauge's heater or the gauge itself is faulty. Always check the wiring and connections first, as they are the simplest to do. Good luck.

 

[Ansimp]

I would start with the sender test that Mike suggested and then you would have an idea if it is faulty and if not what the resistance values should be so that you can test the gauge. If we get your values we could hopefully compare it to someone else's working temperature gauge and sender.

 

[FlyingKOW]

I will start by trying to test the sending unit.

After studying the wiring schematic for the 1983 GL1100A Aspencade, I do not see anything indicative of supplying 7 volts to the sending unit or to the digital instrument cluster (meter)!

Coming off the Regulator/Rectifier, I have...

• 3 yellow wires (AC input from the stator);
• 2 red (red/white) wires to the main fuse block (under the left side cover) and on to the battery positive (+) terminal to charge the battery (12 VDC);
• 2 green (ground, or 'earth') wires;
• 1 one black wire that goes to the 'Run' side of the fuse block under the faux tank (12 VDC). This lead also supplies power to the Ignition Switch and the Starter Switch/Kill switch Assembly.

:thanks: to EVERYONE who contributed / contributes!

 

[joedrum]

hmmm aspy have no 7volt regulator ....hmmm that hard to beleave but im sure the smytoms are the same as when 7 volt reg gose out in regular 1100 gauges reading high....even fuel gauge

 

[backlander]

there's not a 7 v reg on the aspy model. The temperature and fuel LCD gauges are controlled by a voltage stablizer, one for each gauge.

 

[Ansimp]

7 volt supply is for analogs gauges and can also be called voltage stabilisers. More than likely the supply voltage for LCD gauges is less than 5 volts.

 

[Ansimp]

Kim looking at the diagram you will have a negative resistive supply to the gauge so the tests that have been suggested will work with your LCD gauges. It would be helpful if someone with a working system could give the readings from the sender at cold and operating temperatures.