1986 Aspencade

Classic Goldwings

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Joined
Jul 23, 2024
Messages
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Location
PA
My Bike Models
1986 Aspencade SE-i Special Edition
Frustration is the word?
Hello everyone and thanks for letting me join you all !
I really need some help. I believe I bought a lame duck motorcycle? A few problems with it but the one I am working on right now is the rear Brake linkage to the master cylinder? it seems like a very piss poor design to me and I cannot find anywhere on the web how the heck it goes back together after i removed the master to rebuild ? I have the master cylinder up in place but cannot for the life of me figure out what keeps the rod/shaft square on the master after hooking back up to rear brake peddle? it keeps dropping down at a slant and will not stay or center up on the master cylinder as it should. I bought the bike with the rear brake problem already in play, figured it would be an easy fix, Boy was I wrong! I did find one schematic that showed the parts but very little else.
Aspencade SE-i
Honda Special Edition
1986
Any help would be fantastic and very much appreciated! Thanks
 
I'm not sure if this will help, but a start...

Rear Brake Clevis.jpg


so you're able to attach this end?

The other end is held to the master cylinder (MC) by a circlip (last photo on this page from FSM)

https://classicgoldwings.com/media/brakes-13-15.31196/

The next page of the FSM (top of page) has a diagram of the MC parts and assembly direction.

https://classicgoldwings.com/media/brakes-13-16.31197/

These last came from the Gallery & Tech Ref
https://classicgoldwings.com/media/

Hope this helps...let us know how it goes.
 
I'm not sure if this will help, but a start...

View attachment 50536

so you're able to attach this end?

The other end is held to the master cylinder (MC) by a circlip (last photo on this page from FSM)

https://classicgoldwings.com/media/brakes-13-15.31196/

The next page of the FSM (top of page) has a diagram of the MC parts and assembly direction.

https://classicgoldwings.com/media/brakes-13-16.31197/

These last came from the Gallery & Tech Ref
https://classicgoldwings.com/media/

Hope this helps...let us know how it goes.
 
Awesome! But do you have a picture by chance of the entire push rod ? It looks the same on the end showing but I think mine is different at the master cylinder end. Thank you!
 
No picture but it looks like the diagram drawing, the dust boot is barley visible in my picture.

The end has a 'knob' that fits into the MC piston. Think of it like a ball socket combination. The end is rounded and the piston is dished so they fit together as they are not in a straight line. Then a little bit from the end is a washer that the circlip holds inside the MC body.

If you use these guys parts list diagram you can see it enlarged from the parts diagram, item #14.

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/rr-brake-master-cyl-85-1200l_bighu0202f9e1501_5cf7.gif

Maybe post a picture of what you have.....
 
I think my set up is a little different than the pic you are showing? Here is my push rod, the dust boot is in my master cylinder not shown in my picture? This is my push rod, cannot figure out what is supposed to keep it aligned with my master cylinder. It keeps dropping down out of alignment after attaching to rear brake pedal. I think i am not seeing something obvious? Lol.
 

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Well that's different....looking at the parts diagram from CMS, I learned something new

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-gl1200s...a-california_model1079/partslist/F++1501.html

The LTD and SEI models have extra parts for those models. The diagram shows the hardware you have assembled to the right hand side as opposed to assemble to the left hand side of the rod. I'm not sure how that would work.

If we presume it's assembled in the proper order, the large flat washer (to the right in picture) will need to go to the inside of the MC. Remove the dustboot and look inside for a circlip or do you have one loose? With dustboot removed and slid over the rod (out of your way, the rod will insert into the MC, then washer, then the circlip fits into the groove inside the MC to hold the flat washer inside of the MC. That's what 'holds' the rod to the MC.

As far as to how its been assembled I'd have to defer to someone that has worked on the Fuel Injected models...calling @Rednaxs60 Maybe he can clarify that assembly (the springs and plates and nuts that are to the right in your picture are not on the carb'd models). That is what I previously had posted was for the Aspencade not the SEI version.

Hope that makes sense...
 
Frustration is the word?
Hello everyone and thanks for letting me join you all !
I really need some help. I believe I bought a lame duck motorcycle? A few problems with it but the one I am working on right now is the rear Brake linkage to the master cylinder? it seems like a very piss poor design to me and I cannot find anywhere on the web how the heck it goes back together after i removed the master to rebuild ? I have the master cylinder up in place but cannot for the life of me figure out what keeps the rod/shaft square on the master after hooking back up to rear brake peddle? it keeps dropping down at a slant and will not stay or center up on the master cylinder as it should. I bought the bike with the rear brake problem already in play, figured it would be an easy fix, Boy was I wrong! I did find one schematic that showed the parts but very little else.
Aspencade SE-i
Honda Special Edition
1986
Any help would be fantastic and very much appreciated! Thanks
Read your thread, here and on the other forum. These bikes are some 38/39 years old, have to expect some issues. First order of business is you need then OEM ServiceManual, the Electrical Troubleshooting manual, and most importantly the Supplement. Without these, you will ask a lot of questions and get a lot of answers/responses.

I've never had the rear master cylinder out. Looked at the fiche and the push rod you attached is what is shown. The c-clip keeps the guts of the MC in place. Will look at mine tomorrow.

The rear MC controls the rear brake and the front right caliper.

These FI bikes are not lame ducks when all the required maintenance, issues are addressed.
 
Finally got it back together! I took everything off the push rod and reassembled . The previous owner had it messed up. The c clip most definitely holds everything in place.I will get the service manual , the electrical manual , but what is the supplement your talking about? Thanks
 
Ok, I finally found time to get the MC brake lines back together. Question now? I know the front and rear brakes work together on this bike. So, When it comes to bleeding them, is it both sets on the front of bike that are bled with the rear? Or, Is it The right front and rear that are bled together? Thanks!
I am a newbie with these Goldwings!
 
This information is in the OEM service manual. The right front and rear brake calipers are linked. To bleed the rear and front right calibers, bleed front right caliper first, then rear.

The left front caliper is bled using the front brake lever.

The left front and rear caliper pistons are the same size, the right caliper pistons are smaller because of the link with the rear brake.

The linked brakes work well because you get front/rear braking using the foot brake, only needing the front brake for the final stopping.
 
Ok, I am back. I know bleeding the brake lines on these Special edition Aspencades are Royal pain in the ass. But for 3 days after work, a total of about 6 - 7 hours of of using vacuum pump ( hand pump ) , emptying the mc reservoir 5 times with the front, 4 times with the back, not letting it empty completely, no air gets in? I still have no pressure on the brake pedal and tons of air still coming through to the pump. I should by this time should have made some kind of progress? Right?
 
Front first, then the rear, with the vac pump.
If this doesen't work, next try
Loosening the bolt on the master cylinder.
Then depress & bleed each master cylinder.
Being very carefull to catch the expelled fluid in a rag.
Hope this helps
 
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Ok, I just don't have the time I need to bring her back to life. She does not run, rear mc is rebuilt but brake lines need bled. Paid $ 2000 for this bike (I was lied to by previous owner). Brand new battery but does not want to turn the engine over? It tries?
Anyway my loss all around.
She is for sale, $1500 or best offer.
Brand new tires front and back. Two Aspencade helmets go too.
Use her for parts or I'd hope a project bike with someone who has the time and patience.
 

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