'83 GL1100 restoration

[Steve83]

Nice! Very, very nice!

 

[drhicks123]

It's been a while since I last posted and I'm taking all this great advice to heart. So far I've gone ahead and have rebuilt the carbs, (Wasn't that bad), checked the tank (no rust), adjusted the valves, pulled the back wheel off to check the bearings, the inner had spun in the hub. I had started to have it bored and sleeved and instead decided to use a .005 shim and high strength Loctite. I know some of you would probably object but the repair actually worked out pretty well and I fell like I've preserved the strength of the bearing hub. The .005 shim worked out to be a perfect fit. I'll re-assemble tomorrow. The body parts have been painted a black metal flake. I've also polished and clear coated most of the aluminum covers. I've still got a lot of things to do before I consider it road ready but it's getting closer. The timing belt, water pump, brakes and front wheel/forks are next.

 

[drhicks123]

drhicks123 » Thu Jun 20, 2013 9:32 pm[/url]":24fvfcph]It's been a while since I last posted and I'm taking all this great advice to heart. So far I've gone ahead and have rebuilt the carbs, (Wasn't that bad), checked the tank (no rust), adjusted the valves, pulled the back wheel off to check the bearings, the inner had spun in the hub. I had started to have it bored and sleeved and instead decided to use a .005 shim and high strength Loctite. I know some of you would probably object but the repair actually worked out pretty well and I fell like I've preserved the strength of the bearing hub. The .005 shim worked out to be a perfect fit. I'll re-assemble tomorrow. The body parts have been painted a black metal flake. I've also polished and clear coated most of the aluminum covers. I've still got a lot of things to do before I consider it road ready but it's getting closer. The timing belt, water pump, brakes and front wheel/forks are next.

"You may say I'm a dreamer but I'm not the only one"

 

[backlander]

Beautiful work. Very nicely done.

 

[OldWrench]

Wow there is a lot of good advice here. I would pull the rear wheel, lube the gears, replace the gear lube. You said the tires are in great shape, how old are they?

 

[drhicks123]

Yes, I'm doing all the preventative maintenance, gear lube too (synthetic). The tires look to be fairly new. I've also got bearings for the front wheel as well.

 

[Steve83]

I hope the shims work in your rear wheel! I tried the same on mine, but the hub was weakened, and just stretched more, so I got a good used rim on eBay.

 

[drhicks123]

Did you use the high strength Loctite? A friend of mine tells me he's used this material in the past to repair industrial gear reducers and it performed well. I guess we'll see.
I'll re-check the wheel play in a few months to see how it's holding up...
I understand this is a common problem with the older Goldwings.

 

[Steve83]

'83 was the first year for these alloy wheels, and some had weak hubs. I think they fixed the problem in late '84.

 

[carl62cycles]

drhicks123 » Thu Jun 20, 2013 7:32 pm[/url]":32jqurwl]It's been a while since I last posted and I'm taking all this great advice to heart. So far I've gone ahead and have rebuilt the carbs, (Wasn't that bad), checked the tank (no rust), adjusted the valves, pulled the back wheel off to check the bearings, the inner had spun in the hub. I had started to have it bored and sleeved and instead decided to use a .005 shim and high strength Loctite. I know some of you would probably object but the repair actually worked out pretty well and I fell like I've preserved the strength of the bearing hub. The .005 shim worked out to be a perfect fit. I'll re-assemble tomorrow. The body parts have been painted a black metal flake. I've also polished and clear coated most of the aluminum covers. I've still got a lot of things to do before I consider it road ready but it's getting closer. The timing belt, water pump, brakes and front wheel/forks are next.

I have glued bearings on motorcycles before and seem to hold pretty tight.Remember using them on wheel hubs also.the thing is to let the material dry minimun 24hs would be great.they cure when prived of oxygen (air).

 

[carl62cycles]

Steve83 » Fri Jun 21, 2013 8:46 pm[/url]":ahsuf9p9]'83 was the first year for these alloy wheels, and some had weak hubs. I think they fixed the problem in late '84.

I believe they also changed the rim to smaller sizes that year (84).

 

[drhicks123]

Got is re-assembled. Now working on the front wheel/bearings.

 

[Steve83]

opcorn: opcorn: opcorn: :hi:

 

[drhicks123]

Just started the process of changing the timing belts. I've made the mistake of allowing the two pulleys to rotate before I figured out how to secure them as I'm installing the new belts. I can now line up T1 and the two pulley marks with UP facing up and then rotate the crankshaft two revolutions and it all lines back up again but I'm concerned that the timing could be 180 degrees out....
If I rotate the crankshaft one revolution, the UP marks point down with T1 showing.
Does someone out there know which cylinder should be at TDC so that I can verify I'm correct?
As I rotate the crankshaft, there is no binding, just valve spring compression but I want to be sure.
Thanks in advance for your help! :thanks:

 

[dan filipi]

It's timed 180 degrees off.
UP must be UP when crank is on T-1.

 

[dan filipi]

Go slow fixing this. Easy to bend valves if rushing through and missing a step.

You need to rotate the engine with the belts on to just before T-1 comes up.
I suggest bringing it to T-1 then rotate the crank backward while the T-1 mark goes down in the window and T-1 is out of sight in the window. Now your just off top dead center and giving the valve room to open.

Oh, loosen all the valve adjusters full loose first like the adjuster is going to fall out from the threads.

Once you have the crank at that point, take the belts off.
Now rotate both cams so Up is UP and cam timing marks are lined up.

Now rotate crank to T-1 and put the belts on.

 

[slabghost]

I think crank does turn twice to turn cam pullies once. I don't have my book at the moment though.

 

[joedrum]

yes dan but its a two to one deal ...if the up marks are up on T1 ....you can rotate the motor crank one time to T1 agan and both up marks point down this is all right .... its 180 off when one pulley is up and the other is down ...so your good to go it sounds to me

 

[slabghost]

As long as the right piston is on compression stroke at T1.

 

[drhicks123]

Yes, the crank does rotate twice to every rotation of the cams. I'd like to think I'm good to go but I'd like to double check to see for sure.
I would think that one of the cylinders should be in TDC...