'83 GL1100 Aspencade getting back on the road

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BIGmackie

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Jan 11, 2011
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Location
Oak Harbor, Wa
Since I posted what was essentially the beginning of my build thread in the new members forum I'll just continue it here.

Read the beginning of this story here:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1612

So, I've been chasing gremlins on this since I got it to Washington.

First I'll start with the thing that I'm most proud of, but was the least of my problems, the gauge cluster.

Anyone familiar with the '83 Aspencade knows that it was the first model to kick-off the LED dashboard. Mine has never worked properly. Since the '83 Aspy was the only bike to use this particular cluster, it’s a pretty rare thing to find and they're expensive when they do show up. Analog gauges are much more common, so I opted to adapt one to fit my bike. To the best of my knowledge I'm the only one to ever do this. If anyone else here has, I salute you; it's the biggest nightmare on earth. I spent the better part of an entire weekend with a test light, ohm meter, and wiring diagram for the '83 aspencade (boy-oh-boy do I wish I had a color copy) and the '81 Interstate. After drawing out my own wiring diagram on a blank piece of newsprint in jumbo-size I was able to figure everything out. I even used the connectors from my old '83 LED dash to splice it all together, didn't even need solder. The best news is that everything works the way that it was designed to and I didn't blow anything up or catch myself on fire! Put one in the win box.

That was a cosmetic fix, and a welcome break from all the mechanical gremlins that I have been running around with. If you read my other post, I mentioned that I pulled the carbs after bringing her out of storage. All I did was clean out the passages and make sure that everything looked pretty good. When I bought the bike, the PO said he had the carbs rebuilt by a professional. It appears that the carbs had been rebuit as all the gaskets and rubber is brand new and looks great. I really didn't have any reason to distrust him. I should have known better...
All last week I was preparing to sync the carbs because I knew it needed to be done and I was interested in doing it. In preparation for it, I was fiddling around with the bike and kept getting a horribly loud backfire out the exhaust, my neighbors even called the cops on me. This got me doing some research and I came to the conclusion that I needed to pull the carbs off and check out the adjustments. So that's what I did this weekend.

Here's a look at the float bowl levels:

Before:


After:


The measurement at the highest point of the float was 26mm. Honda recommends 15.5mm for the '83 GL1100A. It was over 30mm at the lowest point! It looks like whoever rebuilt the carbs may have put new floats on without adjusting them at all.
The needle and jets looked great by the way. And all the yellowing isn’t vanish, it’s from my cell phone’s flash.

Next was the Pilot screw adjustment (no pics, sorry). The Honda recommendation is 3 turns out for 82 and 83's. Mine were turned all the way in! I’m thinking that the "professional" who rebuilt my carbs was not really a pro at all. It’s apparent that they have been re-done, but not at all properly.

After investigating all this (and readjusting the valves) I got her back together and she started up and started purring like a kitten; a kitten with a really fast idle, since it was idling at about 3000 with full choke on.
I got her warmed up, readjusted the idle and finally sync'd my carbs. I gotta say they're probably as close to perfectly synced as any carbs have been ever. It took me about three try's to finally get it where I like, but now I'm super happy. She'll idle at about 950, but likes it better at 1000 rpm; has a lot of primary chain noise in low RPM, but no more than what I have discovered is normal; and has a ton of power now, so much more than before I tweaked with the carbs. I did notice occasionally it would "cough" out the exhaust, nothing loud and only on deceleration. I'm assuming this is a product of running a bit rich, and maybe I need to further adjust my pilot screws?

Anyway, I'm revved up that I was able to finally get this thing to run well. It's NEVER started this easily or run this well. More to come...
 
try running ATF automatic transmission fuid ....about 8oz per tank this will clean things up even more and it will run better ....personaly i do it all the time ....when i pulled the carbs off the mongruel they were cleaner than when they were rebuilt ....i was expecting them to look good but i was still shocked as they were as clean as a new penny everywhere .....it will keep all the new rubber new .... :mrgreen:
 
Well done Bigmackie, on both counts!

