4 inch pulley anyone?

[dan filipi]

I'm looking into having one or a few of the 4 inch crank pulleys machined.
No doubt I'll get a better price for quantity so anyone interested, do you want a pulley or can you machine it?

This pulley uses a 4 groove serpantine belt and will fit the 1200, 1100 and possibly the 1000 crankshaft.

 

[joedrum]

i have the machining tools to do this but im not sure i can get to anything my stuff is stored in a friends barn waiting for me to get the doghouse done ....but i will see if its possible ....im almost sure its way in the back behind tons of other stuff ive got :Awe:

 

[Tomahawk]

I would be interested the shipping may be the kicker tho

 

[tumunga]

I wouldn't mind taking a crack at putting an alternator on my bike, so count me in as wanting a pulley sir.

 

[detdrbuzzard]

I wouldn't mind taking a crack at putting an alternator on my bike, so count me in as wanting a pulley sir.

me too

 

[mcgovern61]

With all of the new information available about the new r/r that is out there, do we need to have an external alternator if the new r/r will actually help our OEM stator work better or am I reading those posts wrong?

 

[joedrum]

id say your right gerry its what im thinking is the way to go

 

[dan filipi]

With all of the new information available about the new r/r that is out there, do we need to have an external alternator if the new r/r will actually help our OEM stator work better or am I reading those posts wrong?

Well, the full load output is still the same from what I understand.
Once you've reached the 300 watt stator capacity that's it.
For stock lighting loads plus up to the stator capacity I see no reason to ever do an external anyway.
Those that do, want more power for extra lights and toasters or don't want to change out the stator.

 

[mcgovern61]

Thanks Dan! I will not be adding any fancies anytime soon and I am considering the new r/r route.

 

[BigAndrew]

I wouldnt want to know how much a shop would want to custom make them $$$$

 

[dan filipi]

I heard back from the machinist that made mine. He'll make it out of all steel for $140 each and I'll ship it out for $5 so $145 total nationwide.

If your interested send me a PM or email.

 

[fysty-1]

Dan I don't know if you are arware of it or not but Don is now supplying a 4" whith his kit. Also Bill has been making a 4" for quite some time now. That is where I got my 4". Angela :yahoo: arty:

 

[dan filipi]

Oh that's good Angela.
Glad to hear it.
I never had much interest in supplying one anyway.

 

[danf]

Dan is this the pulley you have on your bike..Isn't there a spacer that goes with it..Where would I get one of those...I'm starting to like the idea of 55amp's as opposed to 30 amp's,,,I'm thinking Christmas light's..I gotta get me a welding machine first..

 

[fysty-1]

Dan is this the pulley you have on your bike..Isn't there a spacer that goes with it..Where would I get one of those...I'm starting to like the idea of 55amp's as opposed to 30 amp's,,,I'm thinking Christmas light's..I gotta get me a welding machine first..

LB If you don't have the spacer you can take measurements and just use what ever thickness & quantity that you need with SS Washers. But the pulley I got from Bill was designed not to need a spacer & I believe this is the case with Don's pulleies as well. If you don't feel compfy with washers, then just contact Dod and he will fill you in with what you need. :yahoo: :salute:

 

[danf]

Why thank you Fysty-1....

 

[dan filipi]

Spacers? No mine doesn't use any spacers or stacked washers.
It was engineered from the start to be a one piece unit because stacking washers always seemed so cheesy to me.
It's also keyed to the crank.

 

[danf]

That's what I thought but was unsure, I really like this idea....Very impressive Dan...Thank's for the post...

 

[dan filipi]

Yes it is a very nice pulley that Joe Wiggins drew up and is freely sharing.

The first pulley I put on I used an alternator pulley then scrounged around my junk for a sleeve but still had to drill the center hole to accept the crank bolt diameter.
On that setup I did use washers to space it forward. It took quite a good stack of them.
Once running it appeared to run true but holding a screw driver stationary against the engine while the pulley was spinning I could see it wasn't running completely true.
With that and not feeling comfortable about the pulley spaced so much and no keyway it just didn't pass for me being reliable.
If you haven't seen, here's my first build. https://filipi.com/alternator/alternator/

The bracketry by some opinions is overdone but I went for reliability and totally independent of any outside support, like on the fairing. I didn't want to induce any vibrations into the fairing.

My advice on making that pulley though is another 1/8" should be be added to the collar against the crank where the key slot is. I had to grind the one front cover bolt head flat and smooth out the cover "fins" for clearance. An 1/8" more would eliminate that problem.

 

[fysty-1]

Spacers? No mine doesn't use any spacers or stacked washers.
It was engineered from the start to be a one piece unit because stacking washers always seemed so cheesy to me.
It's also keyed to the crank.

Dan I have seen, from comments made on the forums, that there is a keyway on the crank but I have not ever seen it as all pics I have seen show pulley being mounted to the end of the crank & I have asked the quesion as to " how does the pulley not slip or spin if only bolted to the end of the crank?" It doesn't slip over the crank like the timing belt pullies do? Really confused. Angela :help: :headscratch: :headscratch: