81 1200 Project

[brianinpa]

slabghost » Sun Dec 20, 2015 12:35 pm[/url]":12jxrxgu]
R/S does look a bit tight. Are you sure you have all the spacer in the right places? Once the new tire is in place you'll know better where it needs to be.

Yeah, everything is in correctly:

Close Left

• brianinpa
• Dec 20, 2015

Close Right

• brianinpa
• Dec 20, 2015

I have the same distance from the shock to the tire on both side, so it appears that it is just the fuel tank that is the issue.

 

[joedrum]

yes 1100 tank is big ...im sure it no big deal a hammer wont fix :builder: :hihihi:

 

[Tom_Charlton]

"yes 1100 tank is big ...im sure it no big deal a hammer wont fix"

Joe: Hammer? Real cavemen use rocks.

Have a merry Christmas.

Tom

 

[Omega Man]

Joe is a Modern Caveman.

~O~

 

[brianinpa]

PurpleGL1200I » Sun Dec 20, 2015 7:37 pm[/url]":3d4wbcda]
"yes 1100 tank is big ...im sure it no big deal a hammer wont fix"

Joe: Hammer? Real cavemen use rocks.

Have a merry Christmas.

Tom

:smilie_happy:

A god hammer can fix quite a bit :shock:

 

[rob.lafady]

I would imagine a "god" hammer could fix anything...lol[emoji12]

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

 

[Denver]

Believe there may be some massaging of the frame by the air box, as well, for things to fit :headscratch:

 

[joedrum]

brians going to massage the airbox with SCC induction system ... :builder: :hihihi:

 

[brianinpa]

Denver » Mon Dec 21, 2015 2:21 am[/url]":1kulkclp]
Believe there may be some massaging of the frame by the air box, as well, for things to fit :headscratch:

brians going to massage the airbox with SCC induction system ... :builder: :hihihi:

Yeah, I am not sure how long this motor is going to run with the stock 1200 carbs on it, so the airbox won't be much of an issue.

 

[ekvh]

On my 1000 frame with 1200 motor, the 1200 carbs are a tight squeeze, but they go in. I couldn't get the air box on though. But this is also with the Meanstreak tank which tapers down in the back.

 

[Denver]

Believe the air box MAY fit in backwards, to reduce the amount of metal has to be removed for the stock rack to fit. :headscratch: With a single carb set up good chance might have plenty of room. :yes: Either way good luck! :salute:

 

[brianinpa]

Ho Ho Ho... Tis the season, so I bought myself a present.

https://simpletire.com/multi-mile-165-80 ... Aibm8P8HAQ

One thing I like about the tire that Joe has on his bike is that the edges aren't very sharp. Unfortunately, it appears that that tire is no longer available as new in the 165/80R15 size: anything still out there is left over. If it works on the 1100, well then I know what I am doing on the 1200.

 

[joedrum]

getting interesting .... opcorn:

 

[slabghost]

Looks to have a nice profile. No sharp edged corners to the sidewalls.

 

[dan filipi]

Great price.

 

[brianinpa]

Working on swapping the ignition over today and found a problem.

Most have seen the 1100 Ignition Housing...

20151226 131502

• brianinpa
• Dec 26, 2015

1100 Ignition housing

Well, my version of the C5 requires a spacer ring to be installed...

1100 Ig 2

• brianinpa
• Dec 26, 2015

1100 Ignition with C5 Ring

And then the Ignition module...

1100 C5

• brianinpa
• Dec 26, 2015

1100 Ignition with C5

The problem is the inside of the 1200 Ignition housing is a bit different...

1200 Ig

• brianinpa
• Dec 26, 2015

1200 Ignition Housing

There is no way for the spacer ring fit inside the ignition housing...

1200 Ig 2

• brianinpa
• Dec 26, 2015

1200 Ignition with C5 Ring

So the C5 Ignition Module will not fit correctly.

1200 C5

• brianinpa
• Dec 26, 2015

1200 Ignition with C5

As far as I know, Paul never made a spacer specifically for the backside of the 1200, so the best solution (as I see it) is putting the 1100 ignition housing on the back of the 1200 motor. It does fit and the bolt holes match, but here is the problem. How do I get the vacuum chamber off of the ignition housing? I want to get rid of that bee-hive, but I am not sure if it is as simple as removing the "pin" on the side of the ignition housing and then pulling the vacuum chamber off.

 

[slabghost]

Button under the canister is a screw. Just cut a slot in it and unscrew it to pull the canister. You'll need some sort of plug to fill the hole.

 

[joedrum]

the housing and all will switch over completely ive done it ....just be careful with that pin honda made to fall out instantly with its sloppy fit on the shaft drive ...seems to me you can leave the vac housing or take it out it all fits ...up to you brian on that opcorn:

 

[brianinpa]

the housing and all will switch over completely ive done it ....just be careful with that pin honda made to fall out instantly with its sloppy fit on the shaft drive ...seems to me you can leave the vac housing or take it out it all fits ...up to you brian on that opcorn:

It's got to go!!!! I don't like the look and it makes for a tight fit getting the motor in and out, so I am making it easy on myself.

slabghost » Sat Dec 26, 2015 1:48 pm[/url]":1gwif2wc]
Button under the canister is a screw. Just cut a slot in it and unscrew it to pull the canister. You'll need some sort of plug to fill the hole.

This is why I asked... I was thinking it was a pressed in pin. Now I have an over-sized screw to hold in a plug which I am going to go find now...

 

[brianinpa]

My birthday present arrived one day early...

I am always Leary when buying things simply by a picture on the internet so I was concerned about the edges on this tire. I was a little surprised when the tire arrived it actually looks pretty close to the internet picture.

Tire

• brianinpa
• Dec 29, 2015

165/80R-15 Classics All Season

When I inflate the tire, the edges should be pretty smooth.