I've been through my carbs every which way from Sunday and I still get an occasional pop out the exhaust.
The rack needs to come off again because I'm sure #2 is flooding.
Your success has given me encouragement!

Keep up the good work, riding season soon.
 
:clapping: :good: :clapping:
Congrats on the jobs well done, Bigmackie!! And thanks for sharing, and giving other hope! :beg:
 
joedrum":21kiq0hq said:
try running ATF automatic transmission fuid ....about 8oz per tank this will clean things up even more and it will run better ...
You're a DAMN GENIUS! I've been putting ATF in fuel injected engines for years to clean injectors but never thought about it for cleaning carbs. I'm gonna try this!

dan filipi":21kiq0hq said:
The rack needs to come off again because I'm sure #2 is flooding.
How can you be so sure of this? What's the fix? I'm all ears and you've got me at the edge of my seat!!!

Riding season is fast approaching, I want to be on the road by the end of March, if not earlier. Lot's of work to do!
 
BIGmackie":35rbzcp3 said:
joedrum":35rbzcp3 said:
try running ATF automatic transmission fuid ....about 8oz per tank this will clean things up even more and it will run better ...
You're a DAMN GENIUS! I've been putting ATF in fuel injected engines for years to clean injectors but never thought about it for cleaning carbs. I'm gonna try this!

dan filipi":35rbzcp3 said:
The rack needs to come off again because I'm sure #2 is flooding.
How can you be so sure of this? What's the fix? I'm all ears and you've got me at the edge of my seat!!!

Riding season is fast approaching, I want to be on the road by the end of March, if not earlier. Lot's of work to do!
Dan meant his #2 carb is flooding. Probably a puddle of fuel under it. Fix is either slow the fuel pump. He's running an electric now. Or cleaning the float needle and seat.
BTW if you go back and adjust the air/fuel mix screws. You will need to resynchronise.
 
slabghost":1t1hpdow said:
Dan meant his #2 carb is flooding. Probably a puddle of fuel under it. Fix is either slow the fuel pump. He's running an electric now. Or cleaning the float needle and seat.
BTW if you go back and adjust the air/fuel mix screws. You will need to resynchronise.

Oops, I missed that :oops: I thought this forum was all about ME!

I do know that a re-sync is necessary after adjusting the air/ fuel screws which is the main reason I'm not in any hurry to do it. I do have to say, after getting to know my manometer the carb sync isn't such a difficult process. And now that I've got it fine tuning is a breeze!

I really wish I could devote more time to the 'wing project this week, but I'm getting surgery on my eyes (elective) which is going to keep my away from the details. Probably be good by this weekend and I'm going try performing a "facelift"

More to come!
 
Got an kickass new set of eyes on thursday and work gave me friday off, so I had time to play. Weekends are FUN!

First off baby needed a nose job. This is what I've been working with, after swaping the digital dash out I needed to do something about the fact that the analog stuff didn't actually fit... So I took steps to make things awesome!

Here's what I started with


notice how badass my jimmy rigging is! I needed to do something to keep everything in place while I was messing with wires.
Here's a closeup on my bracketry. Please note that I painted the brackets to make myself feel better while everything was in limbo


Since all this is really ghetto, I took the upper tripleclamp off of an '81 GL1100 and put it on my '83.
Here's the in-between shot lookin' like a hot mess!


I spent a quite few minutes polishing this old penny to look new again, mostly with my bench grinder and wire wheel. Since I have new eyes I made sure to wear the appropriate eye protection:


It's also like 30 degrees outside, hence the beanie. I don't usually look like a serial rapist.

Here's the "after" shot:


One more:


Still need to sort out the air suspension now that their isn't anything to mount it to. I've got a plan for it, but I need to finish painting the shelter so I can play with my options there...
I'd also like to point out my wicked awesome workbench in the background of that picture. Work was getting rid of those cabinets, so I made something useful out of them.

I also finally got around to putting my rear fender back together and did the detail work on my taillight. Ignore the saddlebags. I haven't even started working on them...
Here's the finished pic:




While I've got this pic up does anyone have the bumper that attached the right side saddlebag frame to the left? I'm missing it and have no clue where to find one...

(you can click on any of the pics for a bigger version if desired.)

More later...
 
Lookin GUD! :clapping: :clapping:
I think you're looking for the rear bumper, correct?
These should be available...try e-bay? OR post in the "For Sale/Wanted" here. :eek:k:
bump.jpg
 
Flinx":1c8xt1vc said:

Nope, not that one.

Here's what I'm looking for (stole these from ebay):





And while I'm at it, can anyone identify these brackets? When I got this beast the fairing was off and all the pieces were scattered to the winds, so I've had to figure out where a lot of things go all on my own. Also been buying a lot of nuts 'n bolts that went missing...

What's this?



Anyone who can help, thanks in advance!
 
This is what progress looks like!

Lots and lots of rubbing compound and a little bit of elbow grease, I've got a painted gas tank! Funny thing about all this is, I'm not a fan of black bikes...



There's 2 important things to notice in this picture one is the awesome colorization on my exhaust, one of my favorite things. Second thing is my fridge in the garage, no garage is complete without a beer fridge.
 
I had an interesting occurrence tonight.

Just after taking that last picture, in an effort to impress my wife/ annoy my neighbors, I fired the wing up.

Normal starting procedure: gas on, full choke, no throttle, push start button, engine fires in about 1 1/2 seconds. Nothing unusual there, here's the weird part; I am counting it a victory but who knows... There's wasn't the usual popping out the exhaust after revving the engine (I'm guessing the accelerator pump), but the idle wouldn't settle down below about 1500 rpm (and that was after adjusting the idle screw, it was at about 2500 rpm before I adjusted it). I'm calling it a victory because that popping was REALLY getting on my nerves, but the idle increasing like that is kinda odd. Prior to tonight it would sit nicely at about 1000 rpm, but not tonight.

I haven't changed anything, the only variable I can think of is air temp. It was just above freezing when I did the carb sync and set the idle, tonight it's in the mid 40's.

I'm not really looking for answers here, just expanding on my post. If anyone does have any answers/ similar experiences though I'm all ears!
 
Temp does make a difference when syncing! The carbs should only be synced with a fully warmed engine. Set it up when cold and you will get a higher idle when warm.
 
mcgovern61":1bl3bxr7 said:
Temp does make a difference when syncing! The carbs should only be synced with a fully warmed engine. Set it up when cold and you will get a higher idle when warm.

I guess I should clarify. When I did the sync, that was also the day that I readjusted my pilot screws and I did a full/ normal warmup procedure prior to performing the sync. I also did the sync with a fan blowing on the front of the engine per Randakks suggestion. Outside air temp was probably between 34 - 36 degrees.

Last night when I fired it up, with full choke and it almost immediatly began idling fast, maybe 3000 - 3500 rpm. So I put it to half choke, which brought the idle down to approx. 2500rpm, but it slowly crept back up to about 3000 rpm over the space of about 30 sec. I "bliped" the throttle a few times thinking that maybe something was sticking in the linkage and this made no difference in the idle. As soon as I noticed some needle creep in the temp gauge I pulled the choke to full off and the idle dropped from 2500 - 2700 rpm to maybe 2300 rpm. Not a huge difference. After another minute or two warming up and a few more throttle blips while carefully looking at the linkage/ cables confirming nothing was sticking, I attempted to readjust the idle and was only able to get it down to the 1500 rpm range before I was told to "Knock it off before the neighbors hate us!" It was 10pm, can't really blame my wife for yelling at me. Outside air temp last night was about 43-44 degrees.

I get off work a little earlier today, so I won't be out in the garage until the dead of night. Hopefully I'll be find the culprit and/ or get the idle adjusted back to a happy place.
 

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