83 gl1100 starter solenoid

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wilcoy02

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I have searched several places with no luck. I know it is out there as I was in this boat before.

My bike just clicks when I hit the start button. I had just gotten rid of the dog bone and put a fuse in it's place.

Are the ten buck solenoids on flee bay any good?
Where can I find a decent one that will work?
 
does the bike start if you jump the solenoid? If so I'd try the one on ebay. I'm on my second new solenoid for my truck in less than a year. Bought at autozone.
 
I got a fleabay solenoid with an auto fuse and it is working great! Smack your solenoid with hammer and try it again. Might get another start out of it. (It has worked for me before I got my new one.)
 
I want to put Ferd solenoid on my 1100, but don't know how to wire in the 4 wire connector.....how you do dat, Dan? :headscratch:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187765#p187765:2sqbljtz said:
AApple » 19 minutes ago[/url]":2sqbljtz]
I want to put Ferd solenoid on my 1100, but don't know how to wire in the 4 wire connector.....how you do dat, Dan? :headscratch:
The 2 thinner wires (I think) go to the solenoid. I piggybacked off of them.
Ford solenoid I used uses the body as ground so it has to be insulated from ground. I bolted it to the plastic fender well.
 
The $10 solenoids on eBay work fine, had mine on for 2 or 3 years now.

If yours is clicking it means the control wiring and solenoid are actually doing their job, now that's not to say that the power from the battery to the starter is passing through it when it does click.

You should, as suggested, by-pass it and see if the starter works to confirm that, but if you do need a solenoid the ones on eBay are fine.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187753#p187753:2itlbjk1 said:
wilcoy02 » March 6th, 2017, 7:46 pm[/url]":2itlbjk1]
I have searched several places with no luck. I know it is out there as I was in this boat before.

My bike just clicks when I hit the start button. I had just gotten rid of the dog bone and put a fuse in it's place.

Are the ten buck solenoids on flee bay any good?
Where can I find a decent one that will work?

I have one of these installed it only been a couple of months and I've been stressing it since I'm in the middle of my bring back to life project and it has hold on there!
 
Been there, have the skinned knuckles to remember it.

1. Be sure to pull your starter and clean,clean,clean, the ground point behind the mounting bolt.
2. figure out which two wires are the dogbone fuse on the four-wire plug. Use those to install a new blade-type fuse holder to eliminate the dogbone thingy.
3. Use the other two wires to actuate any solenoid you want. Pick one that powers a starter motor. I used a spare solenoid off a '78 CB750. cleaned it up, attached the wires according to the manual for the 750. If I recall correctly, the colors were the same as the '83 Goldwing.

4. Wait for the new/used part to fail. I'm getting tired of waiting, It's been 2 years.
 
There is a discussion on the Saunders site right now about replacing the dog bone fuse with circuit breakers and worth reading. You have already done that but it bears looking at. The end of the matter is that the dog bone fuse was designed by Honda engineers to work with the 1100, have very few failures, are at the correct amperage and there are very few occasions when the full 50 amps are ever challenged as it feeds several 10, 20 amp fuses not always used at the same time.

I did have a dog bone failure on a previous 1100 but it was cracked, not blown. I keep a spare on the bike.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/636970-dog-bone-replacement.html
 
Guys. I don't get it? Automotive fuses are where it's at now. They are the way to go.

My old bike is all automotive fuses.

They are available everywhere. You can pick em up in any Mom and Pop store, they cost pennies and a whole entire change out fits in a dime bag.

All I know is, if I can do it, so can anyone else.
 
Whatever works. Can make it as complex or as simple as ya want.
Having had the blade fuse holders with the pigtail wire on each end overheat and melt on more than one occasion, I wired in a 30 amp circuit breaker and haven't had a bit of trouble. I do like the solenoid Apple got that has a blade fuse built into where the dogbone fuse would be though.
 
Many Honda solenoids had the built in blade fuse. With high current (15a +) I prefer ceramic fuse holders or the new maxi blade fuses that take up to 60a fuses. I am happy with my link fuse replacement as the first one lasted 34 years on the Rats Nest. :yes:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187766#p187766 said:
dan filipi":1by5y07t]
Ford solenoid I used uses the body as ground so it has to be insulated from ground. I bolted it to the plastic fender well.

Whu???? :headscratch:

I know some(mostly older versions) Ferd sillynoids have grounded bodies, and those will not work unless the sillynoid IS grounded to the frame/body... and I've seen it posted here several times about NOT bolting the Ferd sillynoid to the frame when used on our bikes, and that is confusing the hell outta me. Can you s'plain the reasoning for NOT having the actual sillynoid grounded to the frame? What am I missing here? :headscratch:
 
Ah HA! I see, say the blind man. :ahem:
That makes sense now. Dint realize the start switch controlled the ground side.....just assumed it was voltage energized. Now I know. :thanks:
 
No you where right, the starter button does not control a ground, the starter button sends a hot from the ignition switch to the control circuit of the solenoid, that's what makes it click, (Magnetically lifting the relay).

The switched ground is then sent to the starter.
 

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