86-1200 rattle sound 5th gear 55mph

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Mine sounded like that while running.

BUT!!! it sounded worse on start up and 4 second after start up it would sound like you video.

and if you give it full throttle under a good load, (not lugging it) it would make some noise also.

It runs Great now, and sounds soooo good, smooth and No Noise other than the typical Goldwing music
 
I was surprised that the check valve in the filter Bolt, and that it was not working properly was causing me some big problems.

I am glad to have that problem behind me
 
The check valve in the filter bolt on mine was actually missing, on my 83' GL1100, it probably ended up inside the engine.

My GL1200 was the one that was frozen.
 
This was posted by GLhonda on goldwingfacts site.

He had a motorcycle repair business, i think in Washington state, then moved about 2 miles from my house.

This was his reply
Boy, what a lot of work! I pretty much agree to run it and check it periodically. I also agree that no oil pressure for 4sec and an abnormal noise at startup is reason for concern. I know you've pulled and checked your oil filter, but did you inspect the check valve in the oil filter cannister bolt? I don't know what the symptoms would be, but there may be a possibility of oil bypassing the filter, extending the time it takes to fill the cannister if the valve where hung open? You've done everything else.
 
83' GL1100 Maintenance item,

I Also cleaned the oil pick up strainer screen a couple times (it was Full both times) as i had some clutch material in the screen, when i removed the material I put a magnet through the material to see if there was any metal in it. It was clear of metal both times.

GL1200 does Not have a screen that can be easily taken out and cleaned, only 1100 & 1000 have this.
 
westgl":etp3o5v3 said:
I was surprised that the check valve in the filter Bolt, and that it was not working properly was causing me some big problems.

I am glad to have that problem behind me

I put a stronger spring in mine when I was doing the stator and head gaskets last summer. So far, no problems for me. :beg:
 
Guys:
I'm getting the rattle noise on the Enterprise at all times. Seems like it's louder on the left side. I've checked the valve intake and exhaust clearance and they are ok. When she reach the 55mph and above you can barely heard or practically no rattle noise. I took a video but I notice that the noise on the video is LOUDER than it really is.

Blessings.
 
Hey Jungo,

Did you check with scotty?

Nice looking bike, that noise is a little loud on the video, though.

with the collaboration of this site, you may just get that fixed.
 
Jungo":58tasc5q said:
I know is hard to tell. There's a huge difference between video and reality. This video can confuse people. :headscratch:
It might be easier if you have the camera low and in front of you away from wind noise. The camera should be able to pick up the noise well enough for us to hear regardless of which side it is on. Listen on this video for an example:

 
hmmm, I pulled the filter bolt.

This is what I know and what I'm trying to figure out.

A backflow is not built into it's design. That is certain.

Measuring where the holes sit in relation to the filter cartridge, I see no way in it's design oil pressure would drop if the bypass valve is defective.
If the oil filter is clogged then yes pressure would drop but only to the point the bypass function would then kick in. This pressure is unknown.

In the front cover picture below, oil directly from the oil pump enters the filter housing at the red arrow.
Passes through the filter, through the filter bolt holes, then into the threaded hole at the blue arrow to supply oil to the engine and pressure gauge/switch port.


So.....the oil pressure is read AFTER the filter.

Ok. Here's a pic of the filter bolt.


I've assembled the filter onto the front engine cover with the bolt threaded into the front cover only as far as it actually threads in when the filter cover is on:



The holes in the bolt are the bypass holes.
There are 4 of them.

In this next picture, the holes at the red arrows are inside the filter cartridge with no valving of any kind in the oil path leading to the threaded hole on the left then into the engine. Therefore, no backflow device.


If I'm wrong on any of this so far its probably because I'm distracted and have to run out to do something and will finish this post later, but at this point I see no way the knocking described could be related to the filter bolt.
 
I went and took pics of the spring and washer in place:



The spring and washer have nothing to do with the bypass function because the bypass function is a spring and valve inside the bolt.

It occurred to me then to have a look what would happen if the spring and washer weren't in there like I've read about some guys not having. The washer in particular gets lost from being thrown away with the filter because it sticks to the filter.

In this picture, the red arrows show 2 holes, there are 2 more holes in line on the other side making 4 holes total in that line.
The blue arrow shows 1 hole, there is another on the other side of the bolt making 2 holes on this line.


I took careful measurements of the bolt, housing, filter, and how it all sits on the front engine when it's together.
It's hard to see in this picture but if the spring isn't in place then the rubber seal on the filter could block the 4 inline holes, allowing oil to pass through ONLY 2 holes.
I say could because it would depend on where the cartridge is sitting on the bolt because without the spring, the cartridge is free to move forward or back on the bolt.


incidentally, the washer makes VERY little difference in where the filter sits and it has nothing to do with the pressure bypass, neither does the spring.

Back to the bypass valve......

I put a air nozzle on one of the holes (on the bolt head end, the bypass holes) and covered the others with my fingers and found the bypass will open at about 20 lbs pressure and is sealed air tight below that pressure.
This is differential pressure. Meaning the pressure would have to be 20 lbs higher outside the filter than inside the filter.
I don't know what this equates to in real use. Could only guess that there is rarely 20 lb.+ difference unless the filter is badly clogged.

By taking a close look at the entire assembly I have found:

1. The filter spring is important. It keeps the oil supply holes feeding the oil to the engine fully open.
2. The washer......not important. It simply serves as a "seat" for the spring against the filter cartridge seal.
3. Neither the washer nor spring have anything to do with bypass. Bypass is done by a valve and spring inside the bolt.
4. There is NO part in this assembly to prevent oil from draining out of the filter when the engine is off. When I pulled the cover, about 1/2 the filter housings worth drained out.


Maybe something more will come to me but I still cannot see how any kind of malfunction in any of these parts (except a clogged filter) could cause engine knocking noises.
 

